are there any modifications to the block in order for this to work? what are the advantages to this mod? tia.

 

I would check the piston to oil squirter clearance.

 

the reason i ask this is because i was wondering how an 89mm stroke would fit in a space made for a 87.2mm one. thanks rocket for your reply.

 

I think I just answered this. Just check the squirter clearance like rocket said

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rocket &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would check the piston to oil squirter clearance.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not sure I understand why you would have to worry about piston to oil squirter clearance I mean aren't the oil squiters underneath the pistons lubricating the rods? Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

when the piston is moving down, if there isn't enough clearance you could end up damaging them.

 

Or the crank throw. Just assemble the motor rotate it slow while watching the squirters for clearance

 

I heard something about machining one of the caps to make it fit right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cycocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when the piston is moving down, if there isn't enough clearance you could end up damaging them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, the stroke is longer and the rod is shorter so the piston is going to be closer to the squirter at BDC.

 

more info for this please i was thinking of doing the same thing kinda like a sleeper lsvtec with out the headaches u know

 

the only time i've heard of machining a cap was to put a gsr girdle in a ls/crv block? im not sure tho.

 

Not sure if it is the same on all B18C motors with LS cranks, but... In my B18C block when I installed the LS crank, the crank itself was hitting the oil squirters. The only way at the time to fix it was to knife edge the crank.


Jason

 

LS crank adds around 37cc's of displacement and ups compression a little. There is a lot of debate over this mod and the oil squirters. Some say you should cut them off and some say you shouldn't. My advice would be you will never get a concrete answer so keep them if you can, there is less chance you will have problems in the long run. Just make sure you have clearance cause you don't want anything to hit them and shave off little pieces of metal into your engine. You will need to use LS rods and again some people say you should upgrade to ARP rod bolts and some say it isn't necessary. It's up to you but for $100 I would just upgrade the bolts for piece of mind.

 

Just run eagle rods .137 longer..

 

you have to machine the crank to pas the oil squirters. i wouldn't recomend it because i had a ls crank with rods in a typr-r block and i kept spinning bearings. so i out the r crank and rods back in. not worth it. trust me.

 

anyone else have problems with spinning bearings

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EXTREMEJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you have to machine the crank to pas the oil squirters. i wouldn't recomend it because i had a ls crank with rods in a typr-r block and i kept spinning bearings. so i out the r crank and rods back in. not worth it. trust me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Was this with Honda OE bearings?