stock b18c1 w/ headers & plug wires only
idles @ 2500 & takes a few minutes to come
down > i hate this > pls help w/ advise now

 

It's supposed to. It's called a Fast Idle Valve.

 

2500rpm? you positivly sure? 1500-1700rpm maybe but not 2500rpm...........

do you have the check engine light on? 2500rpm is not normal for a cold start.......

 

how long does it idle that high? mine idles high for about a minute. if i don't warm it up for a certain time, it bogs... any idea as to how that is sgt spade? haha

 

mine idles at 2k , then slowly goes down.

 

Don't worry too mugh about it, 2500 is ok for a cold start, and it can last that way for up to five minutes, depending on outside temperature, and how fast the engine heats up.

 

It's just the FITV... I personally don't like them so i normally bypass them when doing swaps... All you have to do is get an extra long piece of coolant line and run it right past it.. Off the manifold or thermostat housing run it straight to the IAC.... The open up the end of the FITV that faces towards the firewall and screw it down... I did this on my friends CRX/GSR last night because the damn screw vibrated itself out.. It's all good tho a little Honda Bond did the trick... Latez

 

What?

 

hahaha, what???? Sorry I probably worded it bad.... All I said was what I do... If the FITV is bad then just bypass it and screw it down... Once you do that you'll have no more cold idle... There's no point in it anyways besides to warm up your car faster... Peace

 

can you break that down barney style? i'm still in that teletubbie mode
appreciate it.

 

I bog too with the IACV bypassed. Just have to remember to rev before letting out the clutch

I loosened mine from the intake manifold (D16Y8) and placed a piece of aluminum can between it and the mani and tightened it back down. Bypassed

 

Mine doesn't idle high at all. In fact it idles really low until the engine's warmed up. When it isn't warmed up yet, everytime I step on the clutch when slowing down/stopping, the idle goes down to like 200 or so. Sometimes the engine even dies on me. Can anybody help on this? It's really getting annoying already. Someone told me it's because im running too rich (around 12 on the dynojet af meter) but how come when it's warmed up it idles perfect.

 

Running really really rich could cause your motor to die but there are a few things you must consider..... What motor (injectors, ECU, fuel controller) If it's a basically stock motor I don't see why it would be doing this... My friend's CRVTEC has the tendancy to die at the track when we start dumping a lot of gas with the VAFC... but he's also got injectors... I really doubt that it is your FITV since it is basically working backwards of how a normal one works... With cold coolant flowing through the valve should remain open but once the coolant heats up the valve will close.... Your problem is the exact opposite... Keep us posted...

 

I'm running a JDM B16 EK spec with major headworks and big valves. I haven't purchased cam gears yet, my mechanic says the reason I'm running rich is because the cam timing hasn't been advanced yet. I'm looking to get TODA gears within the next few weeks, I just hope what the mechanic said is true. Anybody care to expound on this?

BTW I don't have an AFC but my box is an Erick's Racing custom programmed unit. Thanks!

 

By major headwork you mean that your head is ported.... What do you mean by big valve.... Big valves alone aren't going to do anything.... You have high lift long duration cams??? This could be your problem too.. It's all in the tuning... Once you get everything dialed in a tuned you should be fine... Good Luck

 

Major headworks - porting, polishing, the usual stuff, but one stage away from being race spec. I have bigger valves, but running the stock cams. Most probably my mechanic is right, better get those cam gears soon. Thanks!