If you got a 1996 civic stock hatch @ 95K miles and no maintenance history, what would you do?
Basicly, I got a 1996 civic dx hatch which is completely stock. I don't know any maintenance history so I'm guessing I should be doing some stuff. Its at about 95 or 96K miles. What do I need to be doing?
Things I've heard so far are:
Change spark plugs:
Which plugs should I go with?
Where can I buy them from?
Change spark plug wires:
Which wires should I go with?
Where can I buy them from?
Change oil: 5w30 oil:
Which oil? I used to use mobil1 synthetic with my 94 civic. Should I use that?
Check/Change all fluids:
Which fluids need to be changed?
Something about a timing belt:
Could I change the timing belt myself?
I called the dealership and they want $470.00 to change the timing belt only. Is
this a hard thing to do. Keep in mind that the most advanced thing I have done
so far is change a complete suspension and easy bolton stuff. + My tool collection
is limited.
Am I missing something else?
Keep in mind that I definitely plan to swap the engine but due to college, its not happening any time soon. So my goal that I'm focusing on is making sure I keep the engine completely stock. Meaning I want it to perform very well but there will be no aftermarket intakes, headers, turbo, or anything else that is a waist of money on a d16y7 SOHC engine. No offence to the SOHC modders out there. I did the mod thing on one before and the end result was not something that was worth the money to me.
Well, thats it, please help
Things I've heard so far are:
Change spark plugs:
Which plugs should I go with?
Where can I buy them from?
Change spark plug wires:
Which wires should I go with?
Where can I buy them from?
Change oil: 5w30 oil:
Which oil? I used to use mobil1 synthetic with my 94 civic. Should I use that?
Check/Change all fluids:
Which fluids need to be changed?
Something about a timing belt:
Could I change the timing belt myself?
I called the dealership and they want $470.00 to change the timing belt only. Is
this a hard thing to do. Keep in mind that the most advanced thing I have done
so far is change a complete suspension and easy bolton stuff. + My tool collection
is limited.
Am I missing something else?
Keep in mind that I definitely plan to swap the engine but due to college, its not happening any time soon. So my goal that I'm focusing on is making sure I keep the engine completely stock. Meaning I want it to perform very well but there will be no aftermarket intakes, headers, turbo, or anything else that is a waist of money on a d16y7 SOHC engine. No offence to the SOHC modders out there. I did the mod thing on one before and the end result was not something that was worth the money to me.
Well, thats it, please help
Might as well do the water pump w/ the timing belt, if you are not comfortable doing the timing belt or don't have the tools, try to find someone to do it on the side.
i would definitly change timing belt. its a chap change for the parts the dealership is getting you for labor charges.... im guessin you might not be able to do it yourself.. it is about a 5-7 hour job depending how quick you are... it is a little involved. and if your going to change the timing b elt you mighgt as well change the water pump too your gonna be in that way anyway you have to move in order to change the belt anyway.
as for oil def go with sythetic moblie one is good choice i use castrol synthetic
as for plugs and wires that can be a personal choice... depending how long your wanting them to last and they make different color wires and all that stuff...
as for oil def go with sythetic moblie one is good choice i use castrol synthetic
as for plugs and wires that can be a personal choice... depending how long your wanting them to last and they make different color wires and all that stuff...
Do not get the timing belt changed at the dealership. Most mechanics only charge half of what you were quoted. My mechanic only charges me $140 for parts and labor. Like others have said, go ahead and change the water pump out because you'll be in there anyway. I've alway heard to just use the NGK plugs in Honda's because they are the best. Good luck!
Thanks, so from everyones help so far, I have:
change timing belt & water pump not at dealer
ngk spark plugs
I guess auto zone plug wires
mobil 1 synthetic motor oil
Am I missing any other fluids?
Am I missing anything else?
change timing belt & water pump not at dealer
ngk spark plugs
I guess auto zone plug wires
mobil 1 synthetic motor oil
Am I missing any other fluids?
