I purchased a set of Eagles but have read they are the heaviest of the forged aftermarket rods and don't always spec out accurately.

What do you guys suggest as a better rod for an all-out LSVTEC build?

My almost finished project:

B18b block GE sleeved and bored to 84.5mm
Endyn crank girdle with AEBS main studs
Balanced, chamfered, polished crank
ATI crank damper
Eagle rods with ARP bolts
CP 12.5:1 84.5mm pistons
Alaniz Competition VTEC head with Pro Chambers
Skunk2 Pro Springs, Retainers & Cam Gears
Supertech Flat BNC Valves
DH Racing tapered 65-70mm throttle body
Edelbrock Performer X intake port matched to throttle
BPI CAI stack on 3" piping
SMSP B19 Header
2.5" custom mandrel piping into Magnaflow resonator and Vibrant muffler
RC 370cc injectors
Hondata s300
Skunk2 Pro 2's
Del Sol hydro tranny with 4.78 final & ITR LSD
Competition Stage 4 Strip Series Clutch Kit
Meziere Electric Water Pump

 

i have a very very similiar build. I used the eagle rods with cp pistons on the same bore and worked great i would stick with what you have and good luck should make 230 atleast.

 

Eagle rods are fine for that build. Just have the machine shop check to make sure they are all within weight for the set . .

 

Carrillo ProA's are approx. 90-100 grams lighter, and more consistant, have better bolts.

 

i heard aluminum rods are pretty good for all-motor applications.

 

I heard they were not.

 

I hear a cat's meow off in the distance.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Carrillo ProA's are approx. 90-100 grams lighter, and more consistant, have better bolts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Absolutely. This is one the best off the shelf parts available.

 

For all motor applications the cunnningham ultra lite and the crower maxi lite also are very light with excellent strength (90-100 grams lighter) and dimentional consistancy. the eagle rod is basically a heavy crudely built rod for people that demand the lowest price. because most people cant afford to properly modify their engines low priced low quality rods have become the favorite for the inexperienced and ignorant builder.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I heard they were not.</TD></TR></TABLE>care to explain why?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Professor15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">care to explain why? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Aluminum lacks an endurance limit and is pretty sensitive to heat, low stiffness, etc.

 

Not to be an ***, but on what planet is this the "ultimate" ls/vtec?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Aluminum lacks an endurance limit and is pretty sensitive to heat, low stiffness, etc. </TD></TR></TABLE> well i was under the impression that an "all-out ls-vtec" was not going to be built for reliability. and as far as the stiffness, i heard that the stretching really isnt that big of a problem because of how minimal it is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not to be an ***, but on what planet is this the "ultimate" ls/vtec?</TD></TR></TABLE> earth my friend....planet earth.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Professor15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> well i was under the impression that an "all-out ls-vtec" was not going to be built for reliability. and as far as the stiffness, i heard that the stretching really isnt that big of a problem because of how minimal it is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know about what you hear, but one mis-shift and even if the rod survives you had better rebuild the engine because it won't make another trip down the 1/4 mile. Also, if you don't have the numbers calculated right you won't last an entire event or even a few passes. Aluminum is very fragile IMO and the pay-off is minimal compared to some of the steel alloys or MMC materials.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not to be an ***, but on what planet is this the "ultimate" ls/vtec?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Planet Hyperbole.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not to be an ***, but on what planet is this the "ultimate" ls/vtec?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you look at the parts, the majority are brand name & proven. Of corse "ultimate" is a personal opinion as I have not spared expense in selecting the parts for my build. The rods are my only issue but the bottom end is built already and I don't know if it's worth the time, money and hassle to remove the eagles and replace them...

There are several heavy hitters here responding with alternates (DonF, Omniman) - damn it should I bite the bullet and replace them?

 

Just curious, what flywheel are you gonna run?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 7rrivera7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

- damn it should I bite the bullet and replace them?</TD></TR></TABLE>

if your allowing me to make the decision for you i would say yes. But ultimately its your decision.




Modified by omniman at 3:20 PM 8/30/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ruffrhyder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just curious, what flywheel are you gonna run? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have an ACT Pro-lite & Street-lite and I'm leaning towards the Pro-lite which is about half the weight of OEM

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omniman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

if your allowing me to make the decision for you i would say yes. But ultimately its your decision. </TD></TR></TABLE>

As far as I'm concerned, your decision is the only one that counts

I've done a ton of research for this project (ultimate) and selected each of my parts carefully so I don't mind letting Omniman "keep me on track". Funny I never gave the rod selection a second thought until I read on here recently that the Eagles don't spec out consistently.

...now which to choose among Cunningham, Crower and Carillo's - time for more research.

Hey what a coincidence that each company name starts with the letter 'C'

 

Alot of good stuff starts with C.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 7rrivera7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've done a ton of research for this project (ultimate) and selected each of my parts carefully so I don't mind letting Omniman "keep me on track". Funny I never gave the rod selection a second thought until I read on here recently that the Eagles don't spec out consistently.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Looks like you need to do your research before you purchase parts. I'm surprised you would go and spend this much time and money on those other quality parts, then just go for some of the cheapest rods out on the market.

I was in the same boat as yourself, looking rods, but luckily I discovered that eagle rods were notorious for being out of spec and very heavy for NA builds before I purchased them.

Look into the Carillo A's or Crower Maxi-lites, either will be about $700

 

I wanted to share this with you guys.

A while back i bought a 95mm eagle crank. I bought it for a CRV engine i was going to build. My parents happen to own a 2000 Honda CRV and the mileage is getting up there. So i figured i would put a motor together and have it waiting incase anything went wrong with theirs. After i purchased the crank i had taken it to castillos to get balanced and check for straightness and any other things that might be wrong with it. I spent about 550 for the crank new. Castillos informed me of several problems that needed to be addressed in order to use this crank.

1. the center of the main journals was off about .003 inch making it impossible to use standard OEM bearings. The crank had to be turned down .010 in order to get all the main journals straight with each other. it was almost like having 2 cranks in 1.
2. the radius on the rod journals was so big that it hit the edge of the bearing when you attemted to put the rods on. Basically it would just searve as a crank clamp.

3. the thrust washer clearance was too big, so we had to weld on the surface and build it up then remachine it to the correct width.

After all was said and done i had another 350 into the crank plus 2 trips to castillos at 65 miles each way.

To be fair im sure not every eagle crank and rod has problems, no manufacturer of any product is defect free 100% of the time.

Personally i like a responsive engine and reducing weight in the rods and pistons helps noticably.

Planning and budget is the key to any successful build.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alot of good stuff starts with C.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was going to post this before but thought it was corny but since you mentioned it...

Three premium rods starting with the letter 'C'

One premium head porter: CCCylinder Heads