92-95 Civic warning beep when lights left on (LONG)!
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Adding a 92-95 Civic warning beep when lights left on (LONG)
One of the only ergonomic flaws in the 92-95 Civic is the lack of a warning that you have left your lights on. It does it if you leave your key in, but not if you leave your lights on. I have a 94, and I know 93’s have this “problem” as well, but I don’t know about 95’s. I would assume they are the same.
I have devised a way to create a warning . It is a bit of work, but it is actually pretty simple, and it will make the same sound as if you leave your key in the ignition (the bee bee bee beep.) In fact, what this does it make the car think you have left the key in the ignition.
This is a really long piece of writing, which includes basic info on switches and relays.
WARNING: I am not to blame if you mess it up. It works, but if you get the relays info wrong, or misread your relay info, or can't solder, or short stuff, it won't.
WARNING 2: Do NOT disconnect the SRS (yellow) harnesses.
THINGS YOU NEED:
-Wires
-Project box (or something to put the stuff in)
-Soldering Iron/Solder. (The connections on the relay may be too small to just wrap the wire around)
-Relays (X2)
-quick wire connects (optional)
Unless you don't mind the buzzer going off every time you open the door with the lights on while the car is on, you need TWO relays. I will explain how to do it with two first, so that the buzzer goes on only when the car is off, and your lights are on, and you open the door (much like the key in the ignition buzzer when the car is off and you open the door).
Using this method, you require two relays, one of which has a Normally Closed function.
RELAY BASICS:
Relays work by using a "signal" voltage to trip a switch. This signal voltage creates a magnetic field which closes a normally open switch. In tech-speak, and open switch passes no electricity, while a closed switch does. In this case, the signal is the "lights" power, and when that is on, the switch state changes. The "normally" part refers to the state of the switch when the relay signal is not present. That is, when no voltage is going through the relay coil.
Abbreviations:
NC = Normally closed
NO = Normally open
CO = Common
Most Automotive relays are of the NO variety, in which there are connectors for the signal (12 volt line) line, and connectors for another circuit which gets turned on when the signal is on.
However, there are other relays that have both an NO AND an NC connection, as well as a common connection. In this case, you can have the signal turn on, OR turn off another circuit. For this project, we will require one relay that does this.
I found 5A mini relays, in a DPDT configuration, which leads us to:
SWITCH BASICS:
A relay is just a controlled switch. Switches can come in any configuration, but more commonly are either SP or DP, and ST or DT.
S-ingle, D-ouble, P-ole, T-hrow.
What the does this mean? Well, single and double, I hope, are obvious.
Poles refer to how many connections are in that switch. A SP switch opens or closes one circuit; a DP switch opens or closes two independent circuits. Basically, a DP switch is two SP switches combined.
When thinking of throws, think of train tracks, and Y splits in the tracks. ST means that you have one track that has a break, and you are connecting it or not. DT is like a Y split in the track, in that you are connecting the track to one of the branches of the Y, the other branch of the Y, or neither. The track that is coming into the Y branch is usually referred to as the “common” connection on switches or relays, as it is common to both circuits
Okay, now that that is set out, we can continue on, and hopefully this information will make it easier to understand, and will be useful in future projects dealing with electronics.
THE PROJECT:
Background/Parts:
I will first explain what we are doing. Honda did something nice when wiring the 92-95 Civics (well, I am sure every company does this). A lot of the switches are ground controlled. That is, it is the ground connection which is switched, not the 12volt connection. This removes the need to use diodes to prevent the flow of electricity going into other circuits, because they are likely already in place “upstream”.
The door open/key in ignition buzzer is controlled by the Integrated Control Unit, which connects to the fuse box directly. When you have the key in the ignition, and you open the door, a circuit is activated by connecting to ground. Our goal is to tap into the wire going into the ICU from the ignition key-in, providing another ground. Basically, we are bypassing the key switch, and providing the ICU with another ground, which we will control, using relays so that it only grounds under certain conditions. For all intents and purposes, after this project is done, when you leave your lights on, pull your keys out, and open the door, the car thinks you have actually left the keys in the ignition.
