what axles do you guys use?
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I forgot more about hondas then you will ever know....
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From: hop,skip, and a jump from the city,, new friggin york, USA
well, here is my story...
i annilated 2 driveshaft shop axles (one outer cv shattered, the other excessive play on both the inner and outer cv's resulting in a hell of a vibration, both of them stage one) autocrossing, and chalked it up to dss axles being garbage, as i never broke a stock one.
this past weekend i have a different view... i broke a oem axle with 5,000 miles on it that i bought new, this past weekend. i don't make dick for hp (187whp), so wtf is going on?
my question do any of you have issued with axles? or am i just a freak of nature? (comments welcome/expected
) seriously though, the car is not "slammed", although lower than my taste would warrant. the control arm is parallel with the ground while under it's own weight, so i did not radically change the geometry. any recomendations (other than dss) would be helpful. i spoke with raxles.com, and they told me to use their imsa/scca axles, that i would not have any problems, but i don't wanna keep spending $500 every few months on axles
i am at a loss here....
Modified by rodney at 5:55 PM 7/21/2003
i annilated 2 driveshaft shop axles (one outer cv shattered, the other excessive play on both the inner and outer cv's resulting in a hell of a vibration, both of them stage one) autocrossing, and chalked it up to dss axles being garbage, as i never broke a stock one.
this past weekend i have a different view... i broke a oem axle with 5,000 miles on it that i bought new, this past weekend. i don't make dick for hp (187whp), so wtf is going on?
my question do any of you have issued with axles? or am i just a freak of nature? (comments welcome/expected
) seriously though, the car is not "slammed", although lower than my taste would warrant. the control arm is parallel with the ground while under it's own weight, so i did not radically change the geometry. any recomendations (other than dss) would be helpful. i spoke with raxles.com, and they told me to use their imsa/scca axles, that i would not have any problems, but i don't wanna keep spending $500 every few months on axles
i am at a loss here....Modified by rodney at 5:55 PM 7/21/2003
Thread Starter
I forgot more about hondas then you will ever know....
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: hop,skip, and a jump from the city,, new friggin york, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">raxles has a lifetime warranty. i dunno what marty means be "scca" axles, but i trust his work.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks tyson. i spoke with marty, and he by far was the nicest, but i wanted to see if anyone had anything bad/good to say about him or others. thanks.
thanks tyson. i spoke with marty, and he by far was the nicest, but i wanted to see if anyone had anything bad/good to say about him or others. thanks.
Thread Starter
I forgot more about hondas then you will ever know....
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 5,310
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From: hop,skip, and a jump from the city,, new friggin york, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Maxx44 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kind of car?</TD></TR></TABLE>
integra type R yo!
integra type R yo!
Fan of the Advanced Auto lifetime replacement warranty.
Not a fan of replacing axles.
But at $69 bucks with a core...
I think they have two levels of axles.
Oh, and obviously you're a freak of nature.
Not a fan of replacing axles.
But at $69 bucks with a core...
I think they have two levels of axles.
Oh, and obviously you're a freak of nature.
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How are your motor mounts? Excessive engine movement in a FWD car can cause really nasty binding problems and really alter your drivetrain geometry when the suspension is fully compressed.
Thread Starter
I forgot more about hondas then you will ever know....
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 5,310
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From: hop,skip, and a jump from the city,, new friggin york, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Def »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How are your motor mounts? </TD></TR></TABLE>
my mounts are perfect shape and quite stiff. in fact, my door and bumper jiggle when the car idles...
my mounts are perfect shape and quite stiff. in fact, my door and bumper jiggle when the car idles...
I think you may be on the right track with ride height...I was chewing them regularly, just keep rasing the car slightly and haven't broken one since. Maybe try another cheap set w/ slightly higher ride and see what happens, good luck
Thread Starter
I forgot more about hondas then you will ever know....
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 5,310
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From: hop,skip, and a jump from the city,, new friggin york, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tunes12 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Seriuosly though, with the autozone axles, isn't it only a one time lifetime replacement?</TD></TR></TABLE>
well, that is just it. i don't wanna constantly replace them. i wanna swap in a good set and be done with it.
well, that is just it. i don't wanna constantly replace them. i wanna swap in a good set and be done with it.
I will never ever get the "cheap" axles.. Morgan has seen more problems w/ them then anything else.. I kept breaking outer CVs because of to much caster in the front, might be something worth checking on your car.. I have had great luck w/ RAXLES and is equalvilant to OEM and cheaper.. Also find the OEM "jdm" axles to be cheap on ebay and work well as well.. Just make sure they are made by either Honda or RAXLES
chris,
I think you failed to add some very important info here.
1) You have a very strong LSD
2) You run 225 Hoosier AS303's
3) Your car is pretty low.
4) You run alot of negative camber.
5) You set FTD way too often.
6) I have a maid to replace my broken axles, so I don't care.
But, just taking 1 through 4 into account, I would say your suspension runs at some geometries that it was not designed for from Honda. I would also venture to say that the strong diff, coupled with the grippiest tires is putting a ton of stress on your driveshafts. Imagine what happens when you were getting on the gas pulling out of that tight medium speed corner, like the one where it snapped on sunday. Both wheels want to turn at different speeds, but your LSD and tires don't want to let them. Something to think about.
