Ok, this is the situation. My R valves have being adjusted yesterday for the first time. They needed it. I picked up my car but as soon the car got warm in traffic the engine stalls. I won't hold the idle.
I called back the dealer and the mechanic told me that the idle might need some adjustment at the screw. I doesn't sound quite right to me My car was perfect before I took it to the mechanic and now I have this problem.
Then, I talked to another mechanic friend of mine and he thinks they left the valves too tight and that's why it doesn't hold the idle. Don't know what to think.
At the mean time, I moved for the first time the idle screw and after a while I started having a CEL. F*ck!, don't know what to do. Any help from the tech gurus?

 

Get the code from the ECU

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CPR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get the code from the ECU</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's something I need to know how to.

 

c-speedracing.com

 

I need to get my valves adjusted too. Thats what im afraid of. I have met the ******* mechanics at acura and they are knuckleheads. I dont know what to do either.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tweety R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's something I need to know how to.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Here you go bro http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/06.php

 

Thanks guys. But, what about the idle?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tweety R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks guys. But, what about the idle?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Get the code first. It might give some clues to your idle problem.

 

 

I do my valve adjustments to the tightest specs (0.006" intake, 0.007" exhaust)

 

i adjusted valves on type-r and gs-r. i did notice after the adjustment that idle drops quite a bit (about 2-300 rpm). what i have done to correct this problem is simple clean out the throttle plate and body first then check again. it usually corrects it(well at least for me). if that doesn't solve the situation you may want to reset the ecu if no codes are present. not simply with a scanner. use scanner reset first then disconnect battery for 5 minutes. the ecu should relearn idle map values after doing so. well good luck

 

They adjusted a couple of valves too tight. Take it back and have them redone.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00ITR#756 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They adjusted a couple of valves too tight. Take it back and have them redone.</TD></TR></TABLE> Very possible.

Ok, I have a code 45. It's the only code the ecu is sending. I'll keep on checking.

 

This is what I found:

Code 45= "System Too Lean or Too Rich malfunction in the fuel monitoring systems"

Then, I think I moved the wrong screw. The screw I moved is the horizontal one on top of the throttle body. I didn't see any other else. Seems like I messed up the air/fuel mixture No wonder this secrew comes sealed with gray paint from the factory
I'll try to put it back like it was...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tweety R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is what I found:

Code 45= "System Too Lean or Too Rich malfunction in the fuel monitoring systems"

Then, I think I moved the wrong screw. The screw I moved is the horizontal one on top of the throttle body. I didn't see any other else. Seems like I messed up the air/fuel mixture No wonder this secrew comes sealed with gray paint from the factory
I'll try to put it back like it was...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you talking about the idle adjustment screw? If so, this is it


Hmmm... usually if your idle is messed up, you would throw a code 14, not code 45(Fuel supply system, Primary O2 sensor, MAP sensor, contaminated fuel, valve clearance, exhaust leakage). So i doubt your idle problems have anything to do with the tb, IAC valve, or adjustment screw. Sounds like your primay o2 sensor may be focked or valve clearance issues. You better take it back and have them do it right. I bet they did the adjustment to the b18b secs, which is

Intake: 0.003"-0.005"
Exhaust: 0.006"-0.008",

instead of the type r,

Intake: 0.006"-0.007"
Exhaust: 0.007"-0.008"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tommy_Gunns &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I do my valve adjustments to the tightest specs (0.006" intake, 0.007" exhaust) </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's more than fine. I adjust it to the tighter spec. Ticking goes away and the engine purrs like a kitten after the adjustment.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTHokie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Are you talking about the idle adjustment screw? If so, this is it


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, that's the screw that I adjusted. After that the idle went up but the ecu threw a code 45.

I moved the screw to the left and the idle went up a lil bit. If you move to the right, it stalls again.

Note: The mechanic said he used the specs printed on the hood label.

 

did he replace everything he disconnected/remove?

As for the stalling, I did my valves twice and so far nothing strange has happened- Just go over everything and double ck. If you feel somewhat comfortable re-check the vavle adj yourself and know its done right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tweety R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Code 45= "System Too Lean or Too Rich malfunction in the fuel monitoring systems"
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Tight valve will cause an engine to run rich.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did he replace everything he disconnected/remove?</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I was thinking.

Also, make sure he did the valves with the engine STONE COLD. If it was too warm when he did it, that could throw it off.

 

I hate mechanics. I wish I had the ***** to do it my self and I would. Im at 33K and still no adjustments.

 

Hey, i used to get that CEL too! Too rich or Too Lean. I did my valve adjustment and it runs fine. The only problem is that my car still ticks. I did the Screwdriver trick and it sounded like my injectors but why do my injectors tick? I didn't know that they tick. What causes them to tick? When i did my valve adjustment, i did find a few valves being too tight. I reset the ECU after i did the valve adjustment and it hasn't shown up yet. If i get it im going to bump this post but everything checks out. Anyone have any idea whatsup with the ticking from the injectors? I hate to say that its normal cause it just doesn't sound right. It shouldn't be ticking and i don't have any idea whatsup with it. my 01 R's got 52k on it.

what happens when the valves are adjusted too tight? your valves burn right??

 

cool

 

Have the valves readjusted and see if that does it.