I went to radio shack, and bought two 5amp mini-relays that were DPDT. I didn't find SPDT, but those would be acceptable, as we are only dealing with one circuit per relay. Note: Because we are dealing with cars, you need to get a relay that has a 12 volt coil (i.e. it uses 12 volt signal wire to trip the switch). The relay I found is capable of switching 120 volt circuits, but it will work equally well for 12 volts.
Radio Shack 5A DPDT relay.
Basically, what you are looking for is a relay that has 12 volt coil, and has both NC and NO poles. You can tell by looking at the back of the package, which shows the schematic. I can't get into details here, as different relays may be different.
I also bought a plastic project box to hold the relays, as you don’t want them just lying around.
What to do in the car? The most convenient place to get the connection points, I found, was in the lights/ashtray harness. Take apart the center console, and find the harness that connects to it. You will see three wires, one black (the ground), one red with a black stripe(the ashtray light), and one yellow with a red stripe (the accessory power, that powers the lighter).
This combination has a few features which make them convenient. While we are dealing with getting a warning about the external lights being on, when they are on, so is the ashtray light, making it a great tap in point and making it unnecessary to dig into and access the external light system. The same goes for the lighter. The lighter has power when the accessory power is on. We don't want the light warning going off when the key is in the car and the accessory power is on, because we would assume that you aren't going to be sitting in the car for hours with the lights on. This is to prevent you from leaving your car with the lights on, coming back only to find a car with a dead battery. You can change it to work any way you want, but the following will warn you about the lights when the car is off. There is also a ground wire there. Basically, everything we need is in that harness, and it is easy to access, and close to where we need it.
This is the logic of the circuit we are going to construct:
If LIGHTS = ON AND CAR ACCESSORY POWER = OFF, then BUZZER when DOOR = OPEN.
The buzzer is the same sound you get when you leave your key in the ignition and the car is off, and you open the door (bee bee bee beep). This can easily be made to make another sound if you were to go purchase a buzzer and run power to it.
PART ONE (RELAYS):
(See after the basic instructions to see how I did it to make it a bit easier)
You should disconnect the battery. If you don't, make certain to be careful with the wires, as you don't want to short stuff and blow fuses.
From the above mentioned harness. Either cut and strip, or carefully remove part of the sheath around the wires.
Now, go to your relays and mark them in some way so you know which one is going to be the "LIGHT" relay, and which one is going to be the "ACCESSORY POWER" (AC) relay. It is important to make this distinction, or the circuit will not work correctly.
On the relays I got, there are two sets of pins. There are two pins at the top, a gap, and then a set of six pins in two rows of three. Each row of three is a "Pole", so you don’t have to worry about the other three if you have a DP relay.
The two pins at the top are the 12v signal pins, used to trip the relay.
The three pins in a row are the NC, Common, and NO pins, and part of the circuit that will be switched on or off. The packaging of the relay should tell you which is which. In mine, the NC was the one closest to the signal pins, the common was in the middle (which it normally will always be), and the NO was at the end.
Have the wire prepared: 8 red, each about 4-6 inches long, 5 black wires, each about 4-6 inches long, and 1 short black wire (2 inches or less, depending on what you do, see below). Depending on the relays pin sizes, you may have to solder the wires. Also have a long black wire that can reach from the centre console to the back of the fuse box with slack.
NOTE: The best way, as I have described below, is to connect one set of wires to the relays, another set of wires to the harness wires, and use quick connects in between them. It is MUCH easier to do it this way, and you can disconnect it if you have to. Furthermore, quick-connects usually have different ends, and in so you can use one end for the LIGHT relay 12V wires, and the other ends for the AC 12V wires. That way, you don’t get the connections confused when putting it together, because if you do, it won't work properly.
What you want to do is first connect lead wires (2 x RED ) to the two 12v signal pins on the AC relay. One of these connects to the YELLOW/RED wire in the harness, and the other to the BLACK in the harness. It does not matter which goes to which, when dealing with the signal pins, but make sure you use the REDs, or whatever colour you have chosen other than black, so you know where it goes later on.
Then, what you want to do is run a lead wire (BLACK) from the BLACK wire in the harness to the NC pin of the AP relay (in this case, the pin closest to the two signal pins in the relay).
