Here's my B16A2 dyno plots. One is from this afternoon and the other is from about 3 weeks ago. Both are dynojet dynos but two different places. One place I did 4th gear pulls (the CD Performance one) and the one today (****'s) was 3rd gear pulls. Don't know if it makes a difference. I guess it depends on what there gear ratio is set at for that dyno. I'm still learning how to tune so I'm getting there but I'm not done yet. The plot from CD Performance ended up with intake +1 and exhaust -2. Today the intake was +1 and the exhaust was at 0. I haven't even started fooling with the timing yet. I started off with a Spoon base program. It's still got more power in it but I need more time. Overall I'm pretty happy with my results, especially knowing that it's got more power left in her.






ignore the max torque figure for run 16 on the 2nd dyno sheet. It spiked at the beginning and gave an inaccurate reading. It was right on with the other runs on that plot.



[Modified by stevel, 6:38 PM 3/22/2003]

 

oh yeah, here's my engine mods:

2000 B16a2 with JDM ITR tranny
CTR pistons
Spoon head gasket
ram air hooked to stock Si box
Spoon carbon intake elbow
paper filter
Spoon oil cap
JDM header w/ top heat shield
test pipe
Apexi World Sport exh (painted flat black)
USDM P30 ECU
Skunk2 OBD2-OBD1 Harness
Hondata stage 4
Skunk2 cam gears
Skunk2 stage one cams
Portflow inner valve springs
ITR Outer valve springs
Exedy clutch
ITR flywheel

On the ****'s dyno on runs 8, 9, & 10 the top of the airbox was removed and fuel added accordingly. Amazing the improvements it made. I saved it as a seperate ROM file because I don't know how it actually runs on the street. I don't know if my stock Si airbox is a restriction or the RAM air effect while moving will make up the difference and seem the same to the motor on the street as opposed to sitting on the dyno. Anyone have any input there? Some wideband street tuning is next.

s


[Modified by stevel, 6:11 PM 3/22/2003]

 

this may be a dumb question but how did one of those pulls jump up 13 ft/lbs??? j/w?
Ohh yea very nice #'s


[Modified by civicgsr19, 11:08 PM 3/22/2003]

 

edit: ignore the max torque figure for run 16 on the 2nd dyno sheet. It spiked at the beginning (??, clueless) and gave an inaccurate reading. It was right on with the other runs on that plot.

 

I was about to say if that was right you have the worlds greatest b16

 

a/f ratios look good too, meaning no big jumps like some people have in the midrange.

sweeeeeeeeeeeet.... hondata rocks

 

thank you, thank you...hold off the applause....thank you.

the CD plots were steve and i tuning his car. i would read the a/f plot and tell steve how to adjust it. steve would work his hondata magic and we got some good results. now we need to mess with the cam gears and ignition timing to squeeze as much power out of this puppy!

looking good steve!

 

it's only time & money, right?!?!?!

thanks again for all the help keith. Next time I'll show you how to use everything.

s

 

after driving around yesterday and today midrange is soooo much better.

nicey nice!!

s

 

umm.. maybe it's just me but i'm not seeing any midrange increases that would make it "soooo much better".. is there something i'm missing?

 

Wow, I sure am Glad I built a 1.8 on the Side and did not build my old 1.6!

At 6k i am making 150whp

But nice plot for a b16

Eric

 

those are nice numbers!

 

is that some program that you can buy in the storeto hook up to your car to dyno it?

 

Yes there is. Hmmm, I posted the wrong sheet from CD Performance. After run 17 I adjusted my cam gears to +1/-2 and added fuel accordingly. I didn't get in enough runs to add all the fuel it needed but I was getting there. My peak went down a hp or 2 but my midrange fattened up by like 8-10 lb/ft. Then for emissions testing I put the exhaust back to 0. Then after the dyno on saturday I left it at 0 and he didn't let me adjust it so after I left I did it and added some fuel in the midrange. That's where the difference is that you can't really see here.

s

 

now i see where you get your real hp from......

j/k nice numbers

 

hehehe...you're the 2nd person to say that! lol
Yeah, i didn't even realize i put that in there. I just copied and pasted from a list i had. thanks yO!

s

 

Its called a "Sprink Sports" ice box..

Glad the car is working out for you Steve, nice #'s ..

 

What chasis is this motor in?
and what did you ran at the track.
That is lot a money in that motor.

 

thanks brian! to some nice work. I opened up that duct all the way, hooked up 3" dryer hose to it and then hooked that to the tube coming off the box. That little hole you had there was probably really restricting. ITR box is on the way...we'll see if that makes a difference. The stock Si box is too small I think. Oh, and the brakes on this thing are so nice!! The pads dust a lot but man they bite really hard.

It's in a white EK hatch. Well, went to the track but the numbers were disappointing as the conditions sucked...no traction at the line and a 25mph headwind. Plus I think i was shifting too early. The tach is so off around 8k rpm. It'll be somewhere in the 14's...just not sure where. It's not a cheap setup but it's not gonna break the bank account. Any block from IB or the like will cost much more. Granted you get more but this is still much less $$$.

s



[Modified by stevel, 12:05 PM 4/4/2003]

 

nice numbers dude.... whats next mod wise??

 

don't know. What I would really love to do is get the block sleeved and bored out to 1.8L and run some 11.5:1 compression pistons with a balanced and lightened bottom end. That would be sick! Anyone on here done that? Dyno plots of that would be cool. I see people sleeving and boring 1.8 blocks all the time but boring a 1.6 block to 1.8 would give you the nice bump in tq and have that sweet r/s ratio. You could rev to like 11k if you wanted! That's just dreaming though. I probably won't do that. Next is maybe a bigger TB and port matching the IM to it. I'd really love to find a used ported B16 head. That would make some nice numbers with that bottom end.

Edit: Anyone know what the dip in TQ from 3.5k to 4.5k could be from? Do I need to richen it up there? I want to smooth that out and bring it up to make a straight line but I don't know what it's from. Is it the Si intake manifold, too small a TB for the engine or the JDM 4-1? I don't know. Any help would be cool.

s


[Modified by stevel, 12:02 PM 4/4/2003]


[Modified by stevel, 12:08 PM 4/4/2003]

 

anyone?

 

those are some nice numbers.... maybe getting some more aggresive cams would help... plus a b16 tranny.... i've been told by somone that the 1.8 trannies arn't as good for the b16's cause they're geared for the bigger engine... but don't quote me on that....

 

Good, good. Now you should go turbo.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92boostn'hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">those are some nice numbers.... maybe getting some more aggresive cams would help... plus a b16 tranny.... i've been told by somone that the 1.8 trannies arn't as good for the b16's cause they're geared for the bigger engine... but don't quote me on that....</TD></TR></TABLE>

JDM ITR tranny is geared shorter than the b16 tranny. The final drive makes the big difference in shortening the effective gear ratio. JDM ITR final drive is 4.785 while b16 is 4.4.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bobthemunchie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good, good. Now you should go turbo.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

eeehhhh, not with that compression ratio.

s