Am I missing anything else?
I wouldn't go synthetic on the oil unless you know that it's ran synthetic for most of it's life. I've heard that if you switch to syn at a high milage that it can lead because it's thinner than regualr dinosaur oil.
Also, fuel filter, water pump, check the cap/rotor.
Also, fuel filter, water pump, check the cap/rotor.
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save your money on plug wires
pick up some ngk copper plugs, should be like $2 each
save your money on synthetic oil too... its a d15... besides that, its got 100k miles... i use castrol gtx... just my preference
do change the timing belt/water pump... i gotta do this to my newly acquired 96 ex coupe... as well as a buddy of mine on his 98 dx coupe... if you're mechanically inclined, buy the Helms and research everything you can and what tools you'll need. Hondas are Easy. oh yeah, buy a honda oem timing belt and water pump
wont hurt to pickup a honda oem cap and rotor as well... and honda oem fuel filter... and change the tranny fluid (honda fluid)... a coolant change wouldn't hurt either... i personally use prestone, but, some people use the honda stuff or something else...
do lots of research before you do anything
good luck
pick up some ngk copper plugs, should be like $2 each
save your money on synthetic oil too... its a d15... besides that, its got 100k miles... i use castrol gtx... just my preference
do change the timing belt/water pump... i gotta do this to my newly acquired 96 ex coupe... as well as a buddy of mine on his 98 dx coupe... if you're mechanically inclined, buy the Helms and research everything you can and what tools you'll need. Hondas are Easy. oh yeah, buy a honda oem timing belt and water pump
wont hurt to pickup a honda oem cap and rotor as well... and honda oem fuel filter... and change the tranny fluid (honda fluid)... a coolant change wouldn't hurt either... i personally use prestone, but, some people use the honda stuff or something else...
do lots of research before you do anything
good luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sushiboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't go synthetic on the oil unless you know that it's ran synthetic for most of it's life. I've heard that if you switch to syn at a high milage that it can lead because it's thinner than regualr dinosaur oil.
Also, fuel filter, water pump, check the cap/rotor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Ha ha, if the dinasaurs only know we would use their bodies to get higher RPM's.
I get everthing you said except check the cap and rotor. Do you mean open the distributor up? If so, what am I checking for?
Also, fuel filter, water pump, check the cap/rotor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Ha ha, if the dinasaurs only know we would use their bodies to get higher RPM's.

I get everthing you said except check the cap and rotor. Do you mean open the distributor up? If so, what am I checking for?
Thanks supadupamikey for the long break down. Makes a lot of sence
But like I asked the other guy, when you say rotor and cap, are you talking about the distributor?
But like I asked the other guy, when you say rotor and cap, are you talking about the distributor?
Yeah they are talking about a new distributor cap and rotor button(its inside the cap). These won't cost you much to change out. Might as well go ahead and do it. It's easy.
Meaning I need to get part #2 and part #3 from the diagram below?
Just call up hparts.com and tell them you need a "cap and rotor"... they'll hook you up with the right ****. i've also had good luck with ahmotor.com... hparts seems to be a few pennies cheaper... pickup whatever else you need at that time as well.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kay_animation »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Meaning I need to get part #2 and part #3 from the diagram below?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kay_animation »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Meaning I need to get part #2 and part #3 from the diagram below?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
theres more than just dinosaurs in that oil 
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kay_animation »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ha ha, if the dinasaurs only know we would use their bodies to get higher RPM's.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kay_animation »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ha ha, if the dinasaurs only know we would use their bodies to get higher RPM's.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Air filter is cheap and easy.
I would replace not only the timing belts, but all the others ones as well. It takes about 2-3 hours for those.
Are you just doing engine stuff? If not I would also inspect the brakes and replace what needs to be replaced.
I would replace not only the timing belts, but all the others ones as well. It takes about 2-3 hours for those.
Are you just doing engine stuff? If not I would also inspect the brakes and replace what needs to be replaced.
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