Head work for B18b...
OK I have a couple of questions here. First let me explain my goal with this project. I want to pick up another head for my integra B18b which is currently running a AEM CAI, DC 4-2-1, and Greddy EVO catback. This 2nd Head will be used initially for learning about the top end of my block, as I have never done any internal work yet. Eventually my plans for the head would be to beef it up and swap it onto my B18b block. I really am not too comfortable swapping a vtec head onto my block because reliability is an issue and I don't feel I have the expertise or financing to do what that is going to take. My questions are this:
1. Is there any difference between a B18a head and a B18b head? I have heard there are slight differences with the cam design (which would account for the small difference in HP between the two blocks). Is this true? Will it change the clearance with my valves and piston heads? Should I just make it easy on myself and look for a B18b head?. If there is differences ONLY in the cam design no big deal. Eventually I want to put crower 403's in it.
2. Can someone clue me in on what benefits a valve job gives you (3 angle 4 angle whatever. How is this different that a P&P on the head? Also I have heard that by P&Ping the head I run the risk of not passing smog. Anyone heard of this or have it done themselfs??
3. If I put the 403's in and get some cam gears (any type I should steer away from?) I whould probably get it tuned yes? would a variable air fuel control be in the works???? what other mods would you recommend to make this set up run as smooth as possible.
Thanks for your help guys/girls. This will be my first work with internals so any imput you have is much appreciated. I really dont want to f
up my baby.
1. Is there any difference between a B18a head and a B18b head? I have heard there are slight differences with the cam design (which would account for the small difference in HP between the two blocks). Is this true? Will it change the clearance with my valves and piston heads? Should I just make it easy on myself and look for a B18b head?. If there is differences ONLY in the cam design no big deal. Eventually I want to put crower 403's in it.
2. Can someone clue me in on what benefits a valve job gives you (3 angle 4 angle whatever. How is this different that a P&P on the head? Also I have heard that by P&Ping the head I run the risk of not passing smog. Anyone heard of this or have it done themselfs??
3. If I put the 403's in and get some cam gears (any type I should steer away from?) I whould probably get it tuned yes? would a variable air fuel control be in the works???? what other mods would you recommend to make this set up run as smooth as possible.
Thanks for your help guys/girls. This will be my first work with internals so any imput you have is much appreciated. I really dont want to f
up my baby.
the B18A and B18B heads are identical.........you should have absolutly no problems exchanging the heads at all.......
as a matter of fact i did the same thing 2 years ago......
if your having the head ported (which is a really good idea) you WILL have the valves/valve seats cut to 3 new fresh angles........it will help seal the valve to the valve seat to give you a good tight seal in the cylinders. most shops that port head always includes a valve job because part of the porting process modifies the valve seat a little so to ensure a proper seal they cut new angles on them. and it's usually included in the price of the porting.
there is no way you can properly port your own cylinderhead without ruining it. it takes lots of skill and percision to do that if you mess it up the head can be garbage.......and there will be no problems passing smog with a ported head........
as for cam gears...........if your getting crower cams why not get their cam gears as well.......very nice design with ARP lockking adjusting bolts.......it's good stuff.......
a Apexi S-AFC would be a good idea to have for tuning...........and also for smog and fuel economy after the cam install.
good luck!
as a matter of fact i did the same thing 2 years ago......if your having the head ported (which is a really good idea) you WILL have the valves/valve seats cut to 3 new fresh angles........it will help seal the valve to the valve seat to give you a good tight seal in the cylinders. most shops that port head always includes a valve job because part of the porting process modifies the valve seat a little so to ensure a proper seal they cut new angles on them. and it's usually included in the price of the porting.
there is no way you can properly port your own cylinderhead without ruining it. it takes lots of skill and percision to do that if you mess it up the head can be garbage.......and there will be no problems passing smog with a ported head........
as for cam gears...........if your getting crower cams why not get their cam gears as well.......very nice design with ARP lockking adjusting bolts.......it's good stuff.......
a Apexi S-AFC would be a good idea to have for tuning...........and also for smog and fuel economy after the cam install.
good luck!
a Apexi S-AFC would be a good idea to have for tuning...........and also for smog and fuel economy after the cam install.
Oh by the Way I do live in california... is all this smog legal???
thanks for your help
[Modified by 97SactoLS, 9:54 PM 9/29/2002]
[Modified by 97SactoLS, 9:56 PM 9/29/2002]
i'll sell you a b18b head off a 96 integra RS `85k on it. I spun a rod bearing on block but the head's fine. I'd just clean it out tho to just incase there are any metal shavings from the block in it, no biggie tho. I imagine if your building the head you'd do that anyways. I don't even know how much its worth, i donno about a price tho.. 100 plus shipping sound fair?
Valve angles also allow speed matching of the air flowing past the valves either into the cylinder (intake) or out of the cylinder (exhaust) like non-VTEC said, they are used for a good seal between the vlave and the head. But furthermore, they allow speed matching of all the air, this inturn gives the port the ability to accecpt more air on the exhaust side and distribute air more evenly on the intake side.
Just thought I'd throw that in.
Just thought I'd throw that in.
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IF you decide to port and polish I suggest having the head flowed to match the cam. Yes you can port a head any way you loke, but matching flow charistics to cam profiles are crucial to getting most out of a NA setup.
As for fuel controlling devices: The cheapest way out id having a chip burned for your application, but there is now way to fine tune it for smog and power. Everyone else is using the FPR to increase fuel flow cheaply. It works but only so much. The AFC is the cheapest alternative (that know of) that allows tuning.
As for fuel controlling devices: The cheapest way out id having a chip burned for your application, but there is now way to fine tune it for smog and power. Everyone else is using the FPR to increase fuel flow cheaply. It works but only so much. The AFC is the cheapest alternative (that know of) that allows tuning.
if your having the head ported (which is a really good idea) you WILL have the valves/valve seats cut to 3 new fresh angles........it will help seal the valve to the valve seat to give you a good tight seal in the cylinders. most shops that port head always includes a valve job because part of the porting process modifies the valve seat a little so to ensure a proper seal they cut new angles on them. and it's usually included in the price of the porting.
Actually, the porting of a head does not modify the valve seat at all, not even close to it. What Porting does change is the angle of incidence prior to the valve seat. An angle job on the valve seat is not necessary when porting, and IMO, is not worth it with the stock valve diameter. But it does allow a bit more mixture in per cycle. I would typically recommend going with a 1mm over valve when doing a valve job... but it's not necessary.... it's just since you're there, might as well ?!
But port work only affects the ports and runners, it would be much more worth your while using the money to match port your I/M than use it on a valve job w/ stock valves.
Flow benching the head (which I think was mentioned) will give you actual cfm #'s for the head, but it a waste of money unless you are otherwise putting out a large chunk of power... flowing costs around $2K for all ports and I/M !!!
PS, I have a B18A head and I/M for sale $150 + 1/2 shipping
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