Short Ram vs. Cold Air
I have a 2002 Accord 4DR SE. Which and why is a better air intake for it, the short ram or the cold air? Will not be racing it but I do want the better performance.
Thanks!
Albert
Thanks!
Albert
The cold air intake would be better, but like said above you most likely will not feel a difference.
Why? Because cooler air is more dense the warmer air. That having been said, the more dense the air is, the more you're going to "fit" into your engine... You should know what happens next.
Why? Because cooler air is more dense the warmer air. That having been said, the more dense the air is, the more you're going to "fit" into your engine... You should know what happens next.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wont be beat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your talking +/- 1-2hp. Hardly worth the time to reply.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah maybe true on the dyno, but it really depends on your driving conditions. Sometimes a short-ram can hurt your performance because it is drawing air from inside the engine bay, which get really hot
especially if you are driving around town on a hot day or if ur stuck in traffic. but it's not like you need the extra horses then anyway. If you want the best performance out right now, they are pricey but i would go with AEM's new V2
"dyno proven power" but why do they have do cost so damn much
If you want to go cheap just get a genaric Cold-Air intake, best bang for the buck, about $40 on eBay
take a close look
http://www.aempower.com/induction.htm
http://search-desc.ebay.com/se...dSort
Yeah maybe true on the dyno, but it really depends on your driving conditions. Sometimes a short-ram can hurt your performance because it is drawing air from inside the engine bay, which get really hot
especially if you are driving around town on a hot day or if ur stuck in traffic. but it's not like you need the extra horses then anyway. If you want the best performance out right now, they are pricey but i would go with AEM's new V2
"dyno proven power" but why do they have do cost so damn much
If you want to go cheap just get a genaric Cold-Air intake, best bang for the buck, about $40 on eBay
take a close lookhttp://www.aempower.com/induction.htm
http://search-desc.ebay.com/se...dSort
I had both but the short ram was a no-name and was louder. I like the way my AEM CAI sounds in the higher revs and am pleased with the performance. But like my man just said it's not even worth it to ponder. You feel like spending the money go with the CAI if you don't give a $#!T get a short ram. Me personally sometimes I like to spoil my car and will go with the name brand just to do it. It's all the same purpose of increasing air flow for better performance.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brodsterH22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want the best performance out right now, they are pricey but i would go with AEM's new V2
"dyno proven power"</TD></TR></TABLE>
OMG, BWAHAHHAHAHHAH, hahahha, hehe, *pause* BWHAHAHHAHHAHA. Dyno proven! BWAHHAHAHAHHA. Ok, I'm good.
"dyno proven power"</TD></TR></TABLE>OMG, BWAHAHHAHAHHAH, hahahha, hehe, *pause* BWHAHAHHAHHAHA. Dyno proven! BWAHHAHAHAHHA. Ok, I'm good.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wont be beat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
OMG, BWAHAHHAHAHHAH, hahahha, hehe, *pause* BWHAHAHHAHHAHA. Dyno proven! BWAHHAHAHAHHA. Ok, I'm good. </TD></TR></TABLE>
HUH?
i dont get it
OMG, BWAHAHHAHAHHAH, hahahha, hehe, *pause* BWHAHAHHAHHAHA. Dyno proven! BWAHHAHAHAHHA. Ok, I'm good. </TD></TR></TABLE>
HUH?
i dont get it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brodsterH22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
HUH?
i dont get it
</TD></TR></TABLE>
trying to bash the noobs?
anyways, cai>short ram
but beware of possilible hydrolock situation before
saying Honda-tech.com swrewed your car
HUH?
i dont get it
</TD></TR></TABLE>trying to bash the noobs?
anyways, cai>short ram
but beware of possilible hydrolock situation before
saying Honda-tech.com swrewed your car
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brodsterH22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
HUH?
i dont get it
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It helps if you read the quote first.
and whatever other ghey smiley you can think of.
HUH?
i dont get it
</TD></TR></TABLE>It helps if you read the quote first.
and whatever other ghey smiley you can think of.
v2 can be found at 270ish
first one at 170ish
also the short ram are cheap and nice
but they do have on other bonus
NO HYDROLOCK
i did this with my CAI last week, thank god nothing was messed up with it and i had read enough post to know what to do. Sucks i wasted 45 to get it towed and another 25 to get home, taxi's are weird..
i need new plugs and oil change.. but thank god motor is ok
first one at 170ish
also the short ram are cheap and nice
but they do have on other bonus
NO HYDROLOCK
i did this with my CAI last week, thank god nothing was messed up with it and i had read enough post to know what to do. Sucks i wasted 45 to get it towed and another 25 to get home, taxi's are weird..
i need new plugs and oil change.. but thank god motor is ok
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ap421 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Which and why is a better air intake for it, the short ram or the cold air? Will not be racing it but I do want the better performance.</TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe it's just me but isn't the answer obvious..? why do you think it's called a cold air intake..? but if you're on a budget, get the cheaper product ofcourse-the short ram intake...
maybe it's just me but isn't the answer obvious..? why do you think it's called a cold air intake..? but if you're on a budget, get the cheaper product ofcourse-the short ram intake...
3hp? i guess....
