Ehh I know there hasnt been too many questions regaurding oil lines lately...but I just told my friend what he needs, so I thought I would share with you.

<FONT COLOR="blue">This setup is if you want to have a tee on the firewall, with two oil pressure senders (stock, and aftermarket) and an 1/8" npt thread on the turbo itself.</FONT>

All part numbers refer to http://www.mcmaster.com . Here is a screenshot of the final order.



Walkthrough of parts and why you need them:

<FONT COLOR="green">1</FONT>screws into tee on firewall, used for stock oil pressure sender

<FONT COLOR="green">2</FONT>screws into stock oil pressure sender hole, used for the 24" braided line.

<FONT COLOR="green">3</FONT>These two tees go on the firewall. They get oil from the block, and send oil to the the turbo and oil pressure sender(s)

<FONT COLOR="green">4</FONT>Hose from block to tee assembly on firewall

<FONT COLOR="green">5</FONT>Hose from tee assembly to turbo feed

<FONT COLOR="green">6</FONT>Used to connect the two tees on the firewall

<FONT COLOR="green">7</FONT>Fitting for the union between the hose from tee, and the turbo feed.


here is a rough overview of what you will see when you open the box, plus or minus a few things.


And here is the tee assembly on the firewall. Note stock oil pressure sender on bottom right tee, plug (because i dont have aftermarket oil pressure sender) on top right, oil feed to turbo on top left (not yet connected) and oil source on bottom left


If you do not want the tee on the firewall...

you can 1.) put it on the block
in which case add part number 50785K219, remove <FONT COLOR="green">3</FONT>, <FONT COLOR="green">4</FONT> and <FONT COLOR="green">6</FONT>.

or you can 2.) get rid any oil pressure sender, and simply keep part numbers <FONT COLOR="green">1</FONT>, <FONT COLOR="green">5</FONT> and <FONT COLOR="green">7</FONT>.

I hope this was more help than confusion...and hopefully I did not make any typos or errors. It took me a while to type all this in, I hope its worth it...

any questions, feel free to contact me,

Sebastian

 

what size is the oil hose? 3/16 = x an.

nice write thanks. i need to add the part for the oil pressure sensor to my setup. thanks

 

3/16" = 3an

 

thanks for the awesome write up

 

Been waiting for this..Thanks again.

 

Nice write up. I wish I spent my $$ a bit more wiser and went with that. Thanks for the adapters again. Just spent $100 on an air filter, gaskets and stuff for my oil return today. Can't wait until the break.

 

no problem...getting the rest of your fittings sent tomorrow.

<FONT COLOR="blue">NOTE: these lines have BRASS couplers to them...if you want stainless, add about 12 bucks!</FONT>

edit: 12 bones to each line. bout 25 bucks more total.


[Modified by B18EG6, 9:29 PM 3/4/2003]

 

That's a smart location to put it. I know on B series motors at least, you have to deal with a very, very tight space and modification to put the tee on the block.

Great Thread

One Question though, does the extra length hinder the oil delivery at all?

 

I dont know about pressure...but I know about volume...I figured out the volume of the tees and hoses...it was soo miniscule it didnt add up to anything.

i dont think pressure viariances will be an issue

 

Total FI n00b question, where do you guys normally intercept an oil source at?

 

Most Hondas, use the oil pressure sensor located on the back side of the motor near the oil filter.

 

Thanks for the write-up. I think i just might go with this setup.

 

Or you could support members on this board by buying it for $55 shipped from arturbo

 

Do you know what part I need to add for my Autometer oil pressure sender? Awesome write up. Thanks,

-Ryan

 

Art's comes with 37 degree flare fittings rather than straight NPT fittings, which means you can take them apart as many times as you need and never have to use teflon (except on the adapter fittings which you'll never take back out anyway)

 

Not trying to ***** your post but does anyone have pics of Art's oil feed setup?

-Ryan

 

 

true...

here is where it connects to the block

 

I've been looking but can't seem to find it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks,

-Ryan


[Modified by Kwuaymaikrup, 1:23 PM 3/5/2003]

 

im finding it...hold on

wait....the autometer sender is 1/8npt. it will fit onto the tee on the firewall.


[Modified by B18EG6, 4:32 PM 3/5/2003]

 

The pictures show SS ended hoses. The part numbers on your list are for brass ended hoses. Not that anything is wrong with brass. Those brass ones are the ones I'm using. The "NPT male union coupling to NPT male union coupling hoses" are actually just AN to AN hoses with NPT adapters included already. Mcmaster calls the AN fittings "JIC" for some reason.

 

good point...if it werent for you i would have never found out about mcmaster..but i thought i clarified the brass ends.

 

Ah I didn't see that part. I'm sure this post will help lots of people save money. Great write up.

Brass rules, because its cheap. I still don't see the advantage of using SS hose ends when everybody ends up using brass Tees anyways... weakest link and all.

If someones really hard up for cash you can save a few more bucks by opting for the hoses with only one "male union coupling" end and just get the plain male NPT on the other side like I did. It's probably worth the few extra dollars for spinning fittings on both sides though.

 

Thanks man...... no wonder why I couldn't find it.

-Ryan

 

Art and I are doing the oil feed line and oil return now...
I started it on my own last year.,..I sold almost 30-40 kits to honda-tech member and this is the first time I actually advertised it...it's all from words of mouth...

I appreciate it guys...

my Kit is the same, except, that my Tee is ONE PIECE with 1 male and 2 females ends, with the male on the run. Also, I am only using 1 lines, stainless braided lines with stainless steel hose ends...those pic is my kit...Art posted it..

again, the reason, I don't run separate line to the firewall, is because with the BSPT to NPT adapter, it DOES NOT put ANY stress on the block, since you have the correct thread and it's not de-threading the block...therefore, no crack, no leakes and no headaches...

I uses a 90 Deg bend 1/8" to-3AN adapter to the turbo, it looks so much cleaner than having a stick up oil lines...

Good info ...turbo plumbing is always seems to confusing for some people, but it's really not that hard....except remembering all the thread, fittings and flaring..not too mention NPT, Flared NPT, BSPT, BSP heheheh

stan