Next, connect the lead wires (2 x RED) to the LIGHT relay signal pins, using the RED/BLACK and BLACK wires in the harness. Again, these are the two isolated pins at the top of the relay, away from the two rows of three at the other end.
Next, connect a lead wire (BLACK) to the NO pin of the LIGHT relay, and for now, do not connect it to anything.
Finally, connect the two COMMON pins between the LIGHT relay, and the AP relay, using the short lead.
MAKE SURE you are using the three NC/CO/NO pins that are in the same row! Otherwise, you are connecting to a different circuit.
Now that the relay aspect is complete, we can move on. First, though, I would like to say how I did it, to make it easier. I basically made all the soldering connections before the connections to the harness. I got the plastic project box from RadioShack and drilled two holes, one on each end. The hole was big enough to allow three wires to pass through each one.
I then tapped the relays spine to spine, so the pins were facing away from each other:
I first got a lead that was exactly the length of the two relays, and connected it to the two common pins. Then I soldered all the other leads. After this, I fed the wires through the holes, so that the leads of each relay came out of its own hole. I then bought and added quick-connectors to the ends of the wires.
I then attached matching wires to the harness, and addedd quick-connects to those too.
Basically, what you should have is this (-----> = connects to)
RED/BLACK Harness wire--->Light relay 12v pin
BLACK harness wire ----> Light relay other 12v pin
YELLOW/RED Harness wire--->AP relay 12v pin
BLACK harness wire ---->AP relay other 12v pin
BLACK harness wire---->NC on AP relay
COMMON on AP relay ---> COMMON on Light relay
Unconnected BLACK wire -----> NO on Light relay (this connects to something that will be discussed later on).
TESTING:
Make sure the loose black wire coming from NO on Light relay is not touching anything metal, and connect the battery. We now have to test if the relays are actually working.
The first thing to do is, with the car off, turn on and off the lights several times. You should hear a clicking from the Light relay.
Next, turn the car on to Accessory (off and on), and you should hear clicking as well.
If yes, then this means that that part of the job is ready. If not, check the connections again.
STEP 2 (FUSE BOX):
The next step is to gain access to the Integrated Control Unit, which connects to the fuse box. More precisely, we need to get to the harness that connects to it
First set is to remove the under-dash cover, via screws, and the metal knee-bolster, via bolts.
Then, take off the two nuts that hold the fuse box to the frame.
The upper left of the fuse box has a harness connecting to it with three or so wires. Disconnect it (it is brown). It is the moonroof harness, and it makes it easy to pull the fusebox out (if you have it.)
If you manipulate the fusebox so you can see behind it, you will se this white box directly connecting to the back of it. Going into that is a 10 Pin harness, connecting right at the left (door side) edge. Disconnect it. Looking at the wires going into the harness, you will see two Blue wires with a white stripe. One is at the far edge of the harness, while the other is the second one in. You want the one at the far edge (i.e. the last wire.) If you look at the harness edge on (the edge that goes into the ICU), with the retention clip point up, it should be the one to the far right. I think this is the case, but I know 100% it is the blue/white wire that is the last wire on the harness, whereas the other blue/white wire is second in from the edge, next to a blue wire with a green stripe, on the other edge of the connector.If you are looking at the fuse box with that harness connected, it is the wire farthest away from you.
What you want to do is try to remove the sheath without cutting the wire, so you expose it. I say this because you have to go under the foot well to actually work with the harness, and if you cut it, it will be a real big pain to strip and reattach it.
The final step is to connect a BLACK wire to this wire, run it to the relays you have in the centre console area, and connect it to the lead coming out of the NO lead on the LIGHT relay. Yes, this is the unconnected wire mentioned above. Once this is done, test it. With the car off, keys out, and the lights on, open the door. If you hear the bee bee bee beep sound, it works! Put everything back together, put the box under the console and tuck in the wires, and your done!
That’s it!
FINAL NOTE: If you do not care if you get the warning while the car is one or the Accessory power is on, you only have to use ONE relay SPDT or DPDT relay, and do away with the ACCESSORY POWER relay all together. In this case, just connect a ground from the harness to the common pin, and the wire from the blue/white wire in the fuse harness for the ICU to the NO pin.
