Well, all hopes of me turboing my car just went down the god damn drain. It all started off with me re-doing my timing belt as there was quite a bit of slack in it and it felt like my intake cam advanced a tooth. When i pulled the valve cover off and lined the crank up at TDC, low and behold i was right... intake cam advanced 1 tooth, so i undid the tensioner, re-set my cam timing, set my crank at TDC then put the belt back on. I left my distributor straight up and down.

When i started the car afterwards it ran like dick... barely struggeling past 3000rpm and after it started to warm up the car had absolutely NO power. So i kept re-doing the timing making sure the crank was at TDC, the distrib was straight up and down, and cams were lined up properly.

then when i started it, it bogged horribly, so i started playing with the distrib. It became drivable when the distrib was set all the way back in the "advance" mode. Then i drove it down the street and low and behold it started get sluggish, so i pulled the car back in the garage. and it jsut shut off. The car wouldn't start ever.

I purchased a new distributor thinking the fact that my ground came off before blew the ignitor. That didn't do ****. I bought new plugs, didn't do ****. So now i take those new plugs out and they are soaked in gas/oil (not sure which, smells like gas has the color of oil.

HERE'S WHERE THE STORY GETS FUBAR
no matter how much i tried the car would NOT start. I took the plugs out (indivudually) and started the car and watched them make spark - So i have fuel, and spark. So i pulled the plugs and blew some air in it with my air compressor. Then i put the plugs back in try and start it and KAPOW! a god damn gunshot noise no doubt a glock 9mm went off in my engine bay. So i pull the plugs and the #3 cylinder blew a couple puffs of smoke. i reset the timing, YET AGAIN, tried starting it and it DOES NOT TURN OVER.

Battery is charged
No check engine lights
Working disitrb
Getting spark
Getting fuel
No bad fuses.

PLEASE HELP ME!
Ryan

This is how angry i am

 

you got some timing issues

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you got some timing issues</TD></TR></TABLE>

god ur clever... i think you're the FIRST person EVER to figure that out

on a less sarcastic note - should i pull the head?

 

So the engine won't even spin now? Sounds like either you originally bent a valve or your just not setting the belt correct.

All the build up of few from cranking it and the air you blew in probably allowed it to ignite.. Probably not at tdc like it should have.

When your lining your marks up are you using the timing mark or the tdc mark?

 

did it bang while turning the key? its possible it broke the starter.. I would not pull the head just yet.. check the starter first.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Overblown-Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So the engine won't even spin now? Sounds like either you originally bent a valve or your just not setting the belt correct.

All the build up of few from cranking it and the air you blew in probably allowed it to ignite.. Probably not at tdc like it should have.

When your lining your marks up are you using the timing mark or the tdc mark?</TD></TR></TABLE>

the engine does spin. As i start it and can see the cams turning over and the belt happily going with it. For the cams, im using the little notches on top of the cams (no the gears) and lining them straight up. The little notches are like directly above the #3 cylinder - when i line them up, the gears show that the cams are basically where they should be.

I'm seeing the crank at TDC by shoving my oil dip stick in the #1 cylinder and wating till its at the highest point, then setting the cams to their settings, then putting the belt on - rotate the crank counter clockwise, tighten the tensioner, then im all set.

 

Tegasaurus can do a timing belt. Other day i was in a rush and had 3 things to do and he did mine and my timing is perfect.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94goldjungsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tegasaurus can do a timing belt. Other day i was in a rush and had 3 things to do and he did mine and my timing is perfect.</TD></TR></TABLE>

rgr that.

I'm going to checker to get a compression gauge to check my compression

9:1 srp pistons that should be in a GSR block are in my LS block = what should the compression numbers be? that's like what 8.6:1 - 150psi?

 

Ok man just checking.. sounds like a valve got damaged.. do the compression check.. as long as they are all close you should be ok

 

Did you reset timing with a timing light? And also when you install the timing belt their is some part of the belt that dont have full tension on them so you have to rotate counterclokwise to have full tension on the belt, if you dont do this it may have skip meesing up you timing!?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegasaurus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>

MAN SHARK LIVES!!!!

 

I'm doing a compression check now... wish me luck

If the numbers are horrible - Turbo project is abandoned and im going to buy a b16 head and a gsr tranny... oh how i love boost

-ryan

 

145-90-120-148 are my numbers

WTF?!

