No CELs, not overheating, no any other types of warnings.

In any gear at WOT up until about 2500 RPMs my car will studder repeatedly very fast. Once the revs reach 2500 it goes back to perfectly normal. Sometimes you can feel it if you're not at WOT but its not as drastic.

My first initial fears were clutch and tranny, but i hope not and i'm starting to doubt them.

Maybe its some kind of spark problem? or ignition timing? Once or twice it did studder up around 4 or 5k but most of the time it doesnt. Any ideas? It may even be the knock sensor or the wiring like a few others have found.

 

No ideas? It rides fine the majority of the time and you wouldn't even notice this porblem... unless you drop RPMs below 2.5

 

Fouled plug maybe?

 

What I noticed in my car is that when my knock sensor would sense knock and relay that to the ecu and it would retard the timing, my exhaust tone would change. So if your exhaust tone changes when you feel the problem it may very well be your knock.

 

I kinda thought that i noticed the exhaust note changing, but i dont know if it actually was or i just thought that from the feeling. I'll try to give it another try tomorrow. Thanks for the input though.

 

replace your EGR valve

 

any explanation as to why it happens at low low RPMs and nowhere else?

and doesnt EGR throw a code?

 

Well, from what I've learned your timing has quite a bit to do with low end torque and throttle response. Thats why people say advancing your timing a few degrees with give you good low end and throttle response. When your engine has really retarded timing on the low end you will definately notice it since it needs a good 15 degrees or so.

 

Your EGR would throw a code if it were clogged or the vacuum line was disconnected.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4bidden &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, from what I've learned your timing has quite a bit to do with low end torque and throttle response. Thats why people say advancing your timing a few degrees with give you good low end and throttle response. When your engine has really retarded timing on the low end you will definately notice it since it needs a good 15 degrees or so. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm sorry but timing is advanced for high RPM power, not retarded. The reason you felt a loss at low RPM when the timing is pulled back is because its pulled waaaaay back.

 

Are you sure? Everything I've ever read stated advancing will improve the midrange.

 

my del sol has been doing the exact same thing....IT IS THE EGR VALVE...it is true that it will throw a code, but only when it is registering that it is doing something wrong, and it the computers "mind" it is doing exactly what it is supposed to do, and putting the already spent sxhaust gasses back into the motor, it is just putting too much in there, and stalling out the motor for a tenth of a sec or so...it only threw a check engine light once or twice in 3 weeks in my car...in the end it took my friend coming over and replacing it without me knowing to believe him, he has a crx who's best time is a 8.80 and works at a import shop here, and works on anything from a volvo to a ferrari...so from now on i listen to his opinions

A complete stranger would not have any reason to lie to you...just try the EGR valve...if i am wrong hate me for life...if not your welcome

by the way....your welcome

 

I think a lot of people usually try this as the culprit first, I know I did at least. Mine is blocked off anyways so unless it throws a CEL I'm good to go.

 

That's exactly what happened w/ my old H23. I woulda tried to go through it to figure out what it was, but it's gone now. Good luck! It bugged the hell outta me for a year!

 

haha, it just went away??? haha..

I had planned on installing my GC's and AGX's tomorrow so while i'm workin on the car i'm gonna pull the EGR valve and clean it out real good and throw it back on, see what happens.

While i was driving today it was doin the studdering thing in any gear at WOT at all RPMs.... i could even feel it at about half throttle sometimes, its defintaely lacking power.

 

Hey Munsher,
My 95 lude is doing the EXACT same thing. I also hope that it's not my clutch/flywheel, but from my research it seems like an EGR thing or some kinda fuel thing.

However, I did install DSM injectors w/o doing anything else. It worked fantastic for the first 50 miles or so and then the stuttering started.

I'm gonna try putting my old injectors in, but dunno if that's really the problem.

 

it did go away for a while, but i meant my motor's gone; i hydrolocked it and it snapped a rod, destroying my block.

 

I've had my egr disconnected for 4 years. No cel no hesitation. My car started shuddering about a month ago. If its not the wiring for the coil, I'm gonna try the knock sensor.

 

Egr will throw a code. However, it is unlikely to produce a check engine light. I played with it when I had a scan tool from school. I disconnected the Vacuum hose and sure enough, it showed up as a code. Forgot which one though.

 

Code 12

 

Sounds right

 

Oh, well stupid me thought that unless the CEL light was on that there were no codes being thrown. Guess i can find the wire and check for codes.

anyone got a link to the procedure on hand? didn't find it with a quick search.

EDIT: Found the procedure on Toronto Prelude Club's website under MAINTENANCE.

Jumpered the connections and turned the key to the ON position. The CEL comes on and stays on but does not flash... i'm assuming no codes? Hrmmm...


Modified by munscher at 2:40 PM 7/13/2003

 

What exactly do you mean you jumpered the connections. You need a obd diagnostic tool to read codes my freind.

 

Your fine munscher, you're not throwing any codes. I think these guys are talking about "soft codes" that will not show until you trip another CEL.

 

I had that problem on my car. If the RPMs were anything below 2000-2500 in any gear and I gassed it would just hesitate and studder. I took out my spark plugs and they were pretty black. Wiped them off and it stopped for part of the day and came back. Now I have new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and fuel filter and it's gone. When was the last time you changed plugs? I thought mine were okay. But I think they maybe have been "carbon fouled". Check here for reference to plug conditions: http://www.nightrider.com/bike...k.htm It might be the same problem for you if you haven't changed plugs in a while. But, what you explained was my situation too. Drove perfectly fine after 2500+ RPMS.