Dyno results...need some ??? answered
Okay went to the dyno after new header(dc jdm 4-1), FPR and fuel pressure gauge and walbro 190lph pump install.
Untuned and running wayy rich I rolled 158.6 then after tuning on my VAFC and adj the cams 173.4. 00 C5 aem shorty, dc jdm 4-1, tanabe RM 2.25, fpr, VAFC, toda cam gears. I know the exhaust is a bottleneck but I am changing it soon enough....
My questions include:
Does elevation effect dyno #'s?
How far can you adjust stock ITR cams on a stock 00 C5 motor (deck height, head etc.)?
Can I run 20 deg timing and are the benefits worth the effort? Currently at 17
Should I tune more to the rich side of things 12.5:1 or should I keep things near 13-13.5:1 for max power?
What psi do most motors in the 170-200whp range have....I am around 56 with the hose pinched....can I go higher, should I go higher ( lean it out with VAFC)
Off subject question....full throttle pass...1 , 2 fine....3rd at 7K....pauses/holds 7K (I let off and put the clutch in) I know its not lean....what is it?
Thanks in advance guys.
Untuned and running wayy rich I rolled 158.6 then after tuning on my VAFC and adj the cams 173.4. 00 C5 aem shorty, dc jdm 4-1, tanabe RM 2.25, fpr, VAFC, toda cam gears. I know the exhaust is a bottleneck but I am changing it soon enough....
My questions include:
Does elevation effect dyno #'s?
How far can you adjust stock ITR cams on a stock 00 C5 motor (deck height, head etc.)?
Can I run 20 deg timing and are the benefits worth the effort? Currently at 17
Should I tune more to the rich side of things 12.5:1 or should I keep things near 13-13.5:1 for max power?
What psi do most motors in the 170-200whp range have....I am around 56 with the hose pinched....can I go higher, should I go higher ( lean it out with VAFC)
Off subject question....full throttle pass...1 , 2 fine....3rd at 7K....pauses/holds 7K (I let off and put the clutch in) I know its not lean....what is it?
Thanks in advance guys.
if the results are Standardized (SAE) then no difference as they have been already altered to account for the change.
about 5 degrees either way is the safe limit
you can run as much timing as you want but more dyno tuning is required. some motors when the timing is adavanced loose few horses so it all depends.
in NA cars 13-13.5:1 is fine. anything more rich is really unnecessary
56 psi
no wonder you run super rich with the mods you mentioned:
- 45-50psi should have been your limit.
about 5 degrees either way is the safe limit
you can run as much timing as you want but more dyno tuning is required. some motors when the timing is adavanced loose few horses so it all depends.
in NA cars 13-13.5:1 is fine. anything more rich is really unnecessary
56 psi
no wonder you run super rich with the mods you mentioned:- 45-50psi should have been your limit.
if the results are Standardized (SAE) then no difference as they have been already altered to account for the change.
about 5 degrees either way is the safe limit
you can run as much timing as you want but more dyno tuning is required. some motors when the timing is adavanced loose few horses so it all depends.
in NA cars 13-13.5:1 is fine. anything more rich is really unnecessary
56 psi
no wonder you run super rich with the mods you mentioned:
- 45-50psi should have been your limit.
about 5 degrees either way is the safe limit
you can run as much timing as you want but more dyno tuning is required. some motors when the timing is adavanced loose few horses so it all depends.
in NA cars 13-13.5:1 is fine. anything more rich is really unnecessary
56 psi
no wonder you run super rich with the mods you mentioned:- 45-50psi should have been your limit.
I think we set your fuel pressure to 50psi Serg..
lol I think I need to take it up a couple psi and then lean the rest out...plus I wont through a code for having the VAFC at over +20
I really wonder how the car is going to respond to that USDM P73....I have a feeling the maps are gonna be much better for tuning.....B16 ecu for my ITR motor =
to meI think she has quite a few more ponies left in there somewhere....anyone go -3 or -4 on exhaust before?
I think you're in for a treat in the near future!!!
I'll be contacting MG this week to speak to them more about tuning your car... I've got a few ideas, but ideally we should have ran the car the way you run it at the track.... Tune for the track screw the rest...
I'll be contacting MG this week to speak to them more about tuning your car... I've got a few ideas, but ideally we should have ran the car the way you run it at the track.... Tune for the track screw the rest...
I think you're in for a treat in the near future!!!
I'll be contacting MG this week to speak to them more about tuning your car... I've got a few ideas, but ideally we should have ran the car the way you run it at the track.... Tune for the track screw the rest...
I'll be contacting MG this week to speak to them more about tuning your car... I've got a few ideas, but ideally we should have ran the car the way you run it at the track.... Tune for the track screw the rest...
No biggie right lol....I think I can do it at sea level....
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Anybody else care to offer an opinion or two?

--I usually dont see many people making much gains after going over 18 degrees for timing.
--A VAFC should really only be used to take fuel OUT, not 'add' fuel. Usually its not very efficient.