PM me with any questions.
Modified by Deam at 2:18 PM 7/8/2003
I have devised a way to create a warning . It is a bit of work, but it is actually pretty simple, and it will make the same sound as if you leave your key in the ignition (the bee bee bee beep.) In fact, what this does it make the car think you have left the key in the ignition.
This is a really long piece of writing, which includes basic info on switches and relays.
WARNING: I am not to blame if you mess it up. It works, but if you get the relays info wrong, or misread your relay info, or can't solder, or short stuff, it won't.
WARNING 2: Do NOT disconnect the SRS (yellow) harnesses.
THINGS YOU NEED:
-Wires
-Project box (or something to put the stuff in)
-Soldering Iron/Solder. (The connections on the relay may be too small to just wrap the wire around)
-Relays (X2)
-quick wire connects (optional)
Unless you don't mind the buzzer going off every time you open the door with the lights on while the car is on, you need TWO relays. I will explain how to do it with two first, so that the buzzer goes on only when the car is off, and your lights are on, and you open the door (much like the key in the ignition buzzer when the car is off and you open the door).
Using this method, you require two relays, one of which has a Normally Closed function.
RELAY BASICS:
Relays work by using a "signal" voltage to trip a switch. This signal voltage creates a magnetic field which closes a normally open switch. In tech-speak, and open switch passes no electricity, while a closed switch does. In this case, the signal is the "lights" power, and when that is on, the switch state changes. The "normally" part refers to the state of the switch when the relay signal is not present. That is, when no voltage is going through the relay coil.
Abbreviations:
NC = Normally closed
NO = Normally open
CO = Common
Most Automotive relays are of the NO variety, in which there are connectors for the signal (12 volt line) line, and connectors for another circuit which gets turned on when the signal is on.
However, there are other relays that have both an NO AND an NC connection, as well as a common connection. In this case, you can have the signal turn on, OR turn off another circuit. For this project, we will require one relay that does this.
I found 5A mini relays, in a DPDT configuration, which leads us to:
SWITCH BASICS:
A relay is just a controlled switch. Switches can come in any configuration, but more commonly are either SP or DP, and ST or DT.
S-ingle, D-ouble, P-ole, T-hrow.
What the does this mean? Well, single and double, I hope, are obvious.
Poles refer to how many connections are in that switch. A SP switch opens or closes one circuit; a DP switch opens or closes two independent circuits. Basically, a DP switch is two SP switches combined.
When thinking of throws, think of train tracks, and Y splits in the tracks. ST means that you have one track that has a break, and you are connecting it or not. DT is like a Y split in the track, in that you are connecting the track to one of the branches of the Y, the other branch of the Y, or neither. The track that is coming into the Y branch is usually referred to as the “common” connection on switches or relays, as it is common to both circuits
Okay, now that that is set out, we can continue on, and hopefully this information will make it easier to understand, and will be useful in future projects dealing with electronics.
THE PROJECT:
Background/Parts:
I will first explain what we are doing. Honda did something nice when wiring the 92-95 Civics (well, I am sure every company does this). A lot of the switches are ground controlled. That is, it is the ground connection which is switched, not the 12volt connection. This removes the need to use diodes to prevent the flow of electricity going into other circuits, because they are likely already in place “upstream”.
The door open/key in ignition buzzer is controlled by the Integrated Control Unit, which connects to the fuse box directly. When you have the key in the ignition, and you open the door, a circuit is activated by connecting to ground. Our goal is to tap into the wire going into the ICU from the ignition key-in, providing another ground. Basically, we are bypassing the key switch, and providing the ICU with another ground, which we will control, using relays so that it only grounds under certain conditions. For all intents and purposes, after this project is done, when you leave your lights on, pull your keys out, and open the door, the car thinks you have actually left the keys in the ignition.
I went to radio shack, and bought two 5amp mini-relays that were DPDT. I didn't find SPDT, but those would be acceptable, as we are only dealing with one circuit per relay. Note: Because we are dealing with cars, you need to get a relay that has a 12 volt coil (i.e. it uses 12 volt signal wire to trip the switch). The relay I found is capable of switching 120 volt circuits, but it will work equally well for 12 volts.
