K. Benen and I decided to do a 2-Part Shock and Ride Hieght Adjustment, for people without full coilover kits.

This is in regaurd to H-T Thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=469012#4884162

Tools needed:
-Measuring Tape
-Hammer
-Hack Saw
-14mm Wrench
-Alan Key Set
-Welder

So here goes.....

Step one:
Remove shock from car, measure huge gap that makes car bouncey.



Step 2:
Take apart shock perch and remove studs





Note: put nut on stud to protect threads

Step 3:
Cut bushing cut off perch.





Caution: edges are very sharp, so make sure to file down





Step 4:
Get a length of tubing and cut to desired length (1 Inch or 1 1/2 Inch, depending on space between hood and top of shock)



once again file edges!!!



Step 5:
Weld tubing to shock tower.





Note: Be sure to weld on the inside of the bushing tower cup

Let the top cool...




Step 6:
Reassemble perch w/bushings and put back on shock.



"Aerosol over haul"





Wow Lookie: same ride hieght with more shock travel!

 

holy nice writeup batman! good job, fellas

 

how's da ride? and any problems so far? good idea...

 

Cool write up. I think I may be doing it soon.

 

Nifty, makes me wish I actually had access to, and knew how to use a welder.

 

wow..this is one the of better things I've seen.

Thanks for the write up....most would never of thought of the idea.

You should sell them for 15 bucks/pair..lol...make you some good money

And to person above...ride will be the same if not better...if you can see, the top of the shock has been moved 2 inches higher, allowing you to not "bottom out" your shocks or put excessive wear on them, and keep them in the mid region, where they perform best

 

Good Job to Ken and Alex ...

 

Part 2!

DIY Shortened Shocks (Front)

Step 1:
Measure the fork seat distance from bottom of spring seat. (All measurments made from same refrence point)



Step 2:
Wrap shock with ice pack so you do not over heat it. Then grind off weld from fork seat. Grind from fork seat side so to not grind a hole in the shock body. Becarefull to NOT over heat shock!!!!!!





Remove fork seat, and smooth out shock body



Step 3:
Slide fork seat to desired point. If the fork seat is moved too high, the shock bottom will hit axle. (We moved ours 1 inch) Just to be safe, measure distance between shock bottom and axle.



Step 4:
Get a piece of tubing that will slip fit over the shock body. Cutting the tubing at a 2 inchs length will secure the fork seat 1 inch higher than before.



Be sure to put a SMALL dent 1 inch from center to center of the dent.




Install "anti wabble tape" and slip tubing over shock body






Step 5:
Slide the fork seat back on and reassemble shortened shock




Step 6:
Now that your shock is 1 inch shorter, raise your spring 1 inch to compensate. Now your spring should have tension, but still be at the same hieght.









Good Luck!!!!

-2KtypeRHatch
-K. Benen


[Modified by 2kTypeRHatch, 7:32 PM 4/8/2003]


[Modified by 2kTypeRHatch, 7:40 PM 4/8/2003]

 

Great idea, i think that tien is making a kit like this now, but i love the fact that you figured this out yourselves.

(making comment so it stays in my recent posts)

 

Great write up! But when you lower the front like that, wouldn't it hit the axel?

 

Have you installed them yet? I'd imagine the bolts at the top of the front struts would come pretty close to hitting the hood, but I guess it'd depend on the type of struts you're using.

 

Good question.
It will if you just eyeball it. Measuring tape is your friend!

 

Good detailed instructions.

2 questions:
1.) Does the bump stop fit up into the relief that was made in the bushing tower cup allowing the shock to travel more? Or is the travel the same and just the top of the shaft is mounted higher?
2.) Why does the inside of the bushing tower cup have to be welded?

Thanks and again, good job,
G

 

Ah yes 2 points I forgot to go over.

1) you should flip the bump stop over so the smaller end is up tweards the bushing cup.

2) If you weld on the out side of the bushing cup, the weld may not clear the body of the car, and create a wobble or annoying noise when you drive.

 

Yes we have been doing this for about 4 years. Nick Theroex Won the SCCA ITA Championship 5 times with this DIY trick. Alex and I helped build the race cars some time ago! It works and well! If any one needs help and would like to do this.. Send us the Cores and some $$ like $20 for a pair and we will send some completed ones right back! they really work well


[Modified by K. BENEN, 4:52 AM 4/9/2003]

 

The modified top mount looks like something Ground Control might sell as a billet piece. They already make a billet upper rear mount for BMW applications, I think they should make something like this for Hondas.

Also if you want to do the bottom modification to a Koni shock, you don't have to worry about cutting off the fork seat, since you're supposed to slide that part off of the stock shocks anyway, so it's a separate piece already for that application.


[Modified by PatrickGSR94, 10:56 PM 4/8/2003]

 

Ah, that makes sense. Thanks for the quick reply.

 

to answer the second question a little clearer: The weld may not clear the tower hole and may bend the sheet metal when tightening the shock perch!

 

thanks for the information man, and welcome to HT

 

haha
but serious really nice write up and time ya took to help other people out
dam i love honda-tech

 

Yeah, at first I was just thinking what's easier (weld on the outside). But I forgot that the shock perch fits quite flush with the inner fender leaving no room for welds. So the inside it will be.

 

Cool write up.

but i'll just purchase some ground controls pillow mounts

 

They have those?

 

nice article .

Ground Control sells something similiar to this.

 

ahhh! so this trick explains why your hatch is on the ground (this is your hatch, correct?)