To sell or not to sell... Got an offer on my R
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Louisville, KY, USA
To sell or not to sell... Got an offer on my R
Someone is offering me 20,000 for my 2001 ITR with 60k miles on it.
I really don't want to part with it but 20g's is a lot of money.
I could also get an FD RX7 and a bike after I sell it... But I don't know. Would you all part with your R for 20 g's? It's a really tough decision for me.
I really don't want to part with it but 20g's is a lot of money.
I could also get an FD RX7 and a bike after I sell it... But I don't know. Would you all part with your R for 20 g's? It's a really tough decision for me.
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Re: To sell or not to sell... Got an offer on my R (jaa1311)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jaa1311 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do it and get a '97 w/ low miles 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
'97s are always a good choice.
</TD></TR></TABLE>'97s are always a good choice.
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From: Toronto/Taipei, Canada/Taiwan
Re: To sell or not to sell... Got an offer on my R (jaa1311)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jaa1311 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do it and get a '97 w/ low miles </TD></TR></TABLE>
why sell one and get the same car ?
i say sell it and get different car !! FD would be a great car @
</TD></TR></TABLE>why sell one and get the same car ?
i say sell it and get different car !! FD would be a great car @
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Montreal, Qc, Canada
Re: To sell or not to sell... Got an offer on my R (Bbasso)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't do it, unless you have financial problems- You will regret it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think that too...is it really worth it, to giving your car away for the few g's that arwe gonna be left after you bought another car?
I think that too...is it really worth it, to giving your car away for the few g's that arwe gonna be left after you bought another car?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Louisville, KY, USA
Re: To sell or not to sell... Got an offer on my R (Bbasso)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't get me wrong I'm a big BIG RX7 fan but Honda Has the reliablity that I needed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's where the CBR600 comes in
that's where the CBR600 comes in
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Re: (machgo5go)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by machgo5go »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sell it and put it as down payment of 04 S2K!</TD></TR></TABLE>
i wouldn't...honda sports car are not supposed to have torque
seriously though, i have a feeling ppl will not like the new s2k as much as they like the old s2k
i wouldn't...honda sports car are not supposed to have torque
seriously though, i have a feeling ppl will not like the new s2k as much as they like the old s2k
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Oil rig, middle of the ocean
Re: To sell or not to sell... Got an offer on my R (TypeR Freak)
That would be really tempting. I'm just attached to mine being as I'm the only owner, if I sold it and got a used one it wouldn't be as much "my R".
20k lets see.
EG hatch- $2,500 (at least where I live for a good body)
B18C5 swap- $4,500
Good header, exhaust- $1,400
Hondata S100 w good tuning- $700
ITR brake swap/rear Si discs- $700 (probably over shooting on this one)
Nice suspension of your choice- $1,500
Decent set of rims- $800
That comes out to less than 13k and you'll have a nice reliable ride thats very quick, excellent brakes, and handles well. 7k to play with isn't bad either.
20k lets see.
EG hatch- $2,500 (at least where I live for a good body)
B18C5 swap- $4,500
Good header, exhaust- $1,400
Hondata S100 w good tuning- $700
ITR brake swap/rear Si discs- $700 (probably over shooting on this one)
Nice suspension of your choice- $1,500
Decent set of rims- $800
That comes out to less than 13k and you'll have a nice reliable ride thats very quick, excellent brakes, and handles well. 7k to play with isn't bad either.
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From: OLDSKOOL OF HARD KNOCKS
Re: To sell or not to sell... Got an offer on my R (TypeR Freak)
i think it all depends on how attached you are to YOUR Type-R. yes the miles are kinda high for an '01, and you can get another, but if you are one of those who have an unspoken "connection" with your car, like me, its almost like being kindred spirits
it also depends on how much money you've already invested into it, and what you would leave if you sold it.
an R belongs to someone who loves it for what is, and it sounds like you've taken good care of it to be offered a good price.
it also depends on how much money you've already invested into it, and what you would leave if you sold it.
an R belongs to someone who loves it for what is, and it sounds like you've taken good care of it to be offered a good price.
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,954
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From: C.O.M.A.
Re: To sell or not to sell... Got an offer on my R (-Lucky-)
if you are seriously considering selling the R(daily driver?) for an fd then i would suggest not to.
IF you can find a clean one for 15k you automatically need to spend a couple thousand in just reliability mods, radiator, full silicone hoses, air separation tank, rear toe and trailing arms, ect.
to get power you need another 5+ thousand for full exhaust, downpipe, midpipe, intercooler, intake, ecu; then 2k minimum for a set of lightweight 17x9.5 wheels and tires to handle the power(sorry, no 15's
). then a set of coilovers, which are not cheap either.
stock, they are mid-low 13 second cars, my civic pulls on my friends stock 94... however by spending the $ to get them performing right you can easily get into the 11's... however, they are extremely tempermental and if you do not know about rotory power first hand or have a close friend that does, you have headaches... the engine and turbos will self-destruct at 70k.
cliffs notes:
cons
*they are not daily drivers.
*they are not reliable.
*they get less than 15mpg stock.