Radio Shack 5A DPDT relay.
Basically, what you are looking for is a relay that has 12 volt coil, and has both NC and NO poles. You can tell by looking at the back of the package, which shows the schematic. I can't get into details here, as different relays may be different.
I also bought a plastic project box to hold the relays, as you don’t want them just lying around.
What to do in the car? The most convenient place to get the connection points, I found, was in the lights/ashtray harness. Take apart the center console, and find the harness that connects to it. You will see three wires, one black (the ground), one red with a black stripe(the ashtray light), and one yellow with a red stripe (the accessory power, that powers the lighter).
This combination has a few features which make them convenient. While we are dealing with getting a warning about the external lights being on, when they are on, so is the ashtray light, making it a great tap in point and making it unnecessary to dig into and access the external light system. The same goes for the lighter. The lighter has power when the accessory power is on. We don't want the light warning going off when the key is in the car and the accessory power is on, because we would assume that you aren't going to be sitting in the car for hours with the lights on. This is to prevent you from leaving your car with the lights on, coming back only to find a car with a dead battery. You can change it to work any way you want, but the following will warn you about the lights when the car is off. There is also a ground wire there. Basically, everything we need is in that harness, and it is easy to access, and close to where we need it.
This is the logic of the circuit we are going to construct:
If LIGHTS = ON AND CAR ACCESSORY POWER = OFF, then BUZZER when DOOR = OPEN.
The buzzer is the same sound you get when you leave your key in the ignition and the car is off, and you open the door (bee bee bee beep). This can easily be made to make another sound if you were to go purchase a buzzer and run power to it.
PART ONE (RELAYS):
(See after the basic instructions to see how I did it to make it a bit easier)
You should disconnect the battery. If you don't, make certain to be careful with the wires, as you don't want to short stuff and blow fuses.
From the above mentioned harness. Either cut and strip, or carefully remove part of the sheath around the wires.
Now, go to your relays and mark them in some way so you know which one is going to be the "LIGHT" relay, and which one is going to be the "ACCESSORY POWER" (AC) relay. It is important to make this distinction, or the circuit will not work correctly.
On the relays I got, there are two sets of pins. There are two pins at the top, a gap, and then a set of six pins in two rows of three. Each row of three is a "Pole", so you don’t have to worry about the other three if you have a DP relay.
The two pins at the top are the 12v signal pins, used to trip the relay.
The three pins in a row are the NC, Common, and NO pins, and part of the circuit that will be switched on or off. The packaging of the relay should tell you which is which. In mine, the NC was the one closest to the signal pins, the common was in the middle (which it normally will always be), and the NO was at the end.
Have the wire prepared: 8 red, each about 4-6 inches long, 5 black wires, each about 4-6 inches long, and 1 short black wire (2 inches or less, depending on what you do, see below). Depending on the relays pin sizes, you may have to solder the wires. Also have a long black wire that can reach from the centre console to the back of the fuse box with slack.
NOTE: The best way, as I have described below, is to connect one set of wires to the relays, another set of wires to the harness wires, and use quick connects in between them. It is MUCH easier to do it this way, and you can disconnect it if you have to. Furthermore, quick-connects usually have different ends, and in so you can use one end for the LIGHT relay 12V wires, and the other ends for the AC 12V wires. That way, you don’t get the connections confused when putting it together, because if you do, it won't work properly.
What you want to do is first connect lead wires (2 x RED ) to the two 12v signal pins on the AC relay. One of these connects to the YELLOW/RED wire in the harness, and the other to the BLACK in the harness. It does not matter which goes to which, when dealing with the signal pins, but make sure you use the REDs, or whatever colour you have chosen other than black, so you know where it goes later on.
Then, what you want to do is run a lead wire (BLACK) from the BLACK wire in the harness to the NC pin of the AP relay (in this case, the pin closest to the two signal pins in the relay).
Next, connect the lead wires (2 x RED) to the LIGHT relay signal pins, using the RED/BLACK and BLACK wires in the harness. Again, these are the two isolated pins at the top of the relay, away from the two rows of three at the other end.
