Dry sump?
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Lost in, NC, United States
Has anybody converted their H22 from wet sump to a dry sump set up?
I have heard that this can free up a lot of horsepower. I was wondering how much it costs and what kind of gains would be seen.
Also i dont know to much about the whole thing. If someone could go into detail about how it exactly works I would appreciate it.
I have heard that this can free up a lot of horsepower. I was wondering how much it costs and what kind of gains would be seen.
Also i dont know to much about the whole thing. If someone could go into detail about how it exactly works I would appreciate it.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 2,072
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From: land of the sheep, home of the hypocrite
Hey, what do you know, some real information for this web site:
http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/honda2.html
http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/honda2.html
Custom oil pan, lots of AN fittings and lines, a dry sump pump, remote filter, and a oil sump is needed. You'll have to block the stock oil pump so oil doesn't just flow backwards into your oil pan instead of going through the block. All is all, it is about a $3000 job...
Kirk
Kirk
A dry sump oil system is just that - the sump at the bottom doesn't hold the oil supply, it is only a collection point for oil draining out of the rest of the engine.
The pump, driven externally by a pulley on the crank, is most commonly a gearotor (one gear inside another, the outer gear having one more tooth) and has between two and six pumping sections, or stages.
Most commonly, all but one of the stages are used to scavenge (suck) hot, dirty oil out of the pan, and in some applications, from the head (I almost said heads - I grew up on poorly built American V-8s...
) for oil from the valvetrain. This oil then goes to the tank, which also serves as an air-oil separator. The last stage of the pump then draws this oil from the tank and routes it through the filter, (usually) a cooler, pressure regulator, then into the engine, usually through an adaptor in place of the stock oil filter.
The advantages are:
-adjustable oil flow (by changing the pulley arrangement)
-more reliable delivery in hard acceleration/cornering (turbo bearings too)
-more power as the crank doesn't have to splash through all the oil in the pan
-a bit of a vacuum in the crankcase, which aids in cylinder sealing.
-simple repairs - you don't have to open your engine to replace a flaky pump
Also, you can put your filter wherever you like (which can be double-edged if you haven't got a lot of room to start with - you have to put it somewhere)
Hope this helps. Jim.
The pump, driven externally by a pulley on the crank, is most commonly a gearotor (one gear inside another, the outer gear having one more tooth) and has between two and six pumping sections, or stages.
Most commonly, all but one of the stages are used to scavenge (suck) hot, dirty oil out of the pan, and in some applications, from the head (I almost said heads - I grew up on poorly built American V-8s...
) for oil from the valvetrain. This oil then goes to the tank, which also serves as an air-oil separator. The last stage of the pump then draws this oil from the tank and routes it through the filter, (usually) a cooler, pressure regulator, then into the engine, usually through an adaptor in place of the stock oil filter.The advantages are:
-adjustable oil flow (by changing the pulley arrangement)
-more reliable delivery in hard acceleration/cornering (turbo bearings too)
-more power as the crank doesn't have to splash through all the oil in the pan
-a bit of a vacuum in the crankcase, which aids in cylinder sealing.
-simple repairs - you don't have to open your engine to replace a flaky pump
Also, you can put your filter wherever you like (which can be double-edged if you haven't got a lot of room to start with - you have to put it somewhere)
Hope this helps. Jim.
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