20 whp from dh-racing race pulley?
Don't buy that pulley. The pulley has no teeth marks on the inside. I'll show you pics of my pulley to show you what I mean. I went to Dave personally, so I know who he is.
thats not very nice to say...
i had that pully worked GREAT for me, never a single problem. if your smart enough you can put your own marks on it for TDC.
requires some mixing and matching as far as pully belts go. but i thought it was well worth it.
by the way...
i made 190 to the wheels on a stock block PR3 B16 at 9000 rpms. with CTR CAMS.
tuned at importbuilders and on their website now as "NEW RECORD"
i had that pully worked GREAT for me, never a single problem. if your smart enough you can put your own marks on it for TDC.
requires some mixing and matching as far as pully belts go. but i thought it was well worth it.
by the way...
i made 190 to the wheels on a stock block PR3 B16 at 9000 rpms. with CTR CAMS.
tuned at importbuilders and on their website now as "NEW RECORD"
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i dont like the fact that alluminum pulleys dont have the anti vibration a stock pulley has. i stick with oem as far as pulleys go.extra vibration on a street motor = your gonna have some problems in the future. some last some dont. as far as 20hp?? i think thats a bit extreme. i would be impressed if a pulley gives you more then 1whp. just my 2 cents.
i stick with oem as far as pulleys go.extra vibration on a street motor = your gonna have some problems in the future. some last some dont. as far as 20hp?? i think thats a bit extreme. i would be impressed if a pulley gives you more then 1whp. just my 2 cents.
The motor I'm building right now has a ITR Pulley, with the PS Portion shaved off and neutral balanced.
Suprdave
yes thats exactly what i do to my pulleys when the customer requests it. but i also have them 0 balanced after.. stock pulley shaved down =
any kind of non oem alluminum pulley =
belongs in the garbage. or can make a nice paperwight.
any kind of non oem alluminum pulley =
belongs in the garbage. or can make a nice paperwight.
Shaving the stock pulley??? Hell I never thought that would work, hmmm, that's a good idea.... I'm assuming that's just cutting off the AC and PS portions of the pulley, since they'll never get used anyway? More info PLEASE I'd like to do this soon if that's the case, and I know a very good machinist with a rotational balancer to take care of the balancing also
You only shave the PS Portion, because the Harmonic Balancer material (Rubber) only goes through the first 2 layers of the pulley.
Suprdave
Suprdave
the rubber in the stock pulleys is not a harmonic balancer!
it's there for one reason...to aliviate the pressure off the crank from all the accesories PS,AC and alternator.
Wnen all those are in place and the belts are at their tension it puts too much stress on the crank especially #1 main bearing...so honda put rubber layer to help the crank out.
when you are only running alternator the its safe to use a pulley without rubber as long as it's balanced.
Honda even makes the CTR race pulley without it because it only drives the alternator.
it is not a harmonic balancer.
I've had my UR race pulley for 4 years and i tore the bottom end down a few times to re-ring it and bearings look cherry.
I think that cutting the stock on is even better because you still hevr the rubber cussion however you dont get the benefit the lighter and smaller pulley (underdrive)
like max said its only worth 1hp if even that.
it's there for one reason...to aliviate the pressure off the crank from all the accesories PS,AC and alternator.
Wnen all those are in place and the belts are at their tension it puts too much stress on the crank especially #1 main bearing...so honda put rubber layer to help the crank out.
when you are only running alternator the its safe to use a pulley without rubber as long as it's balanced.
Honda even makes the CTR race pulley without it because it only drives the alternator.
it is not a harmonic balancer.
I've had my UR race pulley for 4 years and i tore the bottom end down a few times to re-ring it and bearings look cherry.
I think that cutting the stock on is even better because you still hevr the rubber cussion however you dont get the benefit the lighter and smaller pulley (underdrive)
like max said its only worth 1hp if even that.
the rubber in the stock pulleys is not a harmonic balancer!
it's there for one reason...to aliviate the pressure off the crank from all the accesories PS,AC and alternator.
Wnen all those are in place and the belts are at their tension it puts too much stress on the crank especially #1 main bearing...so honda put rubber layer to help the crank out.
when you are only running alternator the its safe to use a pulley without rubber as long as it's balanced.
