hey guys, im bout to purchase my first ever swap from him and i was wonderin what u guys have to say about ihs company.

 

mods, you really need to make a sticky post for all b series swap questions

to awnser your question

hmo is great and they will take good care of you.

 

in the hyrbid section there is post "Where did you get your Motor, Overall experience" Its very informative.

 

contrary to popular opion, before you do a swap make sure you research EVERY last detail of it. you will hate yourself if you don't and end up spending more money than planned.

Hondamotorsonline should be able to hook you up with a COMPLETE package with everything from hasport linkages and engine mounts to 90-91 teg rear mounting bracket. If you're planning on having lots of fun with the motor take the head to a headshop and have the valve guide tolerences checked because I've heared a lot of motors from HMO have guides that are out of specs.. like mine were.

remember :
cap/rotor
plugs
plug wires,
timing belt
alternator belt
wiring harness (hasport if you have the cash)
water pump
NEW GASKETS! what the hell, why not be smart, the engine is apart anyway.
oil
coolant
MTF
90-91 teg throttle cable
pin for linkages
and other misc. goodies like vacuum lines from napa or a/c belt from napa.
make sure to read ALL the instructions like bangin' room for the altenator and bending down the front mount on front crossmember and bending down the lip on the rear x-member below the rear motor mount.

if you have any questions let me know.. post them here. This thread could be very informative for people doing b series in 88-91 crx/hatches.

 

HMO is ok. My valve guides were also out. A few other things winded up costing extra money also.


Try somewhere else. I heard 161822 is good, or JDMshit.com

Monty

 

valve guides were out???? what kinda expense am i lookin at if they are? and labor time?

 

I wouldnt buy from JDMshit.com cause there a bad buisness if you dont believe me then just look at the name for your selff...........

 

The headshop I took my head too sort of Fvcked me but they did some decent work. I had them put in new valve guides and do a three way valve job. They didn't do any port or polishing becuase I didn't feel I needed it. but for they new valve guides installed and the valve job it was 350$ Now do you understand what people mean when they say there are hidden expenses when doing a swap?!!!!

I didn't have the shop put it all back together although. I put the valve seals and springs and retainers and cams on myself because I trust myself. Word of caution though, puting on valve seals is a BITCH! I had to make my own little tool to get them on right.. I ruined about 6 and had to go to 3 different honda dealerships to find all the right seals.

Oh yea.. since you have the head apart you might as well get some CTR/ITR cams and springs and get your ECU chipped or a VAFC

Other than the valve guides NOTHING was broken or damaged with the motor I got from HMO. The oil pan had some dents but they pounded out nicely.


[Modified by rice_classic, 9:24 PM 7/19/2002]

 

If you knew Newman you would! The guy is cool. The name is just a little "dry" humor. For instance he had an LS / VTEC around 200 horse, and his license plate said "SLOWCRX"

He wasnt selling motors when i bought mine, or I would have went there!

hth,

Monty

 

I thought that was funny . A headshop is where you go to by bingers, pipes,and flavored tobacco around here.

 

alright so how can i diag these valve seals? does the head have to be removed to see them? or what? BTW thinx for your reply on teh price. i really wasnt planning on buying any cams, as the pice to get this thing up and running is probably gonna be more than enough for me to have to wrry about ( mnot to mention buying a motor stand/ jackstands) and other misc stuff ive got to get.. (my exhaust is sitting on the ground, the hangers rusted off) and i need new tires and probably new brake stuff too.

 

I got my swap from HMO and it was a good. Nothing wrong with it and great compression. The motor is very clean and strong. You can't expect a perfect motor but with HMO you can definitely get a close one.

 

i understand this, and was expecing to replace most fo the seals (front&rear/oil pan,cam perhaps, and valve cover) but i wasnt expecting to have to d any internal work. :/ oh well, perhaps i should just pop it in and if i got probs ill just pull it again

 

to diagnose the valve guides you will need a workshop manual and you will need to remove the head and remove the springs, retainers and valve seals. You mights just want to take it to a headshop if yur not spec savvy.

you might want to consider buying this. http://www.inlinefour.com/topgaskit.html get the set for the del sol vtec. You also might want to consider an oil pan gasket. and the integra upper and lower radiator hoses.

last but not least. You should not need an engine stand or a cherry picker. When you go to take you engine out and put the new one in it is MUCH easier to do it from the botton, like hasport suggests. it's ok to rest the engine on the oil pan but just find a thick piece of cardboard to rest the engine on while you work on it.

When you drop the old engine just drop it onto a large carboard mat and the slide out from under the car through the wheel well. To the get the car up high enough and get the other engine UP I used 2 jack stands, 2 jacks and some wooden blocks.


[Modified by rice_classic, 7:58 PM 7/20/2002]

 

i dont think im going to have the room under the car to do it, as im doing this in my garage....

 

I hope your garage doesn't have a really small roof.. cause I did it in my garage too. I did borrow some tools though like a press and spring compressors and what not because I had some other projects but yes.. this can all be done in a very small garage. You don't have to lift up the back end just the front..

Engine removal: have it ready to drop out of the car except for unbolting the mounts. the car is jacked up with the jack on the front X-member. put a piece of carboard under the car then let the front end all the way down to the bottom of the jack travel (basically sitting on the floor). See how far the oil pan and tranny is from the carboard then lift up the car a bit to put a couple blocks of wood where the oil pan would go then let it down again so the pan is touching the blocks then undo the bolts on the mounts. once the motor/tranny are stable then lift the car up and slide the motor out the side of the wheel well. If the jack won't take the car up high enough then you need a bigger jack or put a couple of blocks of wood on the jack between the jack and the x-member.

