I was wondering which car would get into low 14's easiest(all motor) out of a 97'ish Civic Si, 97 Integra gsr, or Prelude VTEC. Also would these mods be able to pull a time out that low?....i/e/h, cam gears, pulleys, VTEC controller, ACT clutch, and an intake manifold? REally apprectiate the help!

 

didnt you ask this somewhere else already? The answer is hard to say, the "common sense" way to look at these 3 cars would be their stock car times. Prelude and GS-R = minimal difference and civic si few tenths behind.

 

Yea I asked this in the Civic forum also just to see what they had to say to.

 

youre gonig to get bias opinions depending on which forum you post in i vote the teg!

 

well, if this helps you out, my '96 (not even OBD1) gsr can get high 14's on stock tires with a short-ram intake, a high-flow cat, and an ITR catback...don't even have an aftermarket header yet

 

prelude vtec & gsr will run 1/4 about the same time. The gsr is lighter, but the prelude has more torque & hp (heavier).

 

there are no 97 civic si's. the EG si (coupe) only came in 99/2000. they run about the same 1/4 mile (stock for stock) as a GSR.. depending on the driver of course. i would say the b18c1 in the GSR would respond a little better to mods than the SI with the b16. but if you want to hit low 14's all motor, i would probably opt for the 4th gen prelude vtec. i think they already hit a low 15/high 14 stock.. imagine if you got some cams on that beast. it would fly. but i dont know anything about preludes.. this is only my presumption.

 

How much(generally speaking) are good cams?

 

my friend with stock DA
runs in the 15's thats a good driver
so imagine with a GSR

 

word. i also hit 14.9 w/ just intake/exhaust. SIMPLE and stock tires.

 

if your going to get a prelude then go 4th generation
if your going to get a gsr go 94-95(obd1).

those does mean you have to go with them, but thats just your quickest start to get low 14's all motor. those 2 are the fastest out of their own kind. Id stay away from the SI out of these 3 choices but thats just personal preferance.

 

I would say the gsr my cousin has one and he is runing 14.99 in the 1\4 mile at 95 mph . all he has is full exhaust work and that's it. oh ya sway bar you know bla bla bla GSR ALL THE WAY

 

None. GEt a rsx type s.

 

When my friends 96 prelude vtec was completely stock nothing it was as stock as you can get he ran a 15.4 in the quarter im sure some better driver can prob get like a 15 flat hes selling it if your interested check it out here-->

http://www.autotrader.com/find...st=11

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patdemps &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your going to get a prelude then go 4th generation
if your going to get a gsr go 94-95(obd1).
</TD></TR></TABLE>

OBD1 GSR dominates the OBD2 GSR anyday.

My buddies 95 GSR semi/decently gutted, weighed in at the drag strip just bearly over 2400 lbs. My other friends Hype R weighed in at 2375 exactly with jsut the back seat, passenger seat, and some interior panels removed.


I'd never touch a OBD2 GSR, IMO.

 

thats based on opinion.

The prelude vtec (h22) is heavier but more hp and tq. and its a little bit rougher on turns? so if your gonna autocross...dont get that

the gsr 94-95 obd1 will dominate but goodluck finding one with low miles.. also lighter.. but not as much hp and tq compared to the prelude.

I also think they dont have many parts for the k22.. but more parts on the b18c then the k22.

If I were in your shoes. Id get the 94-95 gsr.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P1mpSlap &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'd never touch a OBD2 GSR, IMO.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i wouldnt go that far. if you cant find a good 94-95 GSR (with low miles, or in good condition, or whatever), i'd then look to get a 98-99 (IMO look a little better than the 95-97, and dont have OBD2 version 2 or whatever it is that the 00-01 models have). then, if you wanted, you could do an obd2 -&gt; obd1 conversion on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WOO WOO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I also think they dont have many parts for the k22.. but more parts on the b18c then the k22.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
H22

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTEC_1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> How much(generally speaking) are good cams?</TD></TR></TABLE>

cams range from about $400 to over $1000 for a pair, but you arnt gonna see too much gain from them unless you have other mods done, such as i/e/h.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P1mpSlap &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

OBD1 GSR dominates the OBD2 GSR anyday.

