Is there a recommended Crower spec to adjust valve lash to? I know the stock H22A specs are: INTAKE: .17mm (+or- .02mm) and EXHAUST (+or- .02mm)

I just recently installed my Crower Stage 2 cams. Everything was torqued to spec with my brand new Snap-on digital 3/8" torque wrench.

Has anyone here had difficulty adjusting valve lash to specs? Valve lash for the intake came was adjusted to spec with no difficulty. However, the Crower exhaust cam is giving me problems.

I'm using a .203mm feeler gauge to set the exhaust valve lash. With all the adjust screws backed out, only cylinder number 2 will allow me to slide in the feeler between the cam shaft and rocker arm.

I wonder if I have a BAD Crower exhaust cam? Or otherwise, maybe due to a higher lift, I am unable to set the exhaust valve lash to stock specs. Which again is rather weird, because cylinder number 2's cam lobes seem to set up fine.

Can anyone help me out? I'll post pics later to clarify things.

Otherwise, the only other thing left for me to do is to remove the exhaust cam, and measure the cam lobes with a vernier caliper. You would think Crower has good quality control, especially on a critical engine component. I wonder if this has anything to do with Crower cams breaking?

Thanks.

 

when you figure out the problem let us know. i have some stage 2 turbo cams on the way for my h22. hopefully you get this problem worked out! do a lot of people have issues with these cams breaking?

 

Below is a pic of the cam before installation. I have marked the cam lobes that are giving me problems.



I also have adjustable cam gears installed. They are set at 0 degrees.


Below is cylinder 1 RIGHT exh. cam lobe. 0.203mm feeler gauge does NOT slide in with valve lash adjuster backed out. A 0.127mm feeler gauge slides right in.



Below is cylinder 1 LEFT exh cam lobe. 0.203mm feeler gauge OK.







Modified by CBR at 11:38 PM 8/16/2003

 

You are turning each cylinder to TDC, right? You can't do all the valves at once without turning the cams so they are on the base circle for the valves you are trying to adjust...

 

OK, I hate to break it to you but you need to grind your rocker arms......there is a part in the instructions that explains the possible machine work needed to install the cams

 

I've never heard that the Crower Stage 2's needed machine work to fit correctly. Where did you hear this? Since I know they don't come with those instructions.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flyrod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are turning each cylinder to TDC, right? You can't do all the valves at once without turning the cams so they are on the base circle for the valves you are trying to adjust...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've never adjusted right at TDC. At TDC the lobe is too close to the rocker and could interfere with adjusting. I just rotate until I feel the lobes straight out from the rocker then do my measuring.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4bidden &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've never adjusted right at TDC. At TDC the lobe is too close to the rocker and could interfere with adjusting. I just rotate until I feel the lobes straight out from the rocker then do my measuring.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know the correct procedure, so that is not what is causing the valve-lash clearance issues. I'm rather puzzled right now. The Crower Stage 2 intake cam had no problems with valve lash adjustment, it's only the exhaust cam that's giving me problems.

It's rather weird that only cylinder 2's cam lobes would allow a .203mm feeler gauge, where as for the other cylinders, only 1 cam lobe per cylinder would allow a .203mm feeler gauge.

I'll remove the Crower cams and measure the cam lobes with a vernier caliper. I'll post the results later.

The CROWER instructions did not mention anything about rocker arm grinding for the H22A cams.

Any other ideas or suggestions? I'm going to have to give Crower a call tomorrow.

 

well.....my instructions say "some grinding of rocker arm may be necessarry, it will not affect the integrity of the rocker arm".......I have stage 2s with the big lobes....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NXLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well.....my instructions say "some grinding of rocker arm may be necessarry, it will not affect the integrity of the rocker arm".......I have stage 2s with the big lobes....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you have to grind your rocker arms? I'm assume you have the stage 2s with out the stock idle lobes?

