CAR - 01 ITR, stock suspension, wheel tire combo- 15x7" +43 with 225/45/15 R compounds.


Use - Not daily driven, local and regional autocross (SM) and multiple HPDE's a season (3-5 this year but, planning as many as possible with the listed setup next season.)


Goal - attempting to afford as many track days as I can, I am a Novice almost ready to jump to Int. and really in the beginning of learning, putting what I learn to use and perfecting what I can do on the track with my stock suspensioned R, I think I am ready for a camber kit for the front and rear of my car to hopefully get that much more from it. I really want to be able to outdrive it before I go spending major $$$ and changing the full suspension.


What I gathered from the Nascar boys - was a reasonably clear albeit simple description of their suspension's and setups (shocks, valving, adjustments, camber etc. what they provide and how they set up their cars.) I understand the type of racing they do and my goal experience is apples to oranges as is the car and how they/ may want it setup. I saw how they set camber (from 3 degrees - to 7 degrees - and that they will adjust with shims when need be after pyrometer testing and driver input.) I've also read and reread several GRM issues that cover suspensions fully.


Simple (but long) Question - How do you decide to set camber both front and rear?

I did the generic 8th toe out up front and can notice the turn-in and track. I can also appreciate the difference with 15x7" wide wheels and 225/45 series tires.

Is the pyrometer how most of you gauge to set your camber? OR is is just a feel? Or a combination of both or other?

And how often do you set/reset it?

Is there a generic negative camber setting that will provide better cornering as the 8th toe out does without sacrificing too much of the tire and straight line braking ability?

IF this has been covered clearly for my answer please provide the link.

I have searched a bit and read some and according to this thread there is a difference of opinion between Todd00 and Catch22 for optimal generic settings for an Integra Gen3/ ITR: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=438190

But, the biggest point is that most people here that I saw post camber questions either are running an aftermarket suspension (majority for racing purposes,) or in other forums they are trying to decide on camber simply because they are dumped and/or basically just for looks.

I've invited several people to this thread for a bit of a jumpstart:

Willard
George
Bryan
Rodney
David

Thanks in advance, Anton

 

I don't have camber adjustments on my car yet... they are on the 'to-do' list. A stiffer spring would be nice... but when (and if) I decide to purchase springs the camber kit will be needed anyway.

I think tire temps and car feel willd be the way I will set/adjust the camber. With stock springs the adjustments suitable for track use won't be street friendly at all. An adjustment at the track will save tires... but make the return to street use hard. I sure am glad I bought the lifetime alignment.

A added benifit of installing a adjustable camber kit on a car is saving tires. The inside edge of my tires hardly wear at all. The rear tires of my car after a session look like only 1/2 of the tread is used when taking the turns.

I have found several rear adjustment links that look suitable... but I am still trying to decide on a front arm.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Honestly, Anton, I would leave camber alone if you're on a stock suspension.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Any reasons George?

I ran my HPDE's on Azenis and when I rotate them and change them, I notice significant wear on the outside edges. This would be directly related to camber and lack of negative correct?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You're opening up a can of worms and beginning to deal with issues that most of us leave alone until we're NASA Group 3 or BSR Seat Time.

Anton, it's possible, yes...if you're very, very fast ("Willard Fast") on a stock suspension.

However, it's more likely related to toe.

Willard's about as fast as you can get on a stock suspension ITR, and he still doesn't adjust camber.</TD></TR></TABLE>


[Shuffles off to book more seat time.]

 

Anton,
I know we talked about this a little yesterday, but George brings up a good point. Only at this year's time trial at Summit did I explore the full limits of my stock suspension. So, wait until you are well into intermediate or about to go in the advance group before making changes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he still doesn't adjust camber.</TD></TR></TABLE>yet..

my wallet has kept me from adjusting camber for a while.

 

I don't think it'd be a bad idea to put on some Skunk arms and rear camber links.

But I'd stick to 205's - Toyo's - on stock dampers and springs.

Run about -2.5F and -1R to start - just set them and don't screw with it all the time (other than to keep the hardware tight on the Skunk arms).

Scott, who hates to see innocent tires suffer excessively...

 

tire killer

 

I was very pleased with the street/track set up below. I have since moved to a more aggressive track set up.

Front camber -1.75
Rear camber - 1.5
Front toe 0
Rear toe 1/16th in

This produced very even tire wear on track and pretty good street wear. My observation is that excessive toe eats street tires much more than camber. (Bear in mind that I've never gotten more that 10K out of a set of street tires )