I painted my calipers and installed some stainless steel brake lines two days ago and now my brake is not working properly. My brake pedal would lose its pressure slowly as I press on it (engine running). If the enging is turn off, the brake would feel fine ( no losing pressure). I bleeded all the caliper until there were no air in there. I'm not sure if I did it right but when bleeding, (make sure all brake line and bleeding hole are tighten) I pressed the brake pedal several time while my friend bleed it till the fluid spray like a stream. After that, I pumped several time and hold it down while my friend bleed it once. We continued this process 3 or 4 time for each caliper. If this is the right process than I don't know what my problem is right now. I bleed it again today and it still feels the same. Could there still be air in the system or is there a totally different way to bleed it if you completely drain all the fluid from the brake cylinder. Before I installed these brake lines, my brake were fine.


Modified by viperguy at 11:36 AM 7/28/2003

 

Same thing happened to me when I swaped on the Legend calipers and replaced my ss lines. What happened was air got into the abs system. The system is under close to 2000psi so you`ll need a special tool. Thats probably what you`re experiencing too.

 

So if I get that secial tool, what do I do to it? This is a big break in the case, it seem like we're getting somewhere right now.

 

anybody!

 

Did you bleed them in the right order?

 

Did you bleed the brakes in the correct order (pass. rear, driver front, etc)? Is your master cylinder in good shape? No disapereing fluid?

The tool is a long hollow shaft with a handel bar and a fluid tank at the top. At the end that goes over the bleeder, theres a square socket. With the bleeder closed, cycle the abs actuators for about 5-10 seconds. When you stop the actuators open the bleeder. Listen to the abs when your cycling them. You want it to sound like its straining. Keep bleeding if if it sounds like its working too easily. I had to bleed it 4 or 5 times.

Hope this helps!

 

I bleed it (front left, front right, rear left , rear right). This was the order that bleed it in. Arn't you suppose to bleed the closest one to the brake cylinder first than bleed the farthest one last. If I bleed it in the wrong order, could that be the problem. Even if I bleed it right, I still have to bleed from the ABS system right. Any idea how much that special tool is from honda or can I buy from some other place. My brake cylinder is in perfect shape, no dissapearing fluid. How do you cycle the ABS actuator. If I can get a tool to release or open this square bleeder hole, can I do it.

 

Yes the order makes a diff. Normally you go from the furthest caliper to the closest. FWDs are a little different tho due to the perportioning valve and the front brakes doing 90% of the work.

Heres the order: pass. rear, driver front, driver rear, pass. front. This could likely be the problem your having.

If that doesn't work you'll need to get the abs bled. I'd take it to a shop unless you really know what you're doing. The tool you have to get from Honda. I've not priced one yet and I don't even know if they'll sell them.

I'd have to look at my Helms to tell you what to pull to cycle the abs but I won't be back home till next week. If I were you, I'd rebleed the calipers to get some pedal and then take it to a shop and let them do it. I've only done it once and I had a service tech help me.

 

Thanks for all the help. I'll bleed it again in the right order and see what happen.