Like it says...Clicking in valve train whenever the motor is heated up..I have Crower Dual Intake and Exhauts springs, and Crower Titanium retainers. I can adjust the valves and as soon as it gets warm they start clicking and clacking again...Just wondering if anybody has ran into this same prob...Thanks

Cameron

 

Hi, I have the same problem some people say it's the distributor shaft bearing and some say that you have to adjust your valves , but I think it's the valves that needs to be adjusted.

 

I would have to have more info if to definitly tell you............but it sounds like your Lost motion assembly is going bad.

 

Someone please help. i have the same exact problem its always been like that on my car since i did the swap like 2 1/2 yrs ago. it also ticks loud from like 2500 rpm to like 3500 rpm and and then after i dont hear it anymore when driving, but then at a stand still its ticks loud and comes and goes. i did lots of valve adjustments, but then dont work more than a day.

 

yeah, it could be your lma's, also how long ago did you install your titanium retainers?

 

had that problem ones and determined that it was the distributor

 

i installed ti retainers like 3months ago

 

how would i check it if its da distributor

 

I've got a 93 Accord EX
I get the same thing
And I have adjusted the valves twice in the past three years
Still there, and annoying

An individual told me of a possibility a stripped spark plug might go in to far to head.
But if thats the case, an all to common miss fire would be a problem
There was another that dealt with the torgue placed on the bolts holding the cams down.

Hopefully someone will shead some light as to this problem that's out there...


Philly-B

 

I think like a lot of other people said it might be your lmas.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by michaelOlson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think like a lot of other people said it might be your lmas.</TD></TR></TABLE>

, but not for the 93 accord unless its got an H22, b/c you only have LMA's if your engine has VTEC. They absorb the VTEC rocker arm when VTEC isn't engaged, and they can start sticking which causes the ticking!

 

I never thought about the LMA...Ya I can adjust my valve and as soon as the motor heats up its load as hell again...I just hope I can buy LMA's...I'm running a LS distributor, but I've had it on there for the get go.. The retainers have been on there for about a year and a half, and I just thought it would be some noise from them. By my friend has an LS with a full Crower top end and his doesnt make any chatter like that. I had the head cleaned and fully checked when I had it rebuilt but i never thought about the LMA's....thanks for your help...I'll be sure to let you know when it is when i fig out..

 

Yeah and LS friend doesn't hear this noise because he has no LMA's.

 

AHH yes...I dont know much on LS Heads, is there something I can look for on them to help determine if they are bad or not...

 

Its really kinda hard to tell if there bad by just looking. They are only 8 of them with one under each VTEC rocker arm, and they aren't very hard to replace if you have knowlegde of working on a b-series head. And new ones will run you about $250-300 for ITR LMA's.

 

Is this from Acura...I have an acct there so hopefullt i can get them a lil cheaper...ive taken the head apart before...so thats not a prob..thanks..

cameron

 

what about the other valvetrain components like guides and stuff like that maybe they are not getting lubrication somwehre around there,im not sure just throwing out some ideas,usually a clicking sound is a clearance issue maybe a seal or two is worn down..what do you peeps think?

 

I have new guides and seals...all replaced in june of this year....

 

This is a long shot but it might be your injectors. To help pin point the problem get a long screw driver, put the end of the screw driver in the area that you think is the problem then place your ear on the end of the screw driver. Use the end of the screw driver to close the littlle flap thing on your ear by pressing your head against it and sealing your ear you will be able to hear the inner workings of your engine in the area that you have placed the screw driver. Hope this helps

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboB16aEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is this from Acura...I have an acct there so hopefullt i can get them a lil cheaper...ive taken the head apart before...so thats not a prob..thanks..

cameron</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah that price was quoted from honda for ITR LMA's, i would definilty go for the discount.

 

Thanks for all your help...

Cameron

 

I must be reterded... I have the same problem; would like to fix it, but have no idea what an LMA is. can someone shed some light on this for me please?

Rob

 

i have a similar noise between 1 and 3500 rpms...but it sound more like a spinning noise...but noise is very relative. i first considered it a clicking...but now i hear more of a spinning. drove the car hard tonight and it got very loud through that rpm range...BUT its pretty quiet at idle...can this still be lma's? its an 00 b16 by the way...bone stock.

 

bent valves

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostRotter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bent valves</TD></TR></TABLE>

is this a response to me?