B18C1 with :
AEM CAI, JDM 4-1 Header, 2.5 to 2.2.5 highflow cat, to Apexi N1 Exhaust.
Skunk 2 Stage 1 cams, Skunk 2 Intake Manifold, Apexi VAFC, B&M FPR.

Would upgraded (skunk2) head parts help me? What should i do with my block? CTR pistons? Forged pistons/rods?????What kinda compression would be the best?

My main goal is 13's in my GSR in street trim, with a daily driver reliability.
Help me out!

 

maybe maybe 185-190 whp with tuning....ctr pistons would be nice..but get urself some higher comp. aftermarket ones...say 12.2-3:1 comp...TUNE IT AND GET SLICKS TOO..............

 

oh and more skunk head parts would help ur rpms go+++++++++

 

Would upgraded rods be needed at all? Couldnt i just get CTR pistons and get a thinner headgasket to up my compression? What would skunk2 parts help in my head? Would swapping out to a b16 head be beneficial or is my b18c head good? What kinda TB should i get on my skunk 2 manifold?

 

Bump//

 

dont need new rods....caould get a smaller headgasket to up compression, keep under12.5 doe daily driving...any brand of valvetrain components etc..headparts will give you better numbers, let you rev higher, make your motor built better obviously...dont need to swap heads, theyre about the same...but i personaly like b16 better, but not on a GSR bottom use ur stock one...and get a 70mmTB thats what i use on NA cars.

 

i currently have CTR pistons in my GSR & unless i'm running 100 octane fuel, my power is down. i think my knock sensor is to blame. i notice a big difference when i run the 100 vs. 93. it almost want's to driven at 10/10th's, all the time. that might be something you'll want to concider when choosing "daily driven" compression.
i did have USDM Type R pistons first, and they were a nice moderate compromise of increased power & tq. i think ideally the USDM Type R's with the SpoonSports or Mugen head gasket would be the one. it should put you right in the 10.9-11.1:1 area. that should be ok for 93 octane pump gas.

 

So 93 Octane is not good with the use of CTR pistons (whats that like 12.5 Compression>&gt..i was unaware of that.

Im bassiccly looking for a setup that will get me 13's

 

no, you can drive on 93 octane. what happens is, your knock sensor detects a little detonation & retards the timing. i took a quote from a post i remember reading over at vtec.net. it's pretty informative. :

"The Scoop on octane. What it is, what it does, how it affects horsepower.

The Octane rating of gasoline is a measure of a fuel's ability to resist knocking. That's it. It has nothing to do with power - at least not directly. What is knocking? It is the tendency of the fuel-air mixture to spontaneously ignite prior to the spark ignition. This uncontrolled detonation is caused by the fuel-air mixture reaching its flash point too soon in the cylinder's cycle. What is a flash point? It is the temperature at which the fuel will combust (Everything has a flash point). As the pressure increases, the temperature of the fuel-air mixture increases. (All those molecules smashing into each other) If the compression is high enough, the temperature will rise high enough for detonation This is why engines with higher compression require higher octane fuels. It's also the theory behind diesel engines, but that's another topic...

Side note: Engine knocking can be VERY damaging to the engine itself. That is why knock detection systems were developed. This is especially true with today's lightweight, thin walled, high revving, aluminum engines.

Scientific Mumbo-jumbo on octane:
Primary reference fuels are made up of only two types of hydrocarbons: iso-octane and heptane. Iso-octane alone has an octane rating of 100, while heptane alone has a rating of zero. Reference fuel octane ratings are determined by the percent of iso-octane versus heptane. (90% iso-octane and 10% heptane equals 90 octane) The fuel you get at a gas station is comprised of much more than just iso-octane and heptane. Various other additives are added for various reasons; knock prevention, emissions, storage stability, fuel system cleaners, reduction of fossil fuel use, etc. Almost all of these additives raise the octane number, because they reduce the energy density of the fuel. The exception to this rule is alcohol. Alcohols have the great property of raising both the octane rating and the fuel's energy density. That is why so many drag cars and ultra-high performance (high compression) cars use alcohol fuels.
The octane of commercial gasoline is derived by comparing the fuels performance in a test setting to a reference fuel consisting of only iso-octane and heptane. The fuel is tested under high load conditions (MON) and low load conditions (RON). The average of these two numbers is usually given at the pump. (Check the label)

How different octane fuels CAN affect power:
First off, higher octane gasoline DOES NOT equal higher power, in general terms. In fact, it can mean the opposite. (For those already saying I'm full of it, stick with me) Gasolines with higher octane levels are actually LESS energy dense than lower octane fuels. Put the two different fuels in identical engines with the same fixed timing and the same compression ratio, and you will get LESS power with the higher octane fuel.

Most cars over 15 years old have "fixed timing". In order to change the timing advance you had to loosen a bracket at the distributor and physically rotate the distributor and re-tighten it. Putting low octane in these cars can be a big problem. Many newer cars use knock sensors attached to the side of the engine block to detect premature ignition. When detected, the sensor tells the computer to retard the timing.

How does retarding the timing prevent knock?
Retarding the timing doesn't really prevent the knock; it just moves the intended ignition timing closer to when the knock occurs, so the two events aren't fighting each other. Basically, optimum timing for ignition is around 10 degrees after TDC. (Due to the mechanics of the crank arm) Many people think peak pressure happens at TDC, but valve timing allows some blow by at TDC, preventing this. You need to make sure the fuel does not ignite before or exactly at TDC as that would try to push the piston the wrong way - not good. Knock will occur between TDC and 10 degrees past, while the chamber pressure is rising. Retarding the timing will try to match the knock point, thereby reducing the pressure at the point of ignition, thereby reducing power.

After all that explanation, here is my point. While almost all cars today can detect low octane fuel and retard the timing, almost no cars today have the ability detect higher octane and advance the timing to take advantage. Usually because the set compression ratio allows optimal timing with lower octane. Advancing past this point will reduce power. If an engine can be timed for ignition at peak cylinder pressure using 87 octane fuel, then putting higher octane in will only cost you power. And cost you money.

I won't get into Honda design specifics, as I don't want to lose my job.

To those who wonder, yes Honda engineers do read these forums. We do take your ideas to heart, but keep in mind the Accord is a family car, and a good family car should not require premium fuel... "


hopefully that helps explain it a little. remember that, with a small 4cyl all motor engine, weight is your enemy. anything you can do to lessen the drag on the motor, will help you. some light wheels, flywheel, & pullies can help. no excess stereo equipment.
your engines cooling system is alot of times overlooked, & is somewhere else you can pick up some small gains. high flow aluminum radiator, sylicon radiator hoses, low-temp thermostat, high-pressure radiator cap, thermo-switch, high volume fans, etc...
also, thermo wrapping your exhaust manifold & the SpoonSports thermo blanket for the oil pan should help keep alot of heat away from the oil & the motor.
a cool motor, is a smoother, faster motor.


[Modified by civicgsir, 12:22 PM 2/19/2003]

 

Thanks, that was imformative, although kinda confusing at points..

 

what is your current set up now. wheels, engine, etc...?

 

Imed ya!

 

well, me being a new user on this forum has prevented me from getting im's.
how long before this status wears off? everytime i go to a new page, i get a error message saying "you can't use im!". it's getting on my nerves a little.
is it time based or the amount of post that determines status?