*they are expensive
*if the engine overheats one time it is junked
pros
*not much theft
*dremel tool + six hours = toda d's
*they have potential to destroy tt supra and nsx in all aspects
*they drop panties
hopefully my next project will be to swap a 3-rotor in an fd, 450 NA (rear)whp
Modified by euclid at 6:00 AM 11/6/2003
IF you can find a clean one for 15k you automatically need to spend a couple thousand in just reliability mods, radiator, full silicone hoses, air separation tank, rear toe and trailing arms, ect.
to get power you need another 5+ thousand for full exhaust, downpipe, midpipe, intercooler, intake, ecu; then 2k minimum for a set of lightweight 17x9.5 wheels and tires to handle the power(sorry, no 15's
). then a set of coilovers, which are not cheap either.stock, they are mid-low 13 second cars, my civic pulls on my friends stock 94... however by spending the $ to get them performing right you can easily get into the 11's... however, they are extremely tempermental and if you do not know about rotory power first hand or have a close friend that does, you have headaches... the engine and turbos will self-destruct at 70k.
cliffs notes:
cons
*they are not daily drivers.
*they are not reliable.
*they get less than 15mpg stock.
*they are expensive
*if the engine overheats one time it is junked
pros
*not much theft
*dremel tool + six hours = toda d's
*they have potential to destroy tt supra and nsx in all aspects
*they drop panties
hopefully my next project will be to swap a 3-rotor in an fd, 450 NA (rear)whp
Modified by euclid at 6:00 AM 11/6/2003
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
From: verysocal, usa
Re: To sell or not to sell... Got an offer on my R (euclid)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by euclid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you are seriously considering selling the R(daily driver?) for an fd then i would suggest not to.
IF you can find a clean one for 15k you automatically need to spend a couple thousand in just reliability mods, radiator, full silicone hoses, air separation tank, rear toe and trailing arms, ect.
to get power you need another 5+ thousand for full exhaust, downpipe, midpipe, intercooler, intake, ecu; then 2k minimum for a set of lightweight 17x9.5 wheels and tires to handle the power(sorry, no 15's ). then a set of coilovers, which are not cheap either.
stock, they are mid-low 13 second cars, my civic pulls on my friends stock 94... however by spending the $ to get them performing right you can easily get into the 11's... however, they are extremely tempermental and if you do not know about rotory power first hand or have a close friend that does, you have headaches... the engine and turbos will self-destruct at 70k.
cliffs notes:
cons
*they are not daily drivers.
*they are not reliable.
*they get less than 15mpg stock.
*they are expensive
*if the engine overheats one time it is junked
pros
*not much theft
*dremel tool + six hours = toda d's
*they have potential to destroy tt supra and nsx in all aspects
*they drop panties
hopefully my next project will be to swap a 3-rotor in an fd, 450 NA (rear)whp
Modified by euclid at 6:00 AM 11/6/2003</TD></TR></TABLE>
its also almost impossible to run the car with just a downpipe and exhaust without a power fc or some kind of stand alone
IF you can find a clean one for 15k you automatically need to spend a couple thousand in just reliability mods, radiator, full silicone hoses, air separation tank, rear toe and trailing arms, ect.
to get power you need another 5+ thousand for full exhaust, downpipe, midpipe, intercooler, intake, ecu; then 2k minimum for a set of lightweight 17x9.5 wheels and tires to handle the power(sorry, no 15's
). then a set of coilovers, which are not cheap either.stock, they are mid-low 13 second cars, my civic pulls on my friends stock 94... however by spending the $ to get them performing right you can easily get into the 11's... however, they are extremely tempermental and if you do not know about rotory power first hand or have a close friend that does, you have headaches... the engine and turbos will self-destruct at 70k.
cliffs notes:
cons
*they are not daily drivers.
*they are not reliable.
*they get less than 15mpg stock.
*they are expensive
*if the engine overheats one time it is junked
pros
*not much theft
*dremel tool + six hours = toda d's
*they have potential to destroy tt supra and nsx in all aspects
*they drop panties
hopefully my next project will be to swap a 3-rotor in an fd, 450 NA (rear)whp
Modified by euclid at 6:00 AM 11/6/2003</TD></TR></TABLE>
its also almost impossible to run the car with just a downpipe and exhaust without a power fc or some kind of stand alone
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,954
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From: C.O.M.A.
Re: To sell or not to sell... Got an offer on my R (abitojdm)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by euclid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
to get power you need another 5+ thousand for full exhaust, downpipe, midpipe, intercooler, intake, ecu ; </TD></TR></TABLE>
youre right, the m2 reprogramed stock ecu is 600$, a haltech is over 1000$.
thats another thing, if the rotory motor runs lean then it gets damaged, you have to send lots of fuel.
to get power you need another 5+ thousand for full exhaust, downpipe, midpipe, intercooler, intake, ecu ; </TD></TR></TABLE>
youre right, the m2 reprogramed stock ecu is 600$, a haltech is over 1000$.
thats another thing, if the rotory motor runs lean then it gets damaged, you have to send lots of fuel.