can running too rich burn oil???????
i am running really rich right now. about 40mpg less per tank rich. i am also noticing that i am burning a lot of oil. i have not down a compression test, but the car still performs fine. the smoke is white and my coolant levels are normal. anyone have any idea what can make me burn that much oil and still have the car run fine????
can running too rich burn oil???????
yes
yes
I know when the motor runs hot it causes everything to expand therefor less sealant between the rings and the walls but how does burning rich cause more oil consumsion?
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well my whole problem started from an over rev..everything was ok before.. after replacing all my valves i noticesd that black soot was devoloping all over my rear bumper.. so i figured that my rings where [freak]ed up also . so i had a complete rebuild done by a guy with a real good reputation..anyways i got it all back together and it runs strong but the black soot is still happeneing??? please help!!!
i am having the exact same problem. just wondering how to go about fixing this issue.
also wondering how to make the motor run better i am running really rich i am getting about 300KM (NOT MILES BUT KM) for a full tank of 94 octane. which is extremly crappy seeing as how i shift no higher than 4k.
would tunning solve the running rich part or is something wrong with the motor?
also wondering how to make the motor run better i am running really rich i am getting about 300KM (NOT MILES BUT KM) for a full tank of 94 octane. which is extremly crappy seeing as how i shift no higher than 4k.
would tunning solve the running rich part or is something wrong with the motor?
Do a compression test- full leakdown, and post the results.
*Yes I read your post.
Who replaced the valves?(Same as the bottom end?) Did they put new valve seals on?
What are your mods?
Have you been tuned?
I hope you haven't thrown money away. In the long run at least you have some fresh parts to your motor.
i did a compression test and it dialed in 140 (piston 1 ) 140 (piston 2) 160 (piston 3) and piston 4 didnt hold the compression cuz the needle would rise and drop immediately.
i didnt do a leak down test yet.
the complete bottom end was re-done.
basically the bottom end got taken to every single part possible the block was sent out to get the walls polished and honed then new rings were put on the pistons the connecting rods were resurfaced to make sure they are a perfect circle, new bearings, the mains, new crankshaft was put and all and every seal, gasket, etc was replaced with brand new oem ones, the head was shaved 7 thou so it can mate with the bottom end flush new headgasket was put on and new valve cover gasket with o rings for the plugs aswell.
i didnt tune the motor yet. the only mods i have on the motor are arc intake, buddy club cam gears, dc ss header, stock b pipe with cat and o2 sensor and a spoon axel back. the motor is running on a p28 chipped ecu with stock program.
i didnt do a leak down test yet.
the complete bottom end was re-done.
basically the bottom end got taken to every single part possible the block was sent out to get the walls polished and honed then new rings were put on the pistons the connecting rods were resurfaced to make sure they are a perfect circle, new bearings, the mains, new crankshaft was put and all and every seal, gasket, etc was replaced with brand new oem ones, the head was shaved 7 thou so it can mate with the bottom end flush new headgasket was put on and new valve cover gasket with o rings for the plugs aswell.
i didnt tune the motor yet. the only mods i have on the motor are arc intake, buddy club cam gears, dc ss header, stock b pipe with cat and o2 sensor and a spoon axel back. the motor is running on a p28 chipped ecu with stock program.
My R has the same problem. Black stuff on the back bumper. It was running way to cold so i put a new thermostat. That increased gas millage to around 270-280 miles on a full tank. Engine was rebuilt and has 2500 miles on it sense. Runs great just annoyed by the black on the bumper. Can't figure it out.
Arrgghh you guys have to do a injector balance test and test the fuel pressure regulator. Black soot is fuel. A quote from a ASE study guide "Many people make the mistake of believing black soot is oil, it is not; black soot if unburnt fuel, do not let this trick you during testing".Test the regulator and injectors and even O2 sensor voltages, observe coolant temp as well.You are going to need a scanner either a snap on or otc will work.Fuel also dilutes oil causing it to burn
Yeah. I know its not oil. Testing the regulator and injectors and even O2 sensor voltages, observe coolant temp. One of these should be the culprit? How harmful if at all is it to my engine? Appreciate the help.
These could all be the culprits., all these things can lead to the car staying in open loop and or to much fuel (bad fpr or injector). start a list and do them one by one with a helms manual and make sure everything is within spec.It also varies from case to case how harmful it could be. Make the list and diag it correctly and save yourself a headache and money
even a stock car will do it!!!
jesus H, when will people learn that a stock R overfuels and kicks **** out the exhaust, in fact any high performance car will kick visible **** out the back at high rpms, then the vortex at the back of the car just sucks it round so it sticks to the back.
learn to deal with it!
jesus H, when will people learn that a stock R overfuels and kicks **** out the exhaust, in fact any high performance car will kick visible **** out the back at high rpms, then the vortex at the back of the car just sucks it round so it sticks to the back.
learn to deal with it!
Some overly wise individual once said... "don't use your bumper as a tuning indicator." Not sure if it applies here. BTW (OP)... running overly rich can certainly damage your rings and thus wash the cylinder.
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Blazin Si
All Motor / Naturally Aspirated
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Jun 26, 2005 08:59 AM