Next, connect a lead wire (BLACK) to the NO pin of the LIGHT relay, and for now, do not connect it to anything.
Finally, connect the two COMMON pins between the LIGHT relay, and the AP relay, using the short lead.
MAKE SURE you are using the three NC/CO/NO pins that are in the same row! Otherwise, you are connecting to a different circuit.
Now that the relay aspect is complete, we can move on. First, though, I would like to say how I did it, to make it easier. I basically made all the soldering connections before the connections to the harness. I got the plastic project box from RadioShack and drilled two holes, one on each end. The hole was big enough to allow three wires to pass through each one.
I then tapped the relays spine to spine, so the pins were facing away from each other:
I first got a lead that was exactly the length of the two relays, and connected it to the two common pins. Then I soldered all the other leads. After this, I fed the wires through the holes, so that the leads of each relay came out of its own hole. I then bought and added quick-connectors to the ends of the wires.
I then attached matching wires to the harness, and addedd quick-connects to those too.
Basically, what you should have is this (-----> = connects to)
RED/BLACK Harness wire--->Light relay 12v pin
BLACK harness wire ----> Light relay other 12v pin
YELLOW/RED Harness wire--->AP relay 12v pin
BLACK harness wire ---->AP relay other 12v pin
BLACK harness wire---->NC on AP relay
COMMON on AP relay ---> COMMON on Light relay
Unconnected BLACK wire -----> NO on Light relay (this connects to something that will be discussed later on).
TESTING:
Make sure the loose black wire coming from NO on Light relay is not touching anything metal, and connect the battery. We now have to test if the relays are actually working.
The first thing to do is, with the car off, turn on and off the lights several times. You should hear a clicking from the Light relay.
Next, turn the car on to Accessory (off and on), and you should hear clicking as well.
If yes, then this means that that part of the job is ready. If not, check the connections again.
STEP 2 (FUSE BOX):
The next step is to gain access to the Integrated Control Unit, which connects to the fuse box. More precisely, we need to get to the harness that connects to it
First set is to remove the under-dash cover, via screws, and the metal knee-bolster, via bolts.
Then, take off the two nuts that hold the fuse box to the frame.
The upper left of the fuse box has a harness connecting to it with three or so wires. Disconnect it (it is brown). It is the moonroof harness, and it makes it easy to pull the fusebox out (if you have it.)
If you manipulate the fusebox so you can see behind it, you will se this white box directly connecting to the back of it. Going into that is a 10 Pin harness, connecting right at the left (door side) edge. Disconnect it. Looking at the wires going into the harness, you will see two Blue wires with a white stripe. One is at the far edge of the harness, while the other is the second one in. You want the one at the far edge (i.e. the last wire.) If you look at the harness edge on (the edge that goes into the ICU), with the retention clip point up, it should be the one to the far right. I think this is the case, but I know 100% it is the blue/white wire that is the last wire on the harness, whereas the other blue/white wire is second in from the edge, next to a blue wire with a green stripe, on the other edge of the connector.If you are looking at the fuse box with that harness connected, it is the wire farthest away from you.
What you want to do is try to remove the sheath without cutting the wire, so you expose it. I say this because you have to go under the foot well to actually work with the harness, and if you cut it, it will be a real big pain to strip and reattach it.
The final step is to connect a BLACK wire to this wire, run it to the relays you have in the centre console area, and connect it to the lead coming out of the NO lead on the LIGHT relay. Yes, this is the unconnected wire mentioned above. Once this is done, test it. With the car off, keys out, and the lights on, open the door. If you hear the bee bee bee beep sound, it works! Put everything back together, put the box under the console and tuck in the wires, and your done!
That’s it!
FINAL NOTE: If you do not care if you get the warning while the car is one or the Accessory power is on, you only have to use ONE relay SPDT or DPDT relay, and do away with the ACCESSORY POWER relay all together. In this case, just connect a ground from the harness to the common pin, and the wire from the blue/white wire in the fuse harness for the ICU to the NO pin.
PM me with any questions.
Modified by Deam at 2:18 PM 7/8/2003
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Re: (granada_sun)
This is so you GET a warning!
