Is nitrous ok to use on a stock '01 GS-R? I heard it both ways, some say that you need to build up and reinforce your engine, and some say that you could use a 75 shot safely on a stock motor? Any ideas? I also heard Zex and Nitrous Express were pretty good? Any ideas or thoughts?

 

I was recently told at a shop the zex is very safe for your car, the only thing zex reccomends when using thier system is replacing the spark plugs. Check into that, its also supposed to be easy to install yourself.

 

i think i read somewhere that a 75 is the max you can do but a 50 would be safer on a STOCK gs-r because of the high compression-ratio it has.

 

i actually read in SCC that a GS-R can handle a max of 120 shot with stock pistons and rods......but for how long?.........i talked to the owner of a local tuner shop and he told me that they have NEVER had any trouble with ZEX kits even on Neons, cavaliers, civics, and a lot of other four bangers. And for 500.00 you can't go wrong

 

Does anyone have first hand experience with nitrous? how fast do you think my GS-R would be down the 1/4 mile using a 50 shot or 75 shot? And horsepower gains?

 

Dont ask me about times.. but i ran a 75 shot on a relatively stock car.. first of all you need at least exhaust, feul pressure regulator to up the fp, plugs at least one step colder, some decent plug wires, a nitrous gauge for the cockpit, retard the timing a couple degrees and a good professional nitrous install... and most importantly.. common sense.

nitrous is great, but if you don't know anything about it and how it works, then you better have the cash ready for a rebuild...

if you can't afford to fix it 10 minutes later.. don't bolt on whatever it is your bolting on!!

 

My friend and fellow SQUAD 752 member run's a 60 shot NOS setup on an internally stock LS motor it is awesome and he has had no problem's he is running a FPR and 7 or 8 heat range plug's and should hit High 13's in Utah's high elevation

BTW the LS motor is in a 1980 pound 1993 Civic HB.

 

Yo,

I had the same 75 shot NOS Plate kit as GSRWBOOST. The power gain is roughly the shot TO THE WHEELS! So, a 75 shot adds roughly 75 HP to the wheels.

Get the basic mods like GSRWBOOST recommends.

I had one run with the N20 at the strip which resulted in a 14.4. The bottle heater was not working and bottle was less than half full. Also, my stock radio was unmounted and flew out during the 1-2 shift, delaying my 2-3 shift . When I had it running better, it was a solid 13 second car on street tires.

BTW, I have the NOS Plate kit for sale DIRT CHEAP.

It is NOS kit 2040 with jets from 75-200 HP. I have all the solenoids, a nearly full bottle (if I don't have to ship it), switches, brackets, etc. I also have a SPARE GSR manifold with the spray bars already installed. This would make it easier to revert to stock. Finally, it also has the bottle heater kit and the purge kit (for the cool psssshhh sound, hehe).

Anyway, shoot me an email if you're interested...

Thanks,

FB

 

When my car was stock motor...so so long ago....I put a NOS singlge fogger wet system on my stock GSR motor and it ran 13.3@104 with I,H,E. That was with a 50-shot.

-Alan

ARunto - who thinks he's in the Fast and the Furious and needs stage 1,2,3,4 of NOS to go 180mph in the 1/4 mile because 140MPH wasn't fast enough.

 

yah yo but he ju saw fast and furious and he dont want zex he wants NOS

 

im thinking about it. im running lower compression then a stock gsr. since my b20b4 should be in 8's. anyways, but im gonna feel weird going into dynamics and asking for nos. since f&f just came out

 

well i dont know about on a GS-R since it does have a higher compression ratio, but on my LS a 75 system can run low 13's all day long untill i got nos happy and bent 2 valves, im still crying cause it's in the shop....

 

Yup,

Gotta be careful on the spray.

Some people have problems right away, others run it for a long time with no issues (GSRWBOOST comes to mind).

FYI, my NOS Plate kit is in the Classifieds;
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=46984

I would recommend that you do a lot of research, and/or find people who are knowledgeable and have experience help with install and tuning. You also need some self-restraint. I think the analogies to drugs are valid

In general, be very conservative, make sure you have enough fuel, enough spark, not too much timing, not too much spark plug gap, keep an eye on bottle temp, bottle press. Honestly, if you stay inside the parameters at all times, you "should" be ok

Also, it's quite a rush to be on the bottle. My 14.4 was when the kit was first installed, and it was also my first drag strip run ever. I actually cut a .57 RT and a 2.275 60'! If it weren't for the 2-3 shift/radio problem and the inactive bottle heater I'm fairly certain it was already in high 13s shape. Course, excuses are like a$$holes

Later, when I had the bottle heater working, plugs, timing, and gap worked out, car was a friggin BEAST. I was already making 173 HP at the wheels (CTR intake cam, bolt-ons), so the 75 shot put me up to 225+ at the wheels or more. Massive wheelspin into 3rd gear, hehe, really transformed the car...

Final thought is on NOS vs other routes. I went the all motor route, so I'm not really compatible with the spray anymore (11.8:1 compression). If I were to do it over again, I would prep my car for DSP so I could be fairly competitive in Autox. My poor sedan is now Street mod . I would keep the N20, and bust low 13s or better at the drag strip (or have a little fun on the street). Like the best of both worlds. If you're turbo, your probably gonna be hurting at an autox. N/A won't necessarily rip at drag.
Finally, IMHO, I've found that even if you stay safe and go N/A you can and will still break things! This damn hobby is tough and often expensive, there are no "easy" routes...


FB

 

Compression does not matter with N20 the only concern is resisting detonation. N20 is compatible with any compression ratio as long as you take the proper precaution's. There is a VW GTI here in Utah running 11.5-1 compression piston's and a 150 shot wet setup. N20 is a great investment it is inexpensive and VERY safe if used properly (read: not too big of a shot, not too low octane gas, not too much advanced timing etc) 99% of people that blow there motor's right after install have INSTALLED it improperly or there engine was not in good condition from the get go. I am not a fan of ZEX N20 it just does not add up to me but that is how I am about anything new that is very different. The Kit to go with is the plate system and I would reccomend you stop hesitating and order it with an MSRP of 550.00$ there is no more bang for the buck period.

The only forseable drawback is refilling the bottle wanna solve that problem get a second bottle

 

Wow,

I just saw F&F and I know what you mean. It was like a NOS commercial

Good point about making sure your engine is in GREAT condition. Do a leak down, check compression, gotta have good plugs, wires, etc. Everything should be in tip top shape to avoid problems.

<last shameless plug>Don't forget my NOS plate kit for sale</last shameless plug>

FB

 

Hey berkel, you think that GSR plate kit can be modded to fit the skunk2 intake manifold? Just a thought. Oh by the way you need any ITR rods??

 

What's up man!

You didn't use the Rods? Dang, they have been with 4 diff people now and no has used them Also, Dave will prob set up another DFH shirt order since a few people didn't get them the first time around...

I agree that N20 is prob the form of FI "least" affected by high compression. For example, you wouldn't run turbo or SC with 11.8:1 compression.. However, it does increase cylinder pressure, so if you are already at high cylinder pressure with high compression, N20 may be pushing it too far. You could prob get a bunch of 1/4 mile runs in though

If no one buys the kit, I may save it for a project car: basically stock GSR motor and slap the kit in then drop into a hatch or something. Should be fun. I don't think I'll run it with my Toda setup in GG though..

Take care,

FB