This is for those with fully built h22's...

I want to see how much your pushing to the wheels from an all motor set up. ( mostly if anyone in the 300whp range )

Please post your set-up and numbers...dyno sheets would be good too... thanx

 

Did you really just say 300whp all motor H22? Please tell me that was a typo?

 

i just want to see how close people have gotten to 300 whp, i've seen some with 276 i want to know what it took to get there and if anyone has gone higher.

 

You are looking for "race Engine" only set-ups or Street engines? The HP you have seen, is it WHP or rated at crankshaft?

 

You're gonna have to show me some details on that...

 

street engine set ups, i wanted to see how much can you actually squeeze out of an h22, i know theres an enourmous amount of hp you can get from fi but this is just some test research i'm doing...i wasnt looking for JUST 300 whp, just whatevers closest, even if it's 230 whp i just want to see how much can you get out of the engine.

 

i've seen it from someone on here, i was searchin throught the archives ( which is why i had to post ) and saw 276 or something like that all motor in someones sig, i dont know if it was whp or crank, which is why i'm asking for a run down of ppl with all motor set ups, me personally i'll be happy if it can get 250 whp all motor, if it cant, hey it was just a thought...anyway..i'll come back and see if theres any postings on what i'm asking...

laterz...

 

Okay, well my fully built stroked H23 VTEC only made 203whp and 160tq. But I think this was high end breathing issues and not enough tuning. Also, considering the motor busted after 10,000kms something wasn't right.

Currently I am destroking with an F20B crank (From the Accord SIR-T CF4) to try and breakthrough the 220whp barrier that most street driven allmotor H22a's can't seem to cross. I'l be removing balance shafts and breathing much better at high rpms..with a 1.65 Rod/Stroke and 2093cc displacement, 87x88. Details of the build are here https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=316401 and a collection of the junk going in is in my sig.

Shooting for 250whp


[Modified by satan_srv, 11:27 AM 1/13/2003]

 

Most people here have seen this and are probably sick of me by now...
BTW, this is a 2.44ltr




Engine Block: '93 H22a "bored and stroked" to 2.44ltrs of displacement built by Collective Racing. Custom 98mm Crank (Balanced and nitrited), Darton sleeves, Crower Pro-billet rods, Custom 12/1 compression 89mm JE pistons, Prodrive oil pump, Unorthodox Racing Crank pulley, manual timing belt tensioner conversion.

Cylinder head: Ported and polished by Collective Racing, Web Cams custom camshafts, Web Cams springs and Titainium retainers, Euro Type R manifold conversion, Hondata intake manifold gasket, Erick's Racing 70-68mm Throttle body, RC engineering 440cc Fuel injectors, B&M fuel pressure riser and Guage, STR cam seal, AEM cam gears, SMSP 4-1 header, ARP head studs, SCE copper head gasket.

Misc: JDM "blue" valve cover, Dyna Batt 11lb. battery, Nology coil, AEM 3" cold air intake, Apexi VAFC, AEM underdrive pulleys.

Suspension/brakes/wheels: LSR full damper coilovers with Eibach springs 500lb front 600lb rear, Prothane bushings, Powerslot front and rear rotors, Accord wagon front and rear disk conversion, Axxis Metal master pads, Landspeed Upper strut tower brace, Goodridge Stainless brake lines, ARP extended wheel studs, 17" SSR Integrals (street) Bogart drag stars (track)

 

thats cool, i cant wait until you finish the project, if you can reach 250whp that would be excellent. Now that i know whats the round numbers on the all motor apps it looks pretty good. Keep me posted on your progress

 

yea i know about your engine and i must say and GOT DAMN, i've been on here for a lil bit and saw you in SCC and about your journies with the h22 ( or should i say h24 ) those are some nice numbers for an all motor app, and your engine bay is simply immaculant...i got some questions for ya, are your sig times the current times from the destroke ? how much did you actually spend on the build ? can i have your car ? hey but good going on that and keep it up...you know i love that car, all motor h22 in a 4g cord. Your paint scheme is not my style but..WHO CARES that car screams SLEEPER ! lol ... ok i'm done


laterz....

EDIT:...ok i saw in the post you made about how much you spent on the engine...and i have yet another question...you were talking about " but how long do we actually plan on keeping our cars anyway " well, i plan on keeping it for a fairly long time ( 5g cord ) whenever i get it, thats why i was looking into all motor apps. Question is, isnt building your motor going to add more life to the engine ? i mean, your reinforcing all types of parts that was designed to last the life of the car anyway..wouldnt building be an even more improvement ? ( help me if i took it the wrong way )...and if i was to go with a duplicate of your all motor set up what would i have to change in order for me to run nitrous in order to get in 12's ? i think a 55 would do it indefinitely, what do you think ?