Installation of new engine: opposite of removal! Trust me, most crx motor swaps are done through the bottom cus it's easier.. ask hasport. It'll save you time and headache and perhaps money. But when it comes to something like this have someone help you a friend or a father perhaps.

 

I need to start taking notes on all this!!! I wanna do a swap on my rex, and I just found out a cousin of a cousin(don't ask) is wanting to do this as well on an EG Civic...haven't talked to him yet, but he wants me to help him...

 

well, I'll give you all the help I can except actually doing the work for you!

If you want all the links I used for Info and purchasing I'd be happy to help.

Infact, here's a few links.

For purchasing:
Engines and oem parts new and used:
http://www.hondamotorsonline.com/
http://www.nippon-motors.com/
http://www.haprecycling.com/index.html
http://www.performancemotorcars.com/ <--best one for oem parts!!! Everything from rotors pads, master cylinders, spark plugs, wires, rad. hoses, water pump, timing belt. Super prices!
http://www.evanshondaspecialist.com/page2.htm
Importautosalvage.com <-really helpful and nice.

Purchasing Aftermarket items:
http://www.clutchcityonline.com/racing.htm
http://www.impactparts.com/
http://www.lightningmotorsports.com/index1.htm <-these guys rule! Very friendly.. best customer service I recieved.
http://store.summitracing.com/
http://www.adventon.com/
http://www.tirerack.com/index.jsp arguably best place for wheels, tires, brakes, suspension.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/
https://www.speedbleeder.com/
http://www.roadworksauto.com/welcome.htm <--You can get a set of custom cut and stitched floormats for under a 100$ They're great.
http://www.maccar.com/neusus.html
http://www.maccar.com/hrsus.html
http://www.inlinefour.com/jspec.html <-They sell that complete top end gasket set for b16's.. I posted the link in this thread a few up. If not find it at this sight under OEM.

Information: What you need to do it right the first time!

http://www.phatwhippincrx.20m.com/custom.html <-swap
http://tjshondas.20m.com/rrdisc.htm <-rear discs
http://www.ff-squad.com/Bgears.htm <-gear ratios
http://www.quickhonda.net/yearDiffs.htm <-crx differences
http://www.sgmotorsports.com/tiresize.htm#TireSize <-good when changing tire sizes or wheel sizes.
http://b16a.honda-perf.org/tech.html <-b16 tech
http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/codes.html <-ECU codes for b16 and others.
http://www.kolinskyartbrushes.com/mminch.html<- Millimeter to inch conversion
http://www.sfu.ca/~ims/crx/hybrid/hy...wap_steps.html Swap steps
http://overboost.com/story.asp?id=422 <-use this WHOLE SIGHT.. and it's search feature.. it has tons of helpful articles and pictures... One of the most helpful sights out there.




[Modified by rice_classic, 10:06 PM 7/21/2002]

 

wow - those are a lot of good links. nice post there. i got my motor from HMO and it runs really good. i redline it often. could you please tell me a little more about the valve guides? as far as i can tell my motor runs really good. am i taking a risk not looking at the valve guides? again, very nice post. i wish i would have had it before i did my swap

 

In order to check the guides you have to remove the head/valve/springs. I'm assuming you know EXACTLY what the guides are. I did not actually spec mine, I had my dad do it because we we're in different states but then we had a machine shop second look it and replace them. You're not running a huge risk but you will be decreasing the life of your engine. I built a 9krpm motor so I had to have everything done perfectly, if you know what I'm sayin.

 

to tell you the truth i dont know what the guides are. i'm only familiar with the valves/springs/retainers. so as a daily driver i probably shouldnt worry about it?

thankyou

 

alright, about instalation fromt he bottom..... tihs is not going to work. ive got a engine hoist prepared for rthe swap and i was planning on using it. it cant be that hard to do the swap fromt he top. please outline any additional info i would need to konw (i.e. remove throtte body to avoid damaging TPS, ect. ect.)

 

Your guides are the tubular sleeves that the stem of the valve rides up and down inside of. They technically "guide" the valve. The valve should go perfectly straight up and down any resistance to do so damages valves or weakens valves shortening the life of your engine. I'm not sure if bad valve guides could lead to dropping a valve but I don't see why not.



Look at 16 and 18 how they correspond with the valves.. those are the guides also known as the lost motion assembly.

Here is website.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...RM+%28V-TEC%29




[Modified by rice_classic, 9:37 AM 7/22/2002]

 

hey guys, im actually pulling my d16a6 out now, i got a few questions as to what these sensor do that i pulling out..

im following this guide to do this,
http://www.phatwhippincrx.20m.com/custom.html

im curious as to what the 2 sensors on the back of the block do.. and also i pulled this sensor out of the transmission, near the battery tray infront of the starter... what is this sensor for??? im also having trouble with this plug on the left hand side of the bay (looking from the front of the car) its covered in a rubber cover and theres grease allinside of it.. i tried pusing the clip in but it wont budge.. is there any special way of prying this plug to get it to seperate???

thnx for any responses

oh yeah... i was reading about u guys replacing valve guides onthese motors, and i wont have the cash to put new cams and **** in , but i was plannin on ding it in the future, so do u think i should lust leave the valve guides and hold off until i get the cams and valvetrain??


[Modified by johnzm, 5:14 PM 7/23/2002]

 

same story here, i've got an engine hoist ready to go. any suggestions and tips when i finally go to remove the engine?