okay well...i am wondering a few things before i attempt to convert my car to Obd 1..firs thing how would i check engine codes....2....Would i Be able to clock faster than mid 15s on I/h/e...3.......the 8 pin connector that the swap requires has 8 yellow/black wires? and all i have to do is connect the red/blk ones that go to my injector resistor box to one of those wires...and then another wire from the 4 wires o2 sensor goes to another wire leaving me with 3 un used wires for the 8 wire connector? correct?

 

IM Blown90Hatch, he's the OBD1 guru around here

edit: sorry, i forgot trial users can't IM... I'll try to get him to look at this for you.


[Modified by thumpu77, 10:18 AM 8/6/2002]

 

Checking engine codes:

You have to jump the timing service connector that should be located either on the passenger side footwell or on the engine bay driver's side midway down the fender. This connector is usually covered by a yellow rubber cover.

Clocking faster than mid 15's:

That will depend on many things. I've seen people do from 15.9 to 15.0 using a d16z6 with the obd1 conversion. It depends on not just the motor and ecu but driving skills, tires, traction, etc....e.g. you'll have to go to the track and find out

8 wire plug:

Yes, on obd1 cars that plug is connected to a wire that goes to each one of the injectors so that's what you need to do on yours. Also, one wire from the o2 heater sensor goes to this plug. This will leave you with 3 unused wires on the 8 wire plug but that is no biggie since that plug is just a metal clip that connects all these wires together.......basically you can do without that plug if you were to connect all the mentioned above wires together.

Didn't I sell you one of my conversion harnesses?? Did I not answer these questions already?

good luck,
L.

 

If you go by my wiring guide, codes can be checked by shorting the timing adjustment connector. If you use someone else's guides or buy a pre-made adaptor, this can vary. Your best bet is to ask the person who either made the guide or the harness. As for ETs, this depends on alot of things. Power is just one factor in the complete equation. Regardless, you should definitely run better than you did with the PM6 and RPM activated switch. But whether or not you can run better than mid-15's, I can't say.

The 8-wire connector can be dealt with in any of a nunebr of ways. I personally don't like to keep the red/black wires. I find it MUCH easier to just use the complete injector 'subharness' from the 1992-1995 harness from the injector plugs to the yellow/black wires and the pins for the 8-wire connector. This cuts down on the required soldering. As for using the pins on the 8-wire connector, you can use as many or as few as you wish.

 

Hey storminmatt, I just got done doing an obd1 conversion on my wagon using your list. got it all worked out but have a code 41. gotta buy a good o2 I guess. thanks alot for the wiring diagram.