I think you failed to add some very important info here.
1) You have a very strong LSD
2) You run 225 Hoosier AS303's
3) Your car is pretty low.
4) You run alot of negative camber.
5) You set FTD way too often.
6) I have a maid to replace my broken axles, so I don't care.
But, just taking 1 through 4 into account, I would say your suspension runs at some geometries that it was not designed for from Honda. I would also venture to say that the strong diff, coupled with the grippiest tires is putting a ton of stress on your driveshafts. Imagine what happens when you were getting on the gas pulling out of that tight medium speed corner, like the one where it snapped on sunday. Both wheels want to turn at different speeds, but your LSD and tires don't want to let them. Something to think about.
Thread Starter
I forgot more about hondas then you will ever know....
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 5,310
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From: hop,skip, and a jump from the city,, new friggin york, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KekeK_5G »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
6) I have a maid to replace my broken axles, so I don't care.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
damn yuppies.... i went through all the scenario's, and i think i should just get a stronger axle. i spoke with raxles today, and he by far was the nicest on the phone (and a autocrosser
) so, i think i will give his a shot, and if they break again and we can;t figure it out, i will go with the dss roadrace axles ($650!)
hey keke, how did the car look out on course?
6) I have a maid to replace my broken axles, so I don't care.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
damn yuppies.... i went through all the scenario's, and i think i should just get a stronger axle. i spoke with raxles today, and he by far was the nicest on the phone (and a autocrosser
) so, i think i will give his a shot, and if they break again and we can;t figure it out, i will go with the dss roadrace axles ($650!)hey keke, how did the car look out on course?
Thread Starter
I forgot more about hondas then you will ever know....
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 5,310
Likes: 1
From: hop,skip, and a jump from the city,, new friggin york, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda318dx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Low car w/ lots - camber will break any axles... </TD></TR></TABLE>
it's not that low..
camber is currently -2.7 degrees up front
it's not that low..
camber is currently -2.7 degrees up front
I have always been happy with the axles I have gotten from Raxles (and Marty is real good to deal with), not that I have been putting down a lot of horse power...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KekeK_5G »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">chris,
I think you failed to add some very important info here.
1) You have a very strong LSD
2) You run 225 Hoosier AS303's
3) Your car is pretty low.
4) You run alot of negative camber.
5) You set FTD way too often.
6) I have a maid to replace my broken axles, so I don't care.
But, just taking 1 through 4 into account, I would say your suspension runs at some geometries that it was not designed for from Honda. I would also venture to say that the strong diff, coupled with the grippiest tires is putting a ton of stress on your driveshafts. Imagine what happens when you were getting on the gas pulling out of that tight medium speed corner, like the one where it snapped on sunday. Both wheels want to turn at different speeds, but your LSD and tires don't want to let them. Something to think about.</TD></TR></TABLE>
agreed 100%.
i have not heard the best stories about raxles althuogh i've never used them first hand, and most of the guys i hang around have more experience with drag racing.
discount auto axles are not going to hold up, and you would have to expect failure at all times and i don't believe its worth it.
if i were you, i'd consider going with a different differential like a quaiffe which may not offer the same type of limited slip...but make things a little easier on your axles. as is the case with our cars, there is always a compromise between reliability, cost and performance and it seems like you are just at the limit...
your setup tests the axle under every stress point imaginable, and when exclusively auto-xing the car every weekend you are going to eventually find the point where things start to break.
i don't think the height of the car is your main problem, although maybe a contributing factor, as everyone i've talked to recommends the control arms to be parallel to the pavement.
my dad, who has practical experience with fwd cars and 30+ years of life experience with cars says it is the differnetial as well. while the diff is putting power to both wheels, causing one wheel to travel a further distance the axle itself is going to take the brunt of the horsepower being transferred to that wheel.
i myself have never been a fan of this type of LSD because i think it contributes to push...although i believe you are used to your setup and its clear you run amazing times with the setup you have.
in the end all you can do is spend money on different axles in order to see which lasts the longest. while i'm skeptical about raxles and their ability to withstand the abuse your car puts axles through, i think they are worth a try. there are also stage 4 and stage 5 axles which use bigger joints and stronger axles...which means you could be putting pressure on the next weakest link in the drivetrain which might be even more expensive to repair.
just my 2 cents...although i've told you all of this over AOL IM before.
I think you failed to add some very important info here.
1) You have a very strong LSD
2) You run 225 Hoosier AS303's
3) Your car is pretty low.
4) You run alot of negative camber.
5) You set FTD way too often.
6) I have a maid to replace my broken axles, so I don't care.
