A friend is picking up an H22 that has pistons that are chipped from detonation. We're going to remove them and install OEM pistons since Sleeving is not an option for him due to his budget.

From what' I've heard, the H22 does not posess the cross hatch from honing like the B Series because of it's special FML layer, So what do we need to do in order to hone it? A Special honing tool or just put the pistons/rods in without honing? The motor has around 40,000 miles.

 

Well I am by all means NO PRO, But its my understanding you can't just throw in the New Pistons, Rods & rings. They will not Seat properly (Rings) So you will probably burn oil like a MOO FOO!
I could be wrong, so if I am could someone please lead this guy in the right direction.
Theres a right way and a wrong way. Do it right the first time (while the motor is outta the car)

 

I didn't hone the wall on my B20 because the hone marks were still fresh on a 30k, it's never smoked since and it's still running strong at 67K+

As a matter of fact, the mechanics at my local dealership don't even bother honing. Acura Legend's come in all the time smoking oil and the mechanics there just slap in new piston rings without honing and they come out running strong

 

all the H series motors come with a FRM sleeve (fiber renforced material) that does not accecpt forged internals, as for honing them I am not sure

 

wait till alittle after 12 when i get to work, and i will post up what the helms says, mine is at work . p.s. its FRM not fml

 

IIRC it's a 60 degree cross hatch hone... i can't find my helms right now though to verify

 

Yes, the FRM liners can (and should) be honed - the correct procedure is in the Helms manual. It's also come up in threads here several times, so a search should bring it up as well.

 

From what I heard, the honing device for the H22 looks like a cloth???

 

from helms:

honing stone: GC-600-J or finer stone
pressure 200-300kPa (28-43psi)
honing rpm 45-50 rpm
honing thickness : les than .02 mm (do not hone more than 20 cycles)
honing lubricant: oil type
honing patter: 60 degree cross-hatch

 

The same instructions are in my manual too...

 

if you follow those steps kiss your FRM goodbye!

this is not your average hone... standard honing will be shinny, i got my block back from the machine shop and was very dull finish, they told me they needed 3 stones and special lubriant and paste in between the coats...

if you ever see an FRM sleeve you'd see.. the finish is very dull and soft, the cross hatch is there but you can't see it well because of the finish.

if you see the lines it will smoke and not work...

I installed 11.0cr pistons oversized and works well no smoke so... do resaerch before you get pissed off with the outcome.

 

Yeah. We were putting a new short block in a 540 the other day & I was looking at the cyl. walls. They are exactly the same as the h22. They looked smooth like it was cast & never machined. I think I would let the pro's handle that one

 

You should bore the block to 87.25 and use rebuild pistons to be safe.

Just so happens I have some for sale...check the FS thread at the top on page 2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tein Man &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Acura Legend's come in all the time smoking oil and the mechanics there just slap in new piston rings without honing and they come out running strong </TD></TR></TABLE>

Honing is what exactly? Isn't that some type of mahcine work where they scrap the inside cylinder walls? Cus if it is my legend's honing was still visible after 210K miles. Too bad I'm retarded and forgot to take a pic of it

 

We just built an H22 with type S pistons and other performance parts, and we honed the walls. The motor had right at 200k on it and the cyl walls were so smooth that if you didn't hone the walls that it would probably take 20K miles to break in those rings.

 

im pretty sure thats a BALL HONE your supposed to be using....ill check when i get home from work ....or if any one has a hond service manual they can check *** well

 

when i broke some ringland and had to have a new piston installed. (motor had about 45k mi) the honda mechanic didn't hone the cylinder at all. I was told by him and I infered from the helms where it says "NOTE: Scored or scratched cylinder bores must be honed." meaning that otherwise it is not completely necessary. But it does state also in the helms "If the block is to be reused, hone the cylinders and remeasure the bores."

Either way my piston was installed with no honing as the cylinder was perfect. 6k miles later it still holds 210psi compression and I do not burn any significant amount of oil.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vector4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when i broke some ringland and had to have a new piston installed. (motor had about 45k mi) the honda mechanic didn't hone the cylinder at all. I was told by him and I infered from the helms where it says "NOTE: Scored or scratched cylinder bores must be honed." meaning that otherwise it is not completely necessary. But it does state also in the helms "If the block is to be reused, hone the cylinders and remeasure the bores."

Either way my piston was installed with no honing as the cylinder was perfect. 6k miles later it still holds 210psi compression and I do not burn any significant amount of oil. </TD></TR></TABLE>

no it doesn't. the helms does state if the scratches can't catch a fingernail it doesn't have to be honed.

 

hone the cyl walls if the wall show glaze(shinny/mirror look) honing will take off the glaze and cyl wall will be dull to get a good seal from the oil rings