Hi, ive got a question about ARP headstuds. I bought Silverludesi's car recenlty and to just to let u guys know what ive got, heres a link:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=380514

The head was apart, and while it was i had Inline throw in some ARP's.
Right now i am running 7psi for low, and 10psi for high on my profec b....maybe up to 13 if the situation calls for it. This is on a t3/t04b .63 a/r stage 3 super v. I plan on runnin this turbo for a good bit, to just keep it a street car for now.

My question is, ive heard that i should retorque the ARP's after 500 miles? or 10 heat cycles? IS this totally nessecary?

My mech has said that he has also heard of this before, but hes never retorqued an arp, and has had no problems, but then again im not sure how many H series theyve worked on with FI.

The only reason i ask is that i am in school right now with no way of transportation,no tools, no time, and a very busy academic schedule. Otherwise i would retorque them myselves.

So what have been you're expiriences on boosted H or other series engines, do i need to retorque? Thanks for helpin a honda newb.




[Modified by MordecaiPSI, 10:57 PM 2/26/2003]

 

After reading that you should, I could not sleep right until I did it....it can't hurt. Plus, I had too much money in my car to risk it.

 

Retorque them when you get the chance. Its not hard, slightly harder than changing oil. Just take it easy till you do get a chance to torque them.

 

how is it slightly easier than changing oil??

 

i havent had a chance to look at the chilton ( its in the trunk of the car) But i was thinkin about that too. If i dont boost past 7 psi, and i tighten them when i have the chance like during my spring break in a month or so, u think it would be ok? YEa.. i dont see hwo it is almost liek changing ur oil.

 

Normally what is a good idea to do is, on installing them, torque them all to about 70ft-lb then loosen them and then torque to spec, loosen and retorqe. that should be all you need and should not have to retorque after any particular period of time.

 

Really. Hmm see that the thing, im getting both yay and nay on both sides who are equally reputable. If i do do it i have a feeling im gonna have to dish out some dough for my mech to do it since i dont have the tools or time to do it myself....and theyre asking $480 to re-torque...
Does that seem a little high for a cam job to anyone else?


[Modified by MordecaiPSI, 1:46 AM 2/27/2003]

 

thats alot of money!!

 

Thats what i was thinking.....kinda pricey to re-torque some studs and r&r some cams. I looked over some instructions on a cam job for just a b18 here on HT, assumign it would be similair in basic concept to an H23, and i deff am not gonna have the time or tools to do this now.
Which makes me lean more towards just not boosting till 7psi and waiting a month or so to retorque this.
Another thing, i would only be driving this from the shop, to my home, then i would have to come back to school. So the car would be drivin like maybe 300 miles tops, then it would sit at home for about 2/3 weeks depending if i can go home on weekends or not.

Is there anyone out there who has NOT retorqued thier ARP's and have seen adverse results?


[Modified by MordecaiPSI, 1:51 AM 2/27/2003]

 

ttt

 

Can they be retorqued without removing the cams?

On F series it just requires removing the valve cover and a torque wrench.

 

DO you have to remove the cams to retorque this head? If so then its about as hard as replacing a drive axle.

To retorque the bolts on my car, you lift the valve cover and go to town. Not hard at all.

 

Nah, u gotta remove the cams. Therefor im basically gonna get charged for a cam job.

 

$480 for that, **** that **** sorry bout the language but thats prison style *** raping.

 

let me guess... inlinepro gonna do the retorquing too? man just grab a torque wrench and do i yourself. i think it would take on inexperienced mechanic only about 2 hours at most! just make sure the card at tdc and go to town.

 

Ya, that's definetly steep.. ****, I'll do it at my house for $200 I'm located in Northern va.. Drop me an im if you're interested, shouldn't take more than 2 hrs tops..

EDIT: Sorry forgot to answer your question.. It's upto you really, it's really not necessary imo, I've seen many built motors that have never had their head retorqued w/ no ill effects..

-Mike


[Modified by SlowTeg, 3:24 PM 2/27/2003]

 

Man, it's gotta get expensive when you don't do your own work...

Suprdave

 

You are going to have to get them retorqued. I installed a set of arp studs and thicker headgasket on a stock block gsr. I torqued them down with moly lube to 70 ft-lbs. At the time i didnt know of any retorquing that needed to be done. Around 200-300 miles later i experieced overheating all the time. It was so severe that at idle within 5 minutes the car would be completely overheating. I tore the engine out of the car, thinking i blew the headgasket even with good compression and leak down numbers. The headgasket turned out to be fine, as well as all the internals but the arp head studs relaxed, and became very loose. They were around 40 ft-lbs when i loosened them up. Dont take the risk, have them retorqued. As far as having a mechanic do them, I wouldnt. Its pretty much the same precedure as changing the timing belt. It took me 5 hours to change a head and have the car back up and running. If you are just retorquing it should take about 3 hours if you take your time.

 

Yup. Its also hard when ur a student with no garage/tools/and most importantly TIME.... Can't wait till spring break.....where am i going??? Get some R&R with my car....go for some road trips

 

Seems to be a lot of diff opinions. Quicklude whos got basically same setup and ARP's hasent retorqued his yet, also due to time, and hasent seen any adverse effects. I think im just going to boost no more than 7psi, take it easy, and retorque them come spring break.

 

is this a must for all motors?i have a b-serie motor do i have to retorque my arp head studs?

 

Did you put ARP headstuds on your motor??

 

I actually just changed my cams on my LSVTEC with 12:5.1 compress. wisecos,
I ve sprayed the motor with a 75 shot. I went to retorque the headstuds while I had everything apart, and they were still at 65. when I first installed them I torqued em down, and then broke em loose, and then retorqued em. By the way the motor had about 2k miles when I went to retorqued em

 

So when u went to re-torque the studs, they were same specs? Otherwords, no need to retorque in your case?

 

only new studs needs to be re-torque after 10 heat cycles, used studs can be re-install without having to retorque them..

can you imagine if we have to re-torque them everytime we tear the engine apart ?

stan