Honda even makes the CTR race pulley without it because it only drives the alternator.
it is not a harmonic balancer.
I've had my UR race pulley for 4 years and i tore the bottom end down a few times to re-ring it and bearings look cherry.
I think that cutting the stock on is even better because you still hevr the rubber cussion however you dont get the benefit the lighter and smaller pulley (underdrive)
like max said its only worth 1hp if even that.
it's there for one reason...to aliviate the pressure off the crank from all the accesories PS,AC and alternator.
Wnen all those are in place and the belts are at their tension it puts too much stress on the crank especially #1 main bearing...so honda put rubber layer to help the crank out.
when you are only running alternator the its safe to use a pulley without rubber as long as it's balanced.
Honda even makes the CTR race pulley without it because it only drives the alternator.
it is not a harmonic balancer.
I've had my UR race pulley for 4 years and i tore the bottom end down a few times to re-ring it and bearings look cherry.
I think that cutting the stock on is even better because you still hevr the rubber cussion however you dont get the benefit the lighter and smaller pulley (underdrive)
like max said its only worth 1hp if even that.
I agree, ive ran the aluminum UR pulley 2 years on my race motors and street motors and notice the bearing wear on the cylinder 1 to very minimal as what has been said about these pulleys. i just think its all in personal preference i know people who swear by it and some who think its the least of thier concerns. the only problem i notice with the UR pulley is taking it off after running it for long times. if you know what i mean....150psi+
You can argue either way, but here's my take on it...
Running it, I run the 'chance' of doing damage.
Not Running it, I don't...
One less thing to worry about. Anything to cut down on Oil Pump and Bearing problems...All I know is, Crank Harmonics are real...
Suprdave
Running it, I run the 'chance' of doing damage.
Not Running it, I don't...
One less thing to worry about. Anything to cut down on Oil Pump and Bearing problems...All I know is, Crank Harmonics are real...
Suprdave
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From: Woodbridge, NJ, Middlesex
anyone have this pulley ? 20 whp seems to me a bit extreme for a pulley. what do you guys think?
also, if the bottom end wasn't balanced then pulley was changed and the newer pulley more closely matched a weight to bring bottom end balance, then that can equate to more gains, but not 20whp worth ...
greg
The 20whp was made on an ITR that also had the A/C and P/S removed. I was told that the pulley will add 10% more whp to whatever your set-up is now. I have no idea if its true or not, but the car will be on the dyno soon.
I was also wondering about engine harmonics. Anyone out there using this pulley have any problems? Engine vibrations, bearing failures?? What belt did you guys use (part #)???
I was also wondering about engine harmonics. Anyone out there using this pulley have any problems? Engine vibrations, bearing failures?? What belt did you guys use (part #)???
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eb...oDisplayType=2
hope that link works, i found it the other day while browsing around for ****.
hope that link works, i found it the other day while browsing around for ****.
OK guy,s the pulley really works i have a dyno sheet to prove it as for the vibration problems there are none how it works is the pulley is press fit so it will not vibrate and it only drives the alternator it turns a 25.2 inch belt at a 60-70% decrease in speed and bypasses the power steering and the air-conditioning it,s simple it is 5 lbs lighter than the stock pulley which will increase your acceleration rate dramatically also the pulley is made of aluminum which absorbs vibration because it is much softer than the stock steel plus it does not have holes drilled all through it
i invented the pulley for my car i made 700 HP on the dyno with it at over 30 PSI on my motor and have never taken it off i have not even pulled my motor out of my car it has made over 100 nine and 10 second passes in palmdale with no problems originally this pulley was not made with the intent of selling but only to make my car faster so don, t limit your motors potential when you could experience the unbelievable power gains i could give you dyno sheets and 10 or more testimonials from my customers that will swear buy it....
i invented the pulley for my car i made 700 HP on the dyno with it at over 30 PSI on my motor and have never taken it off i have not even pulled my motor out of my car it has made over 100 nine and 10 second passes in palmdale with no problems originally this pulley was not made with the intent of selling but only to make my car faster so don, t limit your motors potential when you could experience the unbelievable power gains i could give you dyno sheets and 10 or more testimonials from my customers that will swear buy it....
i would love to see a dhracing car other than his come out one day. u claim u have so many customers i have never seen anyone repping dhracing, at the track on the street, nowhere.