I'd never touch a OBD2 GSR, IMO.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

See signature please. OBD I vs OBD II. Who cares. I'm running damn fast for minimal mods in my OBD II GS-R. It's all about the driver.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Integraholic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

See signature please. OBD I vs OBD II. Who cares. I'm running damn fast for minimal mods in my OBD II GS-R. It's all about the driver.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you my friend have a factory freak and you sure can drive...mad props ...do you have a timeslip by any chance

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by P1mpSlap &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

OBD1 GSR dominates the OBD2 GSR anyday.

I'd never touch a OBD2 GSR, IMO.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was about to ask about the above OBD comparisons.
Wouldn't one have to convert the OBD2 cars to OBD1 to exploit their tuning potential to it's fullest.
Sorry, to sort of hijack the thread. But, it seems I'm not alone. It's already been hijacked. haha

 

i have a bone stock 98 prelude beeting gsr's in the 1/4 by 1 1/2 car i would get the lude just car i think it is a all around better car and if you are going to autocross get the type sh and stock that thing is bad *** on handling thank you and have a nice day

 

First of all - this obd1 **** has to got to go!! I dunno where you guys hear this crap that obd1 is better, please give me some sources.

I give you some -- quoted bu "SURFERX" team-integra

Switching to OBD1 by itself will do nothing. The reason people convert to OBD1 is so they have the ability to reprogram their ECU with something like a Hondata. OBD1 isn't just automatically faster.

No, I think it was Import Tuner or SCC or some other magazine that started that whole way of thinking.

They took two different GS-R's, OBD1 and OBD2, put them on the dyno/track and found the OBD1 car got better results. So from that the magazine came out with some ridiculous article on why OBD1 is so much better.

What they failed to do was take a pool of many cars and average tests on all of them. You can't just take two random cars and say that's it. You can take two OBD2 GS-R's, one black and the other green, one is going to be faster/stronger than the other so if the green car was faster does that mean we should write an article on why green cars are better than black cars?

Some information you have to take with a grain of salt. Even objective measurements can be influenced sometimes. Also consider the magazine who wrote the "OBD1 is better" article had a big sponsor who was selling OBD2-1 conversion harnesses...

 

why obd1 might be better than obd2

quoted by michael delaney--

"Bottomline: Is it worth it?

if you're uninitiated and get a chip upgrade right after i/h/e, then OBD1 is worth it. Why? because once you add aftermaket wild cams, high CR pistons, bigger fuel pump and injectors, headwork, bigger IM , and bigger TB...the original chip you had made for the i/h/e stock setup is pretty useless. It's programs can't run the new parts upgrades properly (extra breathing and fuel) ...it's too mild and only has a 40% tolerance for changes around it's baseline calibration values...and so, in OBD2, you have to fork out another $300-400 for another brand new chip plus dyno time for tuning to make it all work for that new upgraded engine package. In OBD1, all you have to do is pay the programmer about $100 to re-write the more aggressive program and pay for dyno tuning time. The cost is about 1/3.

If you are buying because you think the stock base programs are noticeably more aggressive than OBD2, you're wasting your money. You can tune the OBD2 stock base programs to compensate with piggybacks and altering the FP & spark timing. You can be smart about it and wait until you get ALL of your aftermarket mods that affect air & fuel delivery done first and THEN get an OBD2 chip upgrade...a one time cost versus doing repeated costs. Don't forget, to go OBD1, it's not just the cost of the OBD1 chip ...you need to also find and pay for a compatible OBD1 computer and then get a OBD2-&gt; OBD1 conversion harness to align the sensor OBD2 wire connectors to the OBD1 ECU pin connectors...a hidden cost.

The Hondata allows you to burn your own chip with their Stage 4 emulator/chip burner setup and to make it relativelycheap affordable for the do-it-yourselfer, they chose to use the OBD1 system since it's easily re-writable with no tampering safeguards built into the chip and the blank chips are cheaper. That's why they went to OBD1...less hassle.

So please, don't be an IMPORT TUNER parrot and restate their BS here thanks."