 

Have you recently had a valve job done? If the valve seats are cut too deep, the retainers' installed hight will be too high, causing the rockers to hit the top of the retainers. Also, some valve spring/retainer kits have interference issues to begin with, Crower being one that we've seen problems with, so you could have a combination of problems. Check for interference in there, and grind as necessary (like NXLude said).

 

All of mine had to be ground to clear, as stated in the instructions.

 

With the rockers hitting the retainers? Not a good idea, unless you plan on tearing that motor apart soon. They need to miss, and in order to do that, according to the installation instructions that come with the cams, you need to do a mild grind to have the proper clearance.

 

we have to take ours to a mechine shop sometimes to get a slight clean bore just to make them fit. we have run into the same problems as you. mic the cams and the inside diameter of the journals see what the problem may be.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94vtecmn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With the rockers hitting the retainers? Not a good idea, unless you plan on tearing that motor apart soon. They need to miss, and in order to do that, according to the installation instructions that come with the cams, you need to do a mild grind to have the proper clearance.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, you guys are right. Now if I only had those "instructions" that several of you mentioned about, I probably wouldn't have to go through all this. If you plan to buy Crower Cams with their springs/retainers, be prepared to grind those rocker arms.

I removed the cams and inspected the rocker arms and Crower titanium retainers and sure enough, the rocker arms left little scratches where it would contact the retainer. I'll post pics later for those that want to see.

Plus, while I was at it, I measured the stock H22A cams and the Crower Stage 2 cams. Interesting numbers, which again, I will post later.

Thanks to those that replied.

 

I have stage 3's and with +60installed height retainers and had to grind them all "ALOT" to get the motor to clear after i clayed it. just don't grind it and then assemble.. clay it afterwards.. if not you may in for a suprise.. check the tolorences..

what retainers did you use ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HotWheelz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have stage 3's and with +60installed height retainers and had to grind them all "ALOT" to get the motor to clear after i clayed it. just don't grind it and then assemble.. clay it afterwards.. if not you may in for a suprise.. check the tolorences..

what retainers did you use ?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you mean by having it "clayed"?

I have the complete crower valvetrain: valves, springs, retainers, and cams.

Pics below are for those who are interested:

Close-up of Crower Stainless steel valve with swirl polish.


Area where rocker-arm and titanium retainer have clearance problems.


Here's another one.


Here's the scratches left by those two hitting eachother.


Another picture of rocker-arm/retainer interference.


Area of rocker-arm that will get grinded down.


Bottom of H22A cylinder head, ported and polished, valve seats cut.

 

I'm not an expert, but what I think clayed means is putting a little bit of a clay like material that will crush on your pistons, and then put the head on, turn the motor over, take the head off, and check for clearance of the valves not hitting the pistons. With the stage 2 cams, you should be ok. I kept the stock valves with my stage 2 crower set up and had no issues. Not sure if the crower valves will change that, but you may want to be sure. Stage 3 setups is where I have heard the most clearance issues.

And as I stated, all my rockers had to be ground down enough to clear the retainers.

Just curious, you didn't have the motor running when you realized this, it was still in the installation process you noticed an issue, right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94vtecmn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not an expert, but what I think clayed means is putting a little bit of a clay like material that will crush on your pistons, and then put the head on, turn the motor over, take the head off, and check for clearance of the valves not hitting the pistons. With the stage 2 cams, you should be ok. I kept the stock valves with my stage 2 crower set up and had no issues. Not sure if the crower valves will change that, but you may want to be sure. Stage 3 setups is where I have heard the most clearance issues.

Just curious, you didn't have the motor running when you realized this, it was still in the installation process you noticed an issue, right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I sent the cylinder head and valves out to Headwerks. There, they measured the Crower valves and compared them with the old ones. They were fine. Headwerks cut out the valve seats and cleaned up the cylinder head. I installed the valve springs/retainers, cams, and the rest of the things.

The engine was still on the engine stand when I realized I had valve clearance problems.