The 92-95 Civic does not let you know you have left your lights on.
"One of the only ergonomic flaws in the 92-95 Civic is the LACK of a warning that you have left your lights on."
It was in the first line!
Modified by Deam at 5:52 AM 7/8/2003
The 92-95 Civic does not let you know you have left your lights on.
"One of the only ergonomic flaws in the 92-95 Civic is the LACK of a warning that you have left your lights on."
It was in the first line!
Modified by Deam at 5:52 AM 7/8/2003
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,997
Likes: 0
From: 805, socal, USA
Re: (Deam)
wtf??? that was the longest ******* post ever. care to summarize for those of us who dont' want to be reading clear into 2004?
edit: oh i get it, it is instructions on how to do something (that i havn't figured out yet). i thought you were asking a question.
edit: oh i get it, it is instructions on how to do something (that i havn't figured out yet). i thought you were asking a question.
Trending Topics
Re: (Chris y0!)
uhh read his first sentence in the paragraph
"on of the flaws is that there is no beep when you leave your lights on"
my mom leaves her lights on all the time and complains about the civic not having a warning
"on of the flaws is that there is no beep when you leave your lights on"
my mom leaves her lights on all the time and complains about the civic not having a warning
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 941
Likes: 0
From: Pa, 15401
Re: 92-95 Civic warning beep when lights left on (LONG)! (Deam)
Let me be the first one to give you a 
. Very nice and descriptive write up, I wouldn't pay money for something so simple off of eBay presonally. I'd much rather do it myself. Welcome to HT!
. Very nice and descriptive write up, I wouldn't pay money for something so simple off of eBay presonally. I'd much rather do it myself. Welcome to HT!
Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,590
Likes: 0
From: Eastside ATL, GA
Re: 92-95 Civic warning beep when lights left on (LONG)! (Deam)
IMAO, it's more trouble just reading this long *** post than even attempting this on my g/f's car. she better just remember to turn off her lights. Good tech thread though, we need more of these around here
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,497
Likes: 0
From: Bossier Shitty, LA
Re: 92-95 Civic warning beep when lights left on (hatchback19)
holy **** that's a long writeup! All I did was go to radioshack and bought a 2wire piezo buzzer for $3 and hooked mine up to the windshield wiper fuse(black wire) and the headlight fuse(red wire)! There, Done! and reminds you when you leave your lights on!
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,461
Likes: 0
From: Around, VA, USA
Re: 92-95 Civic warning beep when lights left on (Jswpstdoff)
damn that was a long write up...i saw a post similar to this a while back, but thought it would be much easier (for me) to go to radio shack, buy a buzzer, put the red wire in the parking light fuse and the black to the wiper fuse...took me no more than 2 mins with the exception of the 10 min drive to the store...
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 609
Likes: 0
From: 301 MD
Re: 92-95 Civic warning beep when lights left on (95hbMatt)
how about i just remember to turn off my lights. 
when you get out of your car don't you look back at it anyway to see if everything is straight.....i know i do
when you get out of your car don't you look back at it anyway to see if everything is straight.....i know i do
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Re: 92-95 Civic warning beep when lights left on (93egsi)
Yes, but the point of this writeup is that it seems "factory". It is the same noise you get when you keep the door open.
If i had pictures, it would be much easier to show, and I thought it would be usefull for people to actually understand it in detail.
In reality, it is VERY simple. Not everyone understands electronics though, and I thoguht it would be of benifit to everyone to understand switches and relays, so they can do more things on their own with greater understanding. If i cut all that out, ti would be very short. Man, just look at the last part with the wiring "schematic", that alone you could do it.
I am amazed that some people didn't understand what I was speaking about after the first paragraph, in which I point out a flaw, and say clearly that I have found a way to create the warning.
More importantly, though, I think most techie/car people like things to seem "from the factor", and having the factor "bee bee bee beep" from the ICU seems more interesting than some piezo buzzer.
If i had pictures, it would be much easier to show, and I thought it would be usefull for people to actually understand it in detail.