[Modified by SleepersOwn, 11:53 AM 1/13/2003]

 

As far as I know I'm the only one on North America trying this on a street car, or even a race car...

But for an H22a bottom end you'll rarely see many people approach 220whp, it's pretty surprising, which is why I point to engine geometry as a culprit, as well as maybe IM design etc...

 

2point6: didnt you mention in another article that the 229whp dyno was taken with a DC header and cheesy exhaust?? The DC header has a 1.9" collector doesnt it??What were the changes before and after the dyno at 229whp were taken?


Also what can I do with my H22A4 to change/improve the rod ratio?? What is the optimal ratio?? A little detail here would be great.


[Modified by Ritteri, 4:59 PM 1/13/2003]

 

I believe a 1.72 Rod/Stroke Ratio is the optimal most efficient ratio.

Just to give you some specs of the RS/R os some engines

H23A: 1.49
F22A: 1.49
H22A: 1.58
B18C: 1.58
F20B: 1.65
B16A: 1.74
F20C: 1.82

So there's a reason why the B16 and F20C motors put out so much power and spin so easily...that being said there is a lot more to engine design than just the rod/stroke. There is an excellent discussion on it here:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=301080

But if you look at what I'm doing...I'm basically building a bored/stroked B18 out of my H22a lol...from the opposite direction that should make even better numbers

 

SleepersOwn, Thank you for your nice comments.
In reply to your question about reliability, I would say that building up an engine is a good thing, but any time you do a "performance" modification such as: increasing compression, cams, bore, etc. you will sacrifice something else. It is a tradeoff from what the factory engineered into their product. Also, take driving style for example... I rag the heck out of my car so should I expect it to last as long as it would if "grandma" drove it? My guess is no. This is what I meant about not expecting my car to last. I was just being realistic with what I expect out of my build. Of course when the mileage gets high, I will just have to "freshen it up" and then it will be "new" again.
My current build is set up to handle a 100+ shot of nitrous. Maybe someday I will actually put it on the car...Who knows.

 

So what can I do on my car to get a 1.72 rod ratio???

 

Yes, My original dyno was done with a "stock" DC header. The collector was the original 1.9" and was not modified at that point. I did modify it about a month after the dyno took place and notice (what I call) a large increase. I never dynoed with that change in place. Since then I have added the SMSP header, Euro R manifold, and LINK engine management, the car was noticeably faster in the mid range, but again I haven't dynoed or tuned with this new set-up. I am fully expecting to run closer to 250WHP on pump gas (91 octane) as soon as I get the damn thing on a dyno. We'll see...

As far as the R/S ratio, I would say destroke....


[Modified by 2point6, 9:24 AM 1/13/2003]

 

Destroke? How?? This is new territory to me. WHat parts would I need etc? And what gains will destroking make for me in terms of reliability and whp/tq??

 

Satan SRV is the man for this.... Check his earlier comments in this thread.

 

That is all i needed to know, your car rocks ! ( sorry i had to say it again ) you and srv have some pretty impressive setups...INNOVATION RULES ! if i do plan on going with an h22 swap i'll follow pretty much the same plan as you guys did ( innovation rules but hey...proven systems are king lol ) i'll keep building the h22 until i run the b1 down and then swap..i'll probably add the nitrous to get better track times, i wont really need it for anything else...anyway again on your success you keep me posted on if you add the nitrous and hit the track, as well as your dyno numbers when you hit that too...and SATAN_SRV keep me posted on your project as well, if 2point6 is shooting for 250 you cant be too far behind ... GOOD WORK GUYS ! ! !


laterz

 

Read my destroking thread Ritteri, that's what I am doing. You gain reliability and more top end potential. But good luck finding an F20B crank and rods like I did. You'd likely have to go custom.

You can just wait and see my results, engine should be done in a couple months.

 

Satan, does the F20B crank and rods just drop in the H22A without any mods?!?! The F20B crank forged?Cant I just buy em new?? GIve me some more details?? Your using stock sized pistons right??Details please!

 

There's 4 pages in that thread...the same thread is also on PO.com titled "F20B the ultimate H22a" or something like that.

Yes it drops right in. But you could just buy it new but you would be very poor. It only exists in the Accord SIR-T from Japan and would be very difficult to get.

F20B crank is forged and so are the rods, the engine was introduced in 1999 I believe. here's my stuff:

 

Here is one of my 2.3 vtec setups. 235hp and 173lbs of torque.

 

Can't see..... Sounds good though.