 

A couple points

1.) Compression loss looks like its caused by improper valve timing. Id take the side timing belt cover off so you can line up TDC crank and TDC cams exactly.

2.) The Dizzy rotor should point to #1 wire at #1 TDC

3.) I doubt its a bent valve if the tbelt was off only 1 tooth. Ive seen timing belts off 16 degrees (installed wrong using the center timing marks for TDC) and not bend a valve.

4.) #3 can be determined very easily with a leakdown. Take the timing belt out of the equation or make sure valve lash has clearance and do a leakdown. I bet it will hold compression when valve timing is out of the equation. Can also take the cams out for this.

I dont think you need to take the head off at this point.

Edit: I thought this was a stock engine. Oh well


Modified by Muckman at 10:56 PM 11/10/2003

 

Without even looking at the combustion area on my head i looked down at the walls on my sleeves. They are scard to ****.

**** the machine shop that assembled my motor. 2200 dollars in parts DOWN THE DRAIN. **** hondas, **** the shop - **** this - im out


Modified by tegasaurus at 6:31 PM 11/11/2003

 

wow... i've gotta say... that really sucks man... i've read on your build-up for a while now in the posts that you've made... when you got your engine back, the failed turbo project... that sucks man.. i totally feel you...

good luck-

kenny

 

This sounds almost eaclty like the end of my sohc turbo, w/o the kaboom
Changed the timing belt, kept double checking timing and everything was lined up, but drove the car and all of a sudden it sounded like crazy lifter tick, rechecked the timing and the belt literally was able to come off if you nudged it. I didnt replace the tensioner and the timing ended up being 180° off after the drive.

Reset the belt again car seemed normal until it warmed up, felt sluggish and sputtered under mild acceleration. Had the same gas drenched plug issue and concluded that there was not enough spark, and the yellow-non-existant spark proved that. Car had trouble starting unless I "cooked" my plugs(pulling asg fuse and cranking the car over a few times to dry the plugs and then re-installed the fuse and the car would fire right up) I swapped out the dizzy, plugs, plug wires and nothing changed. And eventually car wouldnt even want to start with my "cooking" method.

Checked compression and my compression #'s were 125 25 85 130. (150k on the motor) as opposed to a more conisitent test(i forget the numbers) after the last timing belt check. Car was dead

Pulled the head and surprisingly I was lucky with the bottom end(there was so much carbon buildup on the pistons that the valves were hitting the carbon and not the pistons .) and the walls still even had the cross-hatching on them.

The head was another story, under close examination the valves in 2 and 3 were chipped at the edges and were not sealing properly...obviously why the compression was super low in those cylinders.

I ended up starting from scratch and am building a b-series now.

I feel your pain. Good luck with everything

 

bent them valves up bra

 

cam timming is off seen it before spark fuel and no fire

unless you have something bent of broken inside for you valve train as in your valves

 

since it sounds like it might be fubar'd, try this. you might be lucky and the cylinders were just washed in all the extra fuel.

go back and reset timing. pull plugs take compressor and blow out the cylinders again and leave them to dry overnight. drop about a teaspoon/tablespoon of oil down each plug hole to thoroughly coat the cylinder walls (getting a straw or thin baster/dropper thingy may help) don't need too much. let it sit for a few hours. reinstall fresh plugs and try to fire it up. if all is well it'll fire up and smoke like a bitch, but will burn off the excess oil. if it was washed cylinders hopefully that'll restore your compression unless you did some serious damage.

 

cylinder sleeves are scarred beyond all belief... like .5 to 1 mm of gouging. #4 was terrible, #3 was very bad and i couldn't look at the others before crying my eyes out. WHAAAA I'm going back to the shop who built my motor and telling them to fix it cuz there was obviously something wrong with the piston/wall clearance.

-Ryan

 

it almost sounds like the wristpins are rubbing agaist the cylinder wall take that sh*t back and throw it through there window

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fuccarlos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it almost sounds like the wristpins are rubbing agaist the cylinder wall take that sh*t back and throw it through there window</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's the plan

 

let us know what happens with this whole thing, don't let that shop screw you over'

kenny

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kKdARIAN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">let us know whats up bro'


kenny</TD></TR></TABLE>

the plan now is to have the machine shop fix my motor and purchase an ITR motor then paint my car so its nice looking and relatively fast.