But, just taking 1 through 4 into account, I would say your suspension runs at some geometries that it was not designed for from Honda. I would also venture to say that the strong diff, coupled with the grippiest tires is putting a ton of stress on your driveshafts. Imagine what happens when you were getting on the gas pulling out of that tight medium speed corner, like the one where it snapped on sunday. Both wheels want to turn at different speeds, but your LSD and tires don't want to let them. Something to think about.</TD></TR></TABLE>
agreed 100%.
i have not heard the best stories about raxles althuogh i've never used them first hand, and most of the guys i hang around have more experience with drag racing.
discount auto axles are not going to hold up, and you would have to expect failure at all times and i don't believe its worth it.
if i were you, i'd consider going with a different differential like a quaiffe which may not offer the same type of limited slip...but make things a little easier on your axles. as is the case with our cars, there is always a compromise between reliability, cost and performance and it seems like you are just at the limit...
your setup tests the axle under every stress point imaginable, and when exclusively auto-xing the car every weekend you are going to eventually find the point where things start to break.
i don't think the height of the car is your main problem, although maybe a contributing factor, as everyone i've talked to recommends the control arms to be parallel to the pavement.
my dad, who has practical experience with fwd cars and 30+ years of life experience with cars says it is the differnetial as well. while the diff is putting power to both wheels, causing one wheel to travel a further distance the axle itself is going to take the brunt of the horsepower being transferred to that wheel.
i myself have never been a fan of this type of LSD because i think it contributes to push...although i believe you are used to your setup and its clear you run amazing times with the setup you have.
in the end all you can do is spend money on different axles in order to see which lasts the longest. while i'm skeptical about raxles and their ability to withstand the abuse your car puts axles through, i think they are worth a try. there are also stage 4 and stage 5 axles which use bigger joints and stronger axles...which means you could be putting pressure on the next weakest link in the drivetrain which might be even more expensive to repair.
just my 2 cents...although i've told you all of this over AOL IM before.
Thread Starter
I forgot more about hondas then you will ever know....
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 5,310
Likes: 1
From: hop,skip, and a jump from the city,, new friggin york, USA
well, i took apart the latest victim (it didn't even rip the boot!) and this is the common site every few thousand miles...
it would be funny if i am breaking the 700hp+ axles with my measily motor...
it would be funny if i am breaking the 700hp+ axles with my measily motor...
Thread Starter
I forgot more about hondas then you will ever know....
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 5,310
Likes: 1
From: hop,skip, and a jump from the city,, new friggin york, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda318dx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What motor mounts are you using?</TD></TR></TABLE>
mugen with energy insert on the bottom front 2 (to stop the motor from rocking and the p/s pump pulley hitting the headlight...)
mugen with energy insert on the bottom front 2 (to stop the motor from rocking and the p/s pump pulley hitting the headlight...)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rodney »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
mugen with energy insert on the bottom front 2 (to stop the motor from rocking and the p/s pump pulley hitting the headlight...)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe a stupid question Chris but, what axles does Yasu run?
I mean his car is damn powerful, is at least as low as yours or lower, uses the same LSD, etc...
Face it, You're definitely quick, but, you break lotsa sh*t!
Played golf today, got your call, I'll call you tomorrow bro. I'm beat. Gotta inspect the ShIzZlE fIzZlE r tomorrow.
mugen with energy insert on the bottom front 2 (to stop the motor from rocking and the p/s pump pulley hitting the headlight...)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe a stupid question Chris but, what axles does Yasu run?
I mean his car is damn powerful, is at least as low as yours or lower, uses the same LSD, etc...
Face it, You're definitely quick, but, you break lotsa sh*t!
Played golf today, got your call, I'll call you tomorrow bro. I'm beat. Gotta inspect the ShIzZlE fIzZlE r tomorrow.
It's always the outer joint that blows up? Most of the upgrades I have seen have discussed using a different steel for the shaft that is not as hard and can also wind up more under load. The explanation of what their upgrade is sounds like a very drag race oriented solution.
Could you be reaching the limit of the slots in the outer and inner cages? If so, the ***** would bottom. Stronger joints would not help much in this case, only joints made for a larger angle. I can't really see from the pics if there is wear or damage on the ends of the slots.
Does anyone know what is used by the Speed Chanenge cars? Does your car locate the differential output in the same place front to back and up to down versus the suspension as a Type R? If not, that could add extra angle to the axles.
Another thought is the possibility of the axles bottoming in the inner joint and putting an outward load on the outer joint. The inner is a heavy tripod joint with thicker parts than the outer, so it probably can take more load than the outer. Some of the RR/autox axles claim to use a shorter shaft to deal with the lower ride height and full use of suspension travel.
Could you be reaching the limit of the slots in the outer and inner cages? If so, the ***** would bottom. Stronger joints would not help much in this case, only joints made for a larger angle. I can't really see from the pics if there is wear or damage on the ends of the slots.
Does anyone know what is used by the Speed Chanenge cars? Does your car locate the differential output in the same place front to back and up to down versus the suspension as a Type R? If not, that could add extra angle to the axles.
Another thought is the possibility of the axles bottoming in the inner joint and putting an outward load on the outer joint. The inner is a heavy tripod joint with thicker parts than the outer, so it probably can take more load than the outer. Some of the RR/autox axles claim to use a shorter shaft to deal with the lower ride height and full use of suspension travel.