--Most people go between 5-7 degrees advancing/retarding cams. Best idea is to clay your motor (if you build it, etc.) but - I'd stick around 5-7. If you are using stock ITR cams, and no material has been removed, compression has not been affected, you should be fine. People using high lift cams such as Toda's advance/retard as much as 5-7 as well, so with the smaller lift of the ITR cams you should be fine. If that makes sense.
--SAE corrected, as stated above will take care of your elevation, et al.
--13:1 is a good AF ratio to stay around while tuning. Esp when you dont have something more efficient, like a standalone.
--50psi pinched should be enough. I'm assuming you are using stock injectors and stock ECU, correct? A stock ITR ECU *typically* has your car running rich to begin with. Think about that, and now you are running more then the stock spec on FP., with a bigger fuel pump. No wonder you are rich.
Anybody else care to offer an opinion or two?
Note: Opinion only.
--I usually dont see many people making much gains after going over 18 degrees for timing.
--A VAFC should really only be used to take fuel OUT, not 'add' fuel. Usually its not very efficient.
--Most people go between 5-7 degrees advancing/retarding cams. Best idea is to clay your motor (if you build it, etc.) but - I'd stick around 5-7. If you are using stock ITR cams, and no material has been removed, compression has not been affected, you should be fine. People using high lift cams such as Toda's advance/retard as much as 5-7 as well, so with the smaller lift of the ITR cams you should be fine. If that makes sense.
--SAE corrected, as stated above will take care of your elevation, et al.
--13:1 is a good AF ratio to stay around while tuning. Esp when you dont have something more efficient, like a standalone.
--50psi pinched should be enough. I'm assuming you are using stock injectors and stock ECU, correct? A stock ITR ECU *typically* has your car running rich to begin with. Think about that, and now you are running more then the stock spec on FP., with a bigger fuel pump. No wonder you are rich.
Note: Opinion only.

--I usually dont see many people making much gains after going over 18 degrees for timing.
--A VAFC should really only be used to take fuel OUT, not 'add' fuel. Usually its not very efficient.
--Most people go between 5-7 degrees advancing/retarding cams. Best idea is to clay your motor (if you build it, etc.) but - I'd stick around 5-7. If you are using stock ITR cams, and no material has been removed, compression has not been affected, you should be fine. People using high lift cams such as Toda's advance/retard as much as 5-7 as well, so with the smaller lift of the ITR cams you should be fine. If that makes sense.
--SAE corrected, as stated above will take care of your elevation, et al.
--13:1 is a good AF ratio to stay around while tuning. Esp when you dont have something more efficient, like a standalone.
--50psi pinched should be enough. I'm assuming you are using stock injectors and stock ECU, correct? A stock ITR ECU *typically* has your car running rich to begin with. Think about that, and now you are running more then the stock spec on FP., with a bigger fuel pump. No wonder you are rich.
There is a member with Skunk2 Stage 1 cams that went +15 on the intake side....stock everything else...is 5-7 really the upper limit or is that more of a "just set it and forget it" range. I dont know if going +7 on the intake will really help more but if it does I woudl like to know for sure I have that "safe" adjustment range.
Also I am on a 99 B16 ecu....very differnt fuel strategy as well as timing. Stock ITR psi is 54 pinched...apparently mine was at 50 for some reason (Anothony lol)
So I had to add fuel (a no no with VAFC but it works) which brought the A/F back into the safe range. Although I am running high 12's A/F in the lower regions once in VTEC the motor is pretty solid in the 13's followed by high 12's up top 7.5K on.
This setup will only be used for another week. The USDM P73 ecu should make me have to change all my fuel settings once again but I look forward to making more power with it...and revving higher.
My main reason for the timing bump is throttle response...I noticed a big jump in response when I went from 12-16deg...and now 17 feels a little better (along with the bump from the cam settings) so advancing to 20 would mainly be for throttle response...a power gain would be nice but even if it allowed the motor to rev just alittle quicker I would prefer it....as long as it would be safe to do so.
Thanks for the tips though
Wish more people would chime in...
I lied we did set it to 54 pinched.. I remember now.. Just check it to make sure.. We will get it tuned just perfect after the ecu and 2.5 exhaust.. Doug will hook us up with some good time.. We can get it tuned ourselves guaranteed...
There is a member with Skunk2 Stage 1 cams that went +15 on the intake side....stock everything else...is 5-7 really the upper limit or is that more of a "just set it and forget it" range. I dont know if going +7 on the intake will really help more but if it does I woudl like to know for sure I have that "safe" adjustment range.
There is a member with Skunk2 Stage 1 cams that went +15 on the intake side....stock everything else...is 5-7 really the upper limit or is that more of a "just set it and forget it" range. I dont know if going +7 on the intake will really help more but if it does I woudl like to know for sure I have that "safe" adjustment range.
I know of someone who had it set to +15 intake, -5 exhaust using Toda Spec B's, C5 motor, stock compression. I used to run mine +10,-5, same cams. *shrugs* Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
I know of someone who had it set to +15 intake, -5 exhaust using Toda Spec B's, C5 motor, stock compression. I used to run mine +10,-5, same cams. *shrugs* Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
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