thehatchninja

To my understanding a H22 weighs about 80 lbs more than a B18C. Supposedly this affects the handling of the car a lot, although i have heard otherwise. I was just wondering what can be done to offset the weight difference. I was thinking a good carbon fiber hood (Benen Ind.) weighs 9 lbs, 21 lbs less than stock. Also the Battery in the trunk would save about 15-20lbs. Are there any other ways to save weight.....lighter suspension components? anything else?

Thanks

Slopoke

The h22 handling issue has been discussed ALOT.
You should do a search.

Here is one link I found:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=183552

Jason kiDD

The car will handle fine once you get the proper struts/springs suspension setup..

thehatchninja

i know all that.....i've read all about the handling issues......i know the h22 will handle fine, but supposedly because of it's weight it will still not handle as well as a civic with a B18, So with the weight the same, and the H22 making a lot more power, It could be an all around competitor, at the dragstrip, and at the auto-x. I plan on building an H22 civic, but i want to auto-x it, i guess jus cause everyone says it cant be done

uglyhybridcrx

then i guess your mind is made up then, why ask what you already know?

hondaZvic

tru.. do it

H22ek4

plus you have take the ac and ps pump out and you save about 30 pounds already, and can also get the carbon fiber hood and relocate the battery and that's pretty close to 80 pounds.

CRX7

I really don't see how 80 pounds makes that much of a difference. If you've noticed the CRX is already seriously nose heavy, meaning it's already unbalanced. On the track I've gotten used to this, I don't see how it would make that much of a difference. And yes, you would have to put in some higher spring rates up front and at least try to lighten the front by other means.

vtecmissle

lighter header, single runner intake manifold, aluminum underdrive pulleys, lightweight battery, remove rebar from front bumper(warning) put a stereo in the trunk as low as possible that will equalize the weight.

BudaKai

It'd be the same as a B18 witha turbo and A/C.

Jonathan_ED3

upon weighing, the h22 weighs about 70lbs more than a B series...

Take off the P/S, aftermarket header, aluminum valvecover, CF hood, lightened flywheel, aftermarket clutch/pp, aluminum radiator and a battery relocation the trunk has more than made up the difference

poison

man man man......to all those who think h22 is just amongst the heaviest and will kill performance.....can't wait to see where I sit in auto-x next season

I am currently on tokico blues (yes cheapo tokico blues) and civic ground controls, and my car handles awesome with an h22 up front.

With 16x7 mugen mf8's, and Tein SS suspension, we'll see where we sit compared to b series eg's, hell I'll compete against ITR's and see where I sit

only numbers will speak of themselves...


[Modified by poison, 1:26 AM 10/21/2002]

B18bTurboHB

I am in the same boat as you and want an auto-x 94 Civic Si hb H22a powered... good luck on your project................H22a has so much more potential.....do what the voices in your head tell you.....

B18C5-EH2

Making way more power than what exactly?

I drove an H22A coupe again for the second time and I think it plowed through turns - meaning it wanted to go straight. This one had Tokico Illuminas and Skunk2 coil-overs on Kuhmo 712 ZR rated 15'' tires. It still felt very nose heavy as I took a 90 degree turn at an intersection at about 15mph whereas I can probably take that turn at 30mph or so in my B-Series hatch.

Yes the low-end torque is neato and it has a different type of pull from my own car, but it's just not my cup of tea.

Two things would keep me from the H-Series stuff:

1. Mount kit
2. Shifter

I absolutely hate the cable shifter. It feels like rowing a boat to me and the shifts cannot be performed nearly as quick as with the shifter rod b-Series and D-Series stuff. Plus the cables break - coupe I drove had them break.

I'm not hating on the H stuff but I am also entitled to state my opinion from experience as well. I'm not just spewing out bullshit that's just pulled out of my ***. I've driven an H-powered Civic and while the low and mid was really nice, the handling leaves a lot to be desired.

Jason kiDD

Tokico blues arent the best struts to have. And if the coupe didnt have a rear sway bar then you will definately feel a lot of understeer. I will not lie to anyone, even with the setup that I have I can still feel a slight understeer when compared to other cars that I have driven but hopefully I can equal that out once I finally put on my upper strut bar, which will help keep the car flatter on the turns..

Hopefully soon I will have some times and **** to post up for everyone.

My 2 cents..

B18C5-EH2

I said Tokico Illuminas, not the ultra-shitty non-adjustable blues.

Jason kiDD

too-shey

heeh

poison

I hear this

I make 30 mph turns all over the place staying in 4th gear, with NO problem cornering.

I have front, rear upper strut bar, rear lower tie bar, and the stock sway bars up front and back on shitty Tokico Blues and Civic Ground Controls, and the car handles VERY well.

I know a B series will handle better for obvious reasons of weight. A lot of the reason I did an H swap was because I love the H22 for power potential, and I like proving people wrong.

I just can't wait to take it to the track and the auto-x event and post times.

Of course, if you don't have the right items (rear sway bar, and especially upper front tower bar), it'll handle like ****.

From me personally and my car, however, as well as all of my friends who have driven it....people who say have a ton of understeer and handling like **** is basically full of it, although i do not question their experiences. They just happen to drive a bone stock civic suspension and expect to make a corner at 40 mph with an H up front -- not gonna happen.

The issue on BRAKING as well. Those who throw an H motor into a Civic hatch/coupe with tiny *** brakes (with exception to the Si and the EX), wonder why their braking is so shitty because they have TINY brakes.

For my experience, I have noticed very little slack on braking (considering i have an EX), but I believe the problem i have due to that braking is because my pads are shitty and my braking was the same with the D series.

Just stating my case and my point of view.

I agree with you, Tom on alot of issues, but some of them I think are exaggerated alot and I think the experience you were getting is alot of bad luck, because if I took you for a ride or let you drive, you'd have different opinions....trust me on that

Jonathan_ED3

How in the world do you break a shifter cable? Seriously?

MPower332TI

my friend broke a shifter cable in his lude...very possible...all it is is steel braided line....it can get against the exhaust or something hot and just ware out...

Trickturn

If you're worried about weight...

take out the 2 balancer shafts & assemblies. Plug up the holes & lose about 40 lbs

Pete

Wide Open Throttle

read in a magazine that this is possible, but easier to disconnect them & leave them in. im a semi-competent mechanic. there doesn't seem to be much truth to this. penny for your thoughts?

Jonathan_ED3

okay..well this makes sense, but you cannot BREAK the cable.

I guess I'm too picky with wording...

It would be more correct to say that it got frayed and wore out. But it didn't 'break' persay. Steel braided line is very strong. Heck, it holds up the Golden Gate Bridge

poison

this was exactly what I'm wondering....

that's why you make it so it doesn't TOUCH any of that.

believe it or not, my cables don't even come close to touching my exhaust and don't move at all.

tburyboost

I am very interested in cramming this H22 motor in to a civic hatch, where can I find useful info on how to do it? I have the front clip of a 94 'lude and I am still looking for a relatively inexpensive EG6. Let me know, I am tired of all my friends thinking the B16 & B18 are the only answer to more power in those cars. all the way with JDM.