I installed a MSD 6BTM using the stock coil the other day and it idled fine for about 2 minutes and then died suddenly, as if the key was turned off. I came to the conclusion (with help from some peeps in the FI forum) that it was the ignitor/ICM/excitor/whatever but, when I went to go pick up a new one from a honda master technician around here, I had him test the old one and it came up to be fine? BUT, when I put it back in it still fails the tests in my (crappy) haynes manual. At key ON, coil disconnected it should have battery voltage at 2 of the terminals, but only has it at one. Does this mean that it is shot, or is there something else wrong? The coil passes both tests of resistance, so I doubt it's that. I took off the MSD and have been playing with it, stock, but still no dice. If someone has an idea, it would really help me out, as my only car has been dead for two days now
Is it possible that it just killed the ICM for no good reason, just because it was working over-time, since I don't think I installed anything improperly.


[Modified by ion_four, 2:51 AM 10/25/2002]

 

Hey, I've the probelm probably similar as you. I'm using MSD 6A. In my case, hitting hard on the accelerator to 6K, the RPM goes dead but releasing the accelerator it goes back to normal. I've tried couple of suggestion from previous thread like replacing the ignitor/new coil but the damn probelm still won't go away.

 

i installed two MSD SCI's last week (the import-specific ones) and we haven't had a problem yet. I also had an MSD 6A on my S10 and it was the greatest mod evAr. +4mpg much?

 

I'm not sure if that's the same problem, but it's possible. My car will not start at all, even without the msd installed. I had the ignitor tested by a honda technician, but he says it's good, though when I test it in the car, there is only battery voltage on one terminal (black/yellow) and about 9.5 volts (or so) on the yellow/green wire. There should be battery voltage on the white/blue wire with keyON...can someone verify this with a working car? I would owe you my left ********...well, maybe not I don't want to shell out $90 for no reason...

 

ttt

can anyone give me any pointers on how to figure out what's up? how to prevent it?
thanks...

 

I had the same type of problem with my car about a month ago. 100 mi from home and getting on the Interstate, at about 65mph the engien just stops. I thought my timing belt had slipped and I was way off, but after playing with it it ran like a 2-stroke and wouldn't rev past 2500rpm. Me and my buddy figured that timing was not it and pulled the distributer cap off to check that side. When I did I noticed that the retaining screw that holds the rotor to the rest of the distributer is off. The cam was turning but only one cylinder was firing. Propaply not your problem but you never know.

P.S. after we messed with the timing blindly, somehow I gained 10 hp on the G-Tech. Happy ending

 

Yeah, a loose rotor certainly isn't my prob...I've taken it on and of a few times...it does wiggle about 1-2mm in either direction when screwed on, but that shouldn't matter...the car doesn't run at all...could it be anything else other than the coil/ignitor? The coil seems fine, since the resistances are there...I'm not sure I can test the coil (hooking it up to the battery and tryin to get a spark to ground seems like a bad idea

 

okay...call me retarded...I replaced the ignitor and low and behold...nothing happened. Car still won't start. However, I checked the "ignition signal input" wire or whatever and when my buddy was cranking the engine there was no voltage (actually 0.2v) coming from it...I assume it's not a ground circuit? So, this might be my problem, but what the hell does it mean? How do I fix it...all the normal lights (oil/battery/check engine) come on momentarily as I try to start the engine, so I thought that meant the switch wasn't bad? is the wire just shot maybe?

day four without car...grr...

::edit::
Alright, so I checked two pins on the ECU (A20, A21; both Red Wires with green stripe) and as the car was being turned over there was only an output of about 0.8v... These two wires come together and eventually become the yellow (w/green stripe) wire that is the Ignition Input Signal for the ICM... I would think the signal should be much higher voltage than this (5-12v?).
I also checked fuse 15 under the dash, which is associated with the ICM power...


[Modified by ion_four, 2:29 AM 10/26/2002]