Engine

· IT prepped Head (Shaved .015”, valve job, new valve guides, seals, gasket matched intake/exhaust ports, 1990 camshaft) – Less than 1 hour on head.
· Stock shortblock (190-198 compression in cylinders, 3-6% leakdown tested)
· Gasket matched intake manifold
· New headgasket, water pump, timing belt, cap/rotor, alternator belt, intake/exhaust/throttle body gaskets, valve cover gasket, cam seal, injector o-rings, upper/lower radiator hoses, throttle cable, spark plugs, spark plug wires, battery.
· DC Sports 4-2-1 header
· New 2.5” exhaust with new Dynomax resonator, turndown
· AEM intake w/ K&N filter (rain and cold air setups)
· Balanced/blueprinted injectors
· New B&M Fuel pressure regulator with new gauge
· custom catch tank for crank case breather
· 1990 OE ECU, socketed with 3 available chip programs ( stock, Mugen, RPT programs)
· Dyno tested at 121hp/113tq in 3 baseline runs on stock ECU program. More power is there, just need to experiment a bit. I have the dyno sheet.

Transmission

· 98k street miles on transmission (shifts smooth, no grinds)
· New OPM LSD
· New ATS 4.73:1 final drive
· New Exedy clutch disc, new OEM pressure plate, throw, release bearing
· New remanufactured flywheel
· New Axle, other is still good.
· Honda MTF fluid

Suspension/Wheels/Tires

· New Koni single adjustable shocks ( all 4 revalved, shortened front units)
· Ground Control coilovers
· New pairs of 500lbs, 650lbs and 750lbs springs (car currently has 500/650’s on)
· New Mugen rear trailing arm bushings
· New radius rod bearings
· New Prothane master bushing kit
· Suspension Techniques 22mm adjustable rear sway bar (currently not on car)
· Generic front strut bar
· 89-91 rear LCA’s
· Rear disc off 1990 CRX Si
· 14x7 Panasport wheels
· 205/55/14 Toyo RA-1’s ( less than 40 minutes of track time, originally shaved to 4/32nd)
· Stock CRX wheels (2 new Falken Azenis, 2 fairly new Nitto 450’s)

Brakes

· New front/ rear rotors
· 90 CRX Si rear disc
· New front calipers
· New Hawk Blue front pads
· New OEM replacement rear pads
· Stainless front/rear brake lines
· New 90/91 CRX Si master cylinder
· New brake booster
· Motul 600 fluid

Interior

· Momo Nascar seat
· Momo seat rails
· New G-Force Cam-lock 5 point harness on the way
· Momo Top Power steering wheel
· New quick release from LTB Motorsports for steering wheel (brings wheel 2.5” closer to driver)
· New Sparco window net
· New M&R window net hardware
· New in-dash gauge panel (new Autometer Phantom Series 3 3/8” tach, 2 1/16” water temp gauge, 2 1/16” oil pressure gauge)
· New Moroso starter/ ignition and accessories switch panel
· Skunk2 shift ****
· Generic pedal covers
· 2.5lb fire extinguisher
· Sound dampening removed
· 8 point welded cage (fabricated by S-Car-Go Racing)
· Recent interior paint (black cage, grey interior)

Exterior

· Recent Paint ( single stage, Championship White)
· Sparco hood pins
· Riveted sunroof panel

Misc.

· To be SCCA/NASA legal, the car still needs a seat back brace, fuel test port and battery kill switch. Should be around $100-$150 for all these parts.
· Clutch makes a whining noise. Not exactly sure why, has new pilot and throw bearing as well as new disc and pressure plate. Still engages perfectly.
· Tachometer recently started bouncing around. I replaced the car/rotor but its still doing it. Most likely ignitor needs to be changed or possibly distributor itself. Isn’t a tach issue. The tach is brand new.
· When I say “New” I mean that the parts have an hour or less of track time. I bought the car as a rolling chassis and built it up from there with as many new parts as possible. None of the parts are cheap. Most were purchased from OPM Motorpsorts.


Currently taking offers, not looking to trade for another car. Must sell due to lack of weekend time due to new job and lack of funds to pursue this hobby.

Pictures can be seen at http://www.f20c.com/album67

Email address: jason-bell@comcast.net

 

This looks like a nice find folks. Somebody who is thinking about building from scratch should seriously consider this.

 

Take my word as well. If you are thinking of building from scratch, pretty much as I did with this car, buying a car that is 99% race ready will save you time, headaches and most importantly money. Ive spent about a year and half slowly building this car up, but due to a new job I just do not have time to go through with actually racing it.

 

Hate playing the guessing game....

What are you looking to get for the car? Ballpark...

I am interested.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tachometer recently started bouncing around. I replaced the car/rotor but its still doing it. Most likely ignitor needs to be changed or possibly distributor itself. Isn’t a tach issue. The tach is brand new.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This from my experience is the distributor (2 for 2). $379 I think from NAPA or Honda. They will list a dist. replacement for less (like $270) but that ain't the right guy. Wish I could remember the manufacturer of the right one but these, from my experience, are wear items on this car.

 

Ebay to the rescue!

http://www.stores.ebay.com/id=...me=L2

$185

 

jason, btw the jumping tach is just the ignitor for sure. i replaced mine last weekend and my jumping tach was fixed, as well as pregressively more frequent stalls on the highway.

good luck on the sale. this is a great chassis and a great engine with all the suspension you need to be competitive.

 

jason,
How much are you asking? Your car is one of the clean'est ones around and looks well built too. Good luck on sale. You may want to post the car in improvedtouring.com.

 

Thanks for the suggestions on the distributor and kind words about the car. As far as what I am looking to get, I am not all that sure. I have seen others with the same mods asking anywhere from 7k to an outragous 16.5k! With the money and time I have into the car, I am looking for somewhere in the 7.5k range.

 

nice car! You're making good hp/tq numbers

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jasonb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am looking for somewhere in the 7.5k range. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Somebody, FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, buy this thing. It's a great car on paper. And (AFAIK...please correct me if I'm wrong Jason, I make assumptions since it's not all stickered up) it hasn't gone racing yet. So it's not a proven winner like say the car Whitney bought last year, but it also hasn't had the chit crashed out of it.

Jason, you're killing me here. If I didn't have the current money pit H3/ITS car I'd be on this like, well, white on rice.

 

back up top!

 

Still have the heater controls in a box somewhere? The heater core is still there?

A very nice IT project for sure...

 

Crazy **** man...

 

I think I have those parts somewhere along with the center console/lower dash. Just need to make a trip to storage and search. If not and the buyer is that concerned about those parts, I'm sure I can obtain them.

 

I am about to let it go for $6500 to a guy in CO. You all are missing out!

 

remember to take out my camera mount....

 

Damn, I thought you forgot!

 

The person who was going to buy it backed out. Said he cant fit in a CRX. 6'4" 275 isnt too big for a CRX! So its back up for sale...

And by the way, I was about to sell it for $6500. Needs I say this is a steal?

 

Bump so a friend from work can see this.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jasonb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The person who was going to buy it backed out. Said he cant fit in a CRX. 6'4" 275 isnt too big for a CRX! So its back up for sale...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm 6'3" and have about 6" to spare in my rex with no sunroof and a fixed-back seat bolted to the floor

 

still sitting here... waiting for someone to buy this damn thing

 

trying to bring this thread back from the dead....

 

pictures are worth 1000 bumps

 

plenty O pics here... http://www.f20c.com/album67