I am in the process of removing my driver side axle and got stuck. The stupid ball joint will not come out. I've tried everything. This was suggested by another member.............<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put something btw the LCA and Knuckle, and NOT something under the bolt.... nothing goes under.
basically you sandwich something between the lca and the knuckle, it will be a tight fit, and becareful b/c if what ever you put in there is not secure, the pressure generated by the compressed springs will shot it out and you will get hurt. so when everything is ready, slowly lower the lca/knuckle.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I want to try this but i dont know what the knuckle is. I know what the lca is. please can someone explain this alittle better i am new with this suspension ****. thanks

 

Welcome to the DRAG RACING forum........

 

I normally use a fork but when i was younger and didnt have all the tools i have now a BFH on the front of the lca near the bal joint works fine. There is even a nice flat spot on it as if it was almost made for that purpose.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AussieB20vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Welcome to the DRAG RACING forum........</TD></TR></TABLE>

no **** *******, drag racers change axles alot

anyways thanks to another member of this board i was able to pop it out.

 

We also have paint on our cars, any questions about what wax is best?

 

yea, screw that ball joint fork, all that does is f up the boot on the ball joint.

take a bfh to the frontside of the lower control arm...it could take a few good hits to pop it out..also becareful not to hit the threads on the ball joint and make sure the dust shield isnt touchin the brake rotor after you are through. HTH

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2.2Lcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also becareful not to hit the threads on the ball joint </TD></TR></TABLE>

this is why I urge people to thread the castle nut back on slightly to avoid hitting threads and stripping them. IT's way easier to replace a castle nut

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/c...36861

best 6 bux u will spend if u work on ur car alot

 

Do any of you guys have tips on how to get the crown nut off while the ball join keeps spinning?

 

I'm having the same problem...tried to put pressure jacking up ..didn't work.I'm going to cut the nut in half tomorrow

 

had the same problem before. i used an impact gun. since the impact gun spins the castle nut faster than the rod can spin, it should come off in no time. forward, reverse, forward, reverse, etc 'til the nut comes off, that is if it doesn't come off during the first attempt.

 

I've tried that for 30 min ..the bolt/rod cont to spin both ways..

 

nah use the fork and a fn' sledge hammer, get the fork in there and then hit the hammer as hard as you fn' can! it won't f*ck up the boot if you don't wiggle the fork up and down. just hit the damn thing!!!

 

Be careful with that pitman arm/tie rod puller. You can mushroom the balljoint real easily with one of those if you don't put something b/w the balljoint and the puller.

An upside-down socket with the castle nut threaded half on might work, or maybe the castle nut threaded down far enough so that it takes the brunt of the push.

 

I always use a fork and a BIG hammer, it works but always messes up the boot. What do mechanics use so they dont damage anything?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The B Man &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I always use a fork and a BIG hammer, it works but always messes up the boot. What do mechanics use so they dont damage anything?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think someone mentioned it in an earlier post but, if not, what you do is, after having the car on stands, jack up the lower control arm so there is enough space to fit a 1/2" drive breaker bar between the lower control arm and the steering knuckle. put in the breaker bar in the space you have just created and lower the suspension really fast and if done correctly, you should hear a "pop," and this will remove the knuckle from the LCA

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sp00n'd Supra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.harborfreight.com/c...36861

best 6 bux u will spend if u work on ur car alot</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats a good thing to have,

 

i think someone mentioned it in an earlier post but, if not, what you do is, after having the car on stands, jack up the lower control arm so there is enough space to fit a 1/2" drive breaker bar between the lower control arm and the steering knuckle. put in the breaker bar in the space you have just created and lower the suspension really fast and if done correctly, you should hear a "pop," and this will remove the knuckle from the LCA

hmm...im trying to picture tris, but i fuess id have to see it to figure it out. How about the tie rods? what should i use?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The B Man &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
hmm...im trying to picture tris, but i fuess id have to see it to figure it out. How about the tie rods? what should i use?</TD></TR></TABLE>

for the tie rods, use a balljoint seperator. give me about an hour or two and i'll try to get some pics up

 

had to run downstairs to jack up the car and what not to take these pics. but, hopefully these visual aids will help you out more:

put your car on stands:




1/2" drive breaker bar:




compress the suspension by jacking up the lower control arm:




put the head of the breaker bar between the steering knuckle and lower control arm, as shown here:




different angles:










after that, lower the jack in a quick manner and you should hear a "pop," after the castle nut has been taken off.

hth

 

thanx man!!!! that helps with the ball joint. What is good for the steering rods?
p.s. dont forget to take the nut off boys and girls before trying that breaker bar thing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J2turbo21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do any of you guys have tips on how to get the crown nut off while the ball join keeps spinning?</TD></TR></TABLE> what I did was put a c-clamp on the top of the ball joint and the bottom, and used a 12 mm wrench to get it off. No damage to the threads. What ***** it up is the rusted out codder pin, i ******* hate those...........

 

Thanks for taking those pics, it sure would have helped me out a week ago. Thats the method i used and it works.

 

I use the Autozone/Harbor freight tool, but grind off the "point"......



I only use the tool to apply pressure, then one nice tap from the hammer and the balljoint seperates.

DO NOT try to use the tool to pop the balljoint by itself!!!!!! This will ruins the threads as the holes for the cotter pin will compress.

 

Why doesn't anyone do it the old fashioned way..

Take the bolt off, then thread it back on but maybe leave 5-6 threads at the top loose. Take a BFH and bang the living **** out of the control arm right were it has the little mark on the arm...1-5 manly swings and you'll see the 5-6 threads dissappear, that means the ball joint dropped. done.