Just wondering if anyone has these cams in a b18b or b20 setup and drive daily? I haven't installed my cams yet because I'm still breaking in the motor, but I was wondering if daily driving with these cams would be a good idea. And has anyone taken long trips with these cams installed? I will be driving from Dallas to Houston (31/2hrs) quite frequently in the near future and I am not sure if I will be able to do so with these cams and a b16a tranny.

 

Is your goal to build alot of non vtec power?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by silvan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is your goal to build alot of non vtec power? </TD></TR></TABLE>

what's that suppose to mean!

 

I have 403's and daily drive it. I still get awesome gas mileage and I lowered the idle very low so it's lumpy and the car shakes, just sounds too cool and I couldn't resist. I have heard quite a bit about 404's being a bitch to idle correctly.... So good luck with that. As far as daily driven, there are a few around these boards and g2ic.com that run them as daily driven cars. With a b16 tranny and 404 expect not so great gas mileage is my guess. At startup you can smell gas from my car. Is your bototm end built? You also getting the valvetrain? If not don't bother with 404's and just get 403's you'll be suprised how hard they pull up top.

 

no problem to daily drive them

 

If you read my sig my head is has crower dual valve springs. The head can handle the cam I just don't know If I can!

 

Oops, my bad I didn't see that. Well lets see..... I have crower valvetrain as well, and have 30 milled off my head. The guy clayed it and said the head was good to 60 thousandths with the cams. I'd say with your milled head and 404's you are really asking for it, and would be extremely nessacery to clay the motor.

 

I clayed my engine when I rebuilt it and I have plenty of clearance as far as that goes. The vave reliefs on my pistons provide plenty of room for advancement. I'm wanting info from people who have these cams and if daily driving is unpleasant or not due to the heavy *** lope these cams produce.

 

ttt

 

Well there are topics in the search that you could sorta check out 1st.
But I'll try to help you out.

You should not break in the motor with these cams. Use stock ones for now. You will need hondata or a AFC to get the cams to even Idel. You can set your idel to about 800-900rpms for a even smooth idel for like some people drop the idel down to like 500-650 for a lumpy idel.

one you get the cams tunned and the fuel tunned you should not have any issuse with driving long distance. Gas milage shouldn't bee really bad. 404 cams makes great power on the B20. Do search bro. Let me know if you need any links

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Do a search bro.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I have done searches before. I was more interested in starting a new thread. Sometimes it gets old searching for through all the old archives and maybe there is someone new that has some input. So searching is a good idea but I would rather like updated info.

 

Slowpoke,

What did you run in the 1/4 with ur cams? and could u list your mods as well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20ek &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well I have done searches before. I was more interested in starting a new thread. Sometimes it gets old searching for through all the old archives and maybe there is someone new that has some input. So searching is a good idea but I would rather like updated info.</TD></TR></TABLE>

very good point. But people with these cams have only started to use them this past 6months to a year so the limited people who run them arn't going to be seeing any big changes or discovery over that time period. if you look way back in 2000 people were still talking about ITB, B16 on gsr head, CTR pistons, building D16 all that good stuff. Info doesn't change that much from what I've seen. If there is a change ...(new product or discovery) you'll mostlikely know about it.
check out this link.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=520581 read though it if you haven't and check out the last 3 pages

 

I've already read that entire post!

 

Hey I had my 404s in for about three weeks and i loved them. Great pull all the way to red line. I would KILL GSRs ITRS and preludes off the line. great addition for a non-vtec engine. Only reason i took them out was bc i went FI. they only have about 600 miles on them. if you want to take them off my hands ill give them to you for 250.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well there are topics in the search that you could sorta check out 1st.
But I'll try to help you out.

You should not break in the motor with these cams. Use stock ones for now. You will need hondata or a AFC to get the cams to even Idel. You can set your idel to about 800-900rpms for a even smooth idel for like some people drop the idel down to like 500-650 for a lumpy idel.

one you get the cams tunned and the fuel tunned you should not have any issuse with driving long distance. Gas milage shouldn't bee really bad. 404 cams makes great power on the B20. Do search bro. Let me know if you need any links</TD></TR></TABLE>

I read about a guy on here who just dropped the 404's in his b20, and messed with thte idle screw a lil bit and the bitch idled just fine..

I'm getting the 404's in a week or two, and im gonna be using an AFC and im gonna experiment with a chipped ecu

 

good news!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djay86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I read about a guy on here who just dropped the 404's in his b20, and messed with thte idle screw a lil bit and the bitch idled just fine..