In reality, it is VERY simple. Not everyone understands electronics though, and I thoguht it would be of benifit to everyone to understand switches and relays, so they can do more things on their own with greater understanding. If i cut all that out, ti would be very short. Man, just look at the last part with the wiring "schematic", that alone you could do it.
I am amazed that some people didn't understand what I was speaking about after the first paragraph, in which I point out a flaw, and say clearly that I have found a way to create the warning.
More importantly, though, I think most techie/car people like things to seem "from the factor", and having the factor "bee bee bee beep" from the ICU seems more interesting than some piezo buzzer.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 92-95 Civic warning beep when lights left on (95hbMatt)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95hbMatt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">holy **** that's a long writeup! All I did was go to radioshack and bought a 2wire piezo buzzer for $3 and hooked mine up to the windshield wiper fuse(black wire) and the headlight fuse(red wire)! There, Done! and reminds you when you leave your lights on!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
same here and it works like a charm.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
same here and it works like a charm.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Re: 92-95 Civic warning beep when lights left on (Deam)
"holy **** that's a long writeup! All I did was go to radioshack and bought a 2wire piezo buzzer for $3 and hooked mine up to the windshield wiper fuse(black wire) and the headlight fuse(red wire)! There, Done! and reminds you when you leave your lights on"
Wouldn't this buzzer be going on even if you were just sitting in the car with the door closed? I use the door switch as well.
I know several people who have killed their batteries because of this. Sometimes people turn on their lights when underground, etc, and come above ground, or just turn on the lights to see the dash a bit better, but don't realize the lights are on if it is in the day.
Again, if you read it carefully, and can get the relays, it really only takes an hour or less if you are good with your car, and you get a nice, factory-like warning.
Wouldn't this buzzer be going on even if you were just sitting in the car with the door closed? I use the door switch as well.
I know several people who have killed their batteries because of this. Sometimes people turn on their lights when underground, etc, and come above ground, or just turn on the lights to see the dash a bit better, but don't realize the lights are on if it is in the day.
Again, if you read it carefully, and can get the relays, it really only takes an hour or less if you are good with your car, and you get a nice, factory-like warning.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Re: 92-95 Civic warning beep when lights left on (Deam)
What a waste of time this was.
I hope there are some people who appreciate the ability to tap into the cars own buzzer system, then some Piezo buzzer from Radio Shack.
Modified by Deam at 1:43 PM 7/8/2003
I hope there are some people who appreciate the ability to tap into the cars own buzzer system, then some Piezo buzzer from Radio Shack.
Modified by Deam at 1:43 PM 7/8/2003
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,497
Likes: 0
From: Bossier Shitty, LA
Re: 92-95 Civic warning beep when lights left on (Deam)
oh I give you props for all the work you did and how it works but I'm just stating that there is a simpler way of doing it...you can also use the chiming piezo buzzer and sounds like factory.....and yes it works during the day, night, underground, wherever. It buzzes or chimes whenever you turn your car off and the lights are still on...
pics from TheKidd
exactly how mine is hooked up)
from downthehatch:
chime:
Sound clip of chime: (right click, save as)
http://www.geocities.com/dwnthehatch/mov00438.mpg
pics from TheKidd
exactly how mine is hooked up) from downthehatch:
chime:
Sound clip of chime: (right click, save as)
http://www.geocities.com/dwnthehatch/mov00438.mpg
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 714
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX, USA
some people here would rather do things the easy way instead of making it a clean job. I give you big-ups for the extremely detailed writeup. I read the whole thing, just for the knowledge. I have a 00 Si, so I really dont need this knowlegde. I just enjoy reading information. Keep it up!
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 502
Likes: 0
From: Fresno, CA, USA
Re: (Damon)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Damon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">some people here would rather do things the easy way instead of making it a clean job. I give you big-ups for the extremely detailed writeup. I read the whole thing, just for the knowledge. I have a 00 Si, so I really dont need this knowlegde. I just enjoy reading information. Keep it up! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Even the easy way is a clean job. It's not like there are wires hanging all over the place. But, the fact that he did the writeup is very cool.
Props++
</TD></TR></TABLE>Even the easy way is a clean job. It's not like there are wires hanging all over the place. But, the fact that he did the writeup is very cool.
Props++