AEM V2 does make power, go check the threads on it in the ITR forum
stock vs. stock a short ram and CAI might not differ more than 3whp
start modifying the breathing characteristics and it will make a difference, dynos dont CAI's justice, everyone knows that
AEM V2 does make power, go check the threads on it in the ITR forum
stock vs. stock a short ram and CAI might not differ more than 3whp
start modifying the breathing characteristics and it will make a difference, dynos dont CAI's justice, everyone knows that
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KTeller8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">v2 can be found at 270ish
first one at 170ish
also the short ram are cheap and nice
but they do have on other bonus
NO HYDROLOCK
i did this with my CAI last week, thank god nothing was messed up with it and i had read enough post to know what to do. Sucks i wasted 45 to get it towed and another 25 to get home, taxi's are weird..
i need new plugs and oil change.. but thank god motor is ok
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What the hell were you doing driving your car through 18"+ of water to suck water up through your CAI? Looking at the location of my filter, it would take water to almost the top of my bumper for it to suck it up. At that point I'm not worried about my engine, I'm worried about being washed away!
first one at 170ish
also the short ram are cheap and nice
but they do have on other bonus
NO HYDROLOCK
i did this with my CAI last week, thank god nothing was messed up with it and i had read enough post to know what to do. Sucks i wasted 45 to get it towed and another 25 to get home, taxi's are weird..
i need new plugs and oil change.. but thank god motor is ok
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What the hell were you doing driving your car through 18"+ of water to suck water up through your CAI? Looking at the location of my filter, it would take water to almost the top of my bumper for it to suck it up. At that point I'm not worried about my engine, I'm worried about being washed away!
I know people that drive automatic's can sure as hell feel the difference. I put one in my sisters car, and without a doubt it reached higher rpm's before shifting, and seemed to be a little quicker. So don't say that it doesn't do anything.
And besides, we all know that you need a combination of the intake, exhaust header, and cat-back to feel the difference.. they all work together nicely.
Wouldn't you agree?
And besides, we all know that you need a combination of the intake, exhaust header, and cat-back to feel the difference.. they all work together nicely.
Wouldn't you agree?
Some AEM CAI's have been known for sucking up the water bypass filter into the throttle body and in most cases into the intake manifold. I had this happen on a Civic Si, it sucked because the foam wouldn't let the manifold shutters close so we were basically stuck at 100mph on the free-way. We freaked out for a second, then just turned the car off and coasted onto the shoulder.. thankfully some friends were behind us and had tools.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AccordCoupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What the hell were you doing driving your car through 18"+ of water to suck water up through your CAI? Looking at the location of my filter, it would take water to almost the top of my bumper for it to suck it up. At that point I'm not worried about my engine, I'm worried about being washed away!</TD></TR></TABLE>
dont know where yours sits, but i got the h22 in my car and have the 97 lude CAI. it sits pretty low. almost as low as my bumper blinkers. That BS that ppl say it has to be fully submerge is exactly that
What the hell were you doing driving your car through 18"+ of water to suck water up through your CAI? Looking at the location of my filter, it would take water to almost the top of my bumper for it to suck it up. At that point I'm not worried about my engine, I'm worried about being washed away!</TD></TR></TABLE>
dont know where yours sits, but i got the h22 in my car and have the 97 lude CAI. it sits pretty low. almost as low as my bumper blinkers. That BS that ppl say it has to be fully submerge is exactly that
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastaccord94lx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And besides, we all know that you need a combination of the intake, exhaust header, and cat-back to feel the difference.. they all work together nicely.
Wouldn't you agree?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no, I completely disagree
The header is the most important part of the I/H/E but its often overlooked, why it is i dont understand
A real header, not some $300 DC crap, makes alot of power. The Hytech Header on a stock Integra Type R makes <FONT SIZE="2">20</FONT>hp
The problem is no one makes anything serious for the F series, your best bet is a Kamikaze and add a 2.5" collector
Header Tech though seems promising, they are a new company in the Honda arena and are supposedly going to make a complete line of Honda headers. They are on this forum.
Wouldn't you agree?</TD></TR></TABLE>no, I completely disagree
The header is the most important part of the I/H/E but its often overlooked, why it is i dont understand
A real header, not some $300 DC crap, makes alot of power. The Hytech Header on a stock Integra Type R makes <FONT SIZE="2">20</FONT>hp
The problem is no one makes anything serious for the F series, your best bet is a Kamikaze and add a 2.5" collector
Header Tech though seems promising, they are a new company in the Honda arena and are supposedly going to make a complete line of Honda headers. They are on this forum.
To ellaborate on my friend Nick's rant on headers, there is a huge difference between a DC style header and real racing header...the first thing you need to understand is that exhast gasses travel in pulses or waves, due to the opening and closing of the exhaust valves in the engine...next, realize that because the exhuast is carying the property of a wave, the exhaust has a crest (or a high pressure zone) which is immediately followed by the trough (or low pressure zone)...these pulses are traveling at the speed of sound...the header design is where this gets really interesting...ideally, a smoother flowing and proportonately sized exhaust tube will yield the most power...so the design of the header should take advantage of the pulses being sent out by engine...a good design will let the high pressure exhaust zone of one cylinder reach the collector at the same time a low pressure exhaust zone of another cylinder reaches the collector...and because the exhaust is a wave, the pulses will send an opposite wave back up the tube...by tuning these waves with the timing of the exhaust cam, a significant gain can be seen in power due to a less restrictive and smoother exhaust flow...of course these designs are primarily reserved for racecars and are long-tube designed...significant gains can be seen with this design in a turbo-charged motor, not to mention less turbo-lag and a healthier turbo...header design is everything when it comes to airflow!
ive heard its a waste of money getting the cai...also that it get dirty easier...its probably worth it if you go to the track all the time and dont do much daily driving...the injen one also comes with a shortram and later you can get the ext to make it cai...thats not bad..but it all depends on your preference...i'd stick with a regular short ram...its just a daily driver...and like they say, not much of a HP difference...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nick M »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A real header, not some $300 DC crap, makes alot of power.</TD></TR></TABLE>
any thoughts on the GReddy header..?
those who think the cai is waste of money are usually the ones who are broke or too cheap to get one... ebay cai is your friend..!
any thoughts on the GReddy header..?
those who think the cai is waste of money are usually the ones who are broke or too cheap to get one... ebay cai is your friend..!