I'm getting the 404's in a week or two, and im gonna be using an AFC and im gonna experiment with a chipped ecu</TD></TR></TABLE>

that guy might of been jnixproof99 who had that short term setup in a EG. I've spoke with him as well. let me see if I can cut and past my coversation with him.

BTW you said you read that entire post..... Well IM those guys who had a lot to say about the cams and also the guys who are running them. I'm a IM **** so I know most of them are nice and if you ask them they will give you more info on the details how how everything is running, issue they migh have had. ect.

hope that helps if you still don't find the answer IM me personally and I'll try to help you out with a few H-tech memebrs you can talk to.

HTH
best of luck

 

this is what i found in my note book.... note my conversations with Jason(jnixprooff) but from his really old thread.
----
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Let's put this into more perspective real quick to point out how bad-*** this is:

My car is a stripped (2040lbs.) CX with a 1998 USDM ITR swap. Bone stock except for intake, exhaust, and a re-chipped P28 ECU. My set-up is good for 175whp and 123ft/lbs. of torque.

At 1100ft. above sea level on M/T 20''x8'' slicks I ran 13.3@99mph.

Now my ITR swap didn't cost me nearly as much as others because some local idiot sold it to me after getting rear-ended for only $4,000 (whole car) BUT a lot of people pay upwards of $5,000 for the ITR swap.

Makes you wonder why people buy ITR swaps for a drag-oriented cars, huh?

How much money do you think is in that set-up Jinxproof?

&lt;IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.zeroforum.com/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"&gt;Bad-*** times bro!&lt;IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://images.zeroforum.com/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"&gt;


[Modified by B18C5-EH2, 11:11 AM 6/29/2002]</TD></TR></TABLE>


thanx man. i guess i would break it down like this:
b20b block and head - $800
cams/springs/retainers(new) - $800
skunk2 intake - $300
axles/half shaft/mounts/other bullshit - $500
b16 tranny - $400-500
obd 1 ls ecu rechipped - $250-300

about $3100 but you can find stuff cheaper if you look around. you could also do it with a ls block and head for probably $500 cheaper and make close to as much power.

i also have intake, header, exhaust, afc, fuel pressure regulator, cam gears...........but you would add most of that with any swap.
------
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What ecu are your using? along with which afc, and how much did the cams cost, what's your redline, was it hard to get it to idle right? </TD></TR></TABLE>


i am using an obd1 ls ecu. stock map w 8500 rev limit. apex s-afc. cams run about $370 for both, i think. idle wasn't bad with stock cam timing. with them set at +4 intake/-4 exhaust....its a little rough. but i've adjusted it to about 1000 rpms and it sits there fine.
-------------------------------------

hope that was usefull. I'll try to find some more info if you really need it.

 

A local AZ HT guy here in town had the 404's in his B20 and he was making great power. But he didn't really speak very highly of them for a daily driver. I think he got so sick of messing with them (plus he wanted MORE power) that he switched to a vtec head so he could have the mild lobe for a friendlier daily driver.

Run a search on posts that he's participated in and try to find what he says. I'll check for his handle. I would do it for you but theres alot of threads that he's posted in and and I don't have time to do the research for you.

EDIT: his s/n is: HX_Guy
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=69060


Modified by BlueTeg at 6:10 PM 8/14/2003

 

blueteg what cams r u runnin in you rls again?

 

62403's
I'm very happy with them.....

....but of course now I want more.
I bought a B20 block last weekend. Now I'm just waiting to get the money to pay for the right pistons/exhaust plumbing/install fees.

Shooting for 170 whp and 140 tq.

 

you gonna supercharger her after that? if would be the only logical step for more hp after that. Supercharger pro has a good setup up with only 23% heat sink from the charged air, compared to jrsc at 46% and 73% for the vortech

 

I've thought about it.

But thats just more money I don't have.

...yet.

 

i just recently slapped some 404's in my car... i like it a lot... its a daily driver... stock bottom end... i have mild P&P head... skunk2 intake manifold, crower valvetrain. and i took the middle layer outta my head gasket. its a fun car to drive...my idle isnt the best in the world... but my car gears arent tuned yet.. and my fuel system is still stock.. i just bought an inline pump and a feilds afc... ill post dyno numbers after all that is installed and tuned.

but as far as drivin it and having problems... i would say it would be okay