****first and foremost, this is my first online build! I've been in the scene since 2000 and have learned quite a bit lol. Everything you see before you was/will be done by myself. All paint/bodywork, the midori green pearl, wiring/rhd conversion(starts on page 16), wiretucks, brake line tucks and relocations, swaps, upgrades etc. I'm doing myself. Whatever I don't know how to do I LEARN it! The car will go to the shop for any alignments and of course tuning/dyno. Any comments/feedback are appreciated! You can literally say anything you want. Just remember, don't be a jerk about it! Major shout outs go out to N1 concepts, jdmunlimited, rywire, password:jdm, anplumbing.com, jhpusa, summitracing.com, modacar.com, everyone keeping me going, my boys from Desired Knowledge:joe DK, mikey, daniel, my fiance BO, my moms, MAJOR UPS AND THANKS TO GOD! ******

updates and pictures on every page!


ok well after alot of years of messing round with different ef's(this is the 8th one) i finally found the one i wanted. a 1988 crx dx! but first, a few of the past ef's ive owned more recently:









ok. anyway, a deal presented itself to me. a freind of mine had a 1990 crx dx that was t boned on the front passenger side. other than that, it was in pretty good shape. we agreed on $500 so i cashed him out and got it towed to the house. here is the only pic i have of it. it was all stock with the acception of some ground controls.



ok now still another freind of mine (joetdk) had another crx. this one was simply a shell. but it held a clean title, was put into non-op status, and had da front and rear brakes, ef8 sir doors, and that was pretty much it! we agreed on 400 for that car. here it is when i bought it. the wheels on it were mine i brought from home because he didnt have any wheels for it.















now once i got the wrecked car home i completely stripped it down planning on putting all its parts onto the 88 dx. so i did and junked the shell. and i also put on some parts from my ditched ef hatch project.

i had planned to go h2b with my hatch and so i had a y1 lsd cable trans sitting around and everything i would need to go b series. a freind of mine had a pretty cheap b16a for sale so i figured i would slap that in temporarily. BUT! before i did all that i went ahead and painted all the jams and engine bay i did a wire tuck on the engine bay. Here is how it looked after I put all the parts from the 90' dx and my extra parts I ad collected for the hatch









jdm ITR cluster mugen racing II wheel







jdm fenders. i had the jdm headlights also but i needed the hood and bumper still







ok in this picture, the rear is actually converted to 4x114.3 96 spec itr. only the rear is like that because i sold the rear discs that were on there lol and needed to put wheels on the car.

now the car never ran with the b16a. it was setup as obd1 with a boomslang jumper harness. but it had issues with the wiring. before i put the interior in i went ahead and sourced a complete harness from an si crx to make my swap life easier. but the harness i bought had internal issues and i had to actually change the complete harness a number of times. i actually did 3 wire tucks on this car! boy did that suck and i also wired up the jdm cluster twice!

anyway, sometime later a freind of mine had his gsr engine lose compression on one cylinder. so i ended up trading it for this b16a longblock seen here. there was nothing wrong with my b16a, his gsr had low compression. i needed a motor for my sedan so we traded(i was going to rebuild it). i came up because i bought the b16a for 500 and later just sold the gsr for 650.

so after that i just slapped the single cam motor from the dx into the car but first bought am si mani, dizzy, and ecu for it.

-

Here is my parts/mods list. This list will be updated whenever the parts are added so you know what yur getting into lol!
PARTS LIST___________________________

interior:
-RHD conversion
-mugen Racing II steering wheel
-mugen polished shift ****
-mugen sports pedal kit
-Mugen S1 bucket for the strip and ef7 seats for cruizn
-jdm ef8 sir door panels
-jdm ef8 sir autocon climate control
-jdm ef8 sir bumper pole switch
-jdm ef8 sir fog light switch
-jdm ef8 gauge cluster
-dakota digital gauges(oil pressure, voltmeter,and coolant temp)
-blk/red stitching shift boot
-power mirrors/cf mirrors
-customheadliner and sun visors

exterior:

-jdm ef8 sir front end conversion
-carbon fiber ef8 oem style hood
-jdm ef8 sir doors
-jdm ef8 sir rear bumper
-jdm ef8 sir power non-folding mirrors
-jdm ef8 sir rear emblem
-edm ee8 tailights with foglight
-honda access japan jdm ef8 sir window visors
-honda access japan bumper pole
-jdm ef8 sir pdgm f dohc vtec door decals

suspension/wheels/engine bay/brakes:

-16x7 +37? jaknife m8's (I believe)
-tein superstreet 16 way adjustable dampers
-polished function/form rear lca's
-explicit speed performance traction bars
-wire tucked/shaved engine bay
-10.2" da9 front knuckles with arp extended studs
-earls stainless steel braided brakelines
-da9 rear disc's with arp extended studs
-40/40 brake proportioning valve
-1990 honda prelude master cylinder
-mugen reservoir cover


the car is currently under the knife1 right now im shaving my engine bay and i'lll have before and after pics. the bay wont be repainted again though until i drop the single and put this in:



here is what my engine setup will consist of:


-1992 jdm h22a
-explicit speed performance h2b 4-2-1 race header
-toda 7lb flywheel
-act 6 puck clutch
-p28 chipped and tuned on a wide band
-y1 lsd cable trans
-q.s.d. h2b kit
-Hasport mounts
-Stock axles
-custom obd1 plug n play harness made by myself using a boomslang jumper
-explicit speed performance alternator relocator kit
-removed butterfly plate
-h23 manual timing belt tensioner conversion and deleted balancer shaft belt
-crank pulley shaved down to a single belt pulley and moved 1/2" inward
-ngk iridium spark plugs
-ngk spark plug wires
im hoping to make at least 200whp on just this header, a straightpipe, and a nice exhaust

Here is a wishlist/parts that I still need list:


-4 or 6 point io port racing roll bar
-13" slicks of some sort
-powerslot slotted rotors up front
-skunk2 pro series camber kit
-might buy a CUSCO mc brace if I don't spend too much on the other stuff
-midori green pearl!
so here is how the car sits now.i literally have everything i need to drop the h2b in except for the h2b kit itself and shift linkage. i actually live close to the founder of the kit so hopefully once he has more i can go pick one up and drop this sucker in!. sorry for the cell phone pics! will have real pics up soon. im tired of typing .





Modified by thevtecnician at 8:49 AM 8/16/2008

 

These were taken a few days ago. Since this picture I installed my tom's motorsports CF bucket seats. They are black cloth with cf backs. I like em! I took some more pics too but with a digital camera this time! I'll load em asap!


Modified by thevtecnician at 6:28 AM 5/13/2008

 

What crossmember are you going with?

 

I'm goin with th ESP bar. You have a build or somethin on your car I can look at? I wanna see how you went 11.6's

 

dang about time u pt this suckeer on honda tech

hahahaa he wants on ef squad lol


u should get on joe squad that is a tight one

well keep it up bud i need to start one for the db soon!

 

Lol you might as well! If albert squad can make it so could joe squad lol!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thevtecnician &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lol you might as well! If albert squad can make it so could joe squad lol! </TD></TR></TABLE>

i dono if i have that many groupies lol

 

wow2x really nice..

 

Thanks for the love

Today me and my fiance will be replacing my master cylinder due to it leaking, and bleeding the brakes so I can get this sucker on the road again!

 

Ok so we replaced my MC. After I unbolted the old one and trashed it, we put the new one(not really new, but came off a car that had good brakes) and bled it via this thread here:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1308100

I just used brakelines that were already cut and threaded them in, and put a small length of hose on the ends and ran them into the reservoir. It worked; all the air bubbles were out. When I went to bolt my two lines up I couldn't get them to thread in. So I ended up unbolting it from the booster and threading them in. By the time I finally unbolted the MC from the booster I had lost a lot of fluid already. After I bled the lines individually my pedal now goes all the way down and the calipers bite the pad just before its all the way down. Tomorow I'm going to re-bleed my MC with my fiance and see if that helps. If that doesn't fix it I'll be stumped!

On another note I got some new pics taken with a REAL camera! Enjoy!


here is a shot of my explicit speed performance traction bar made specifically for the h22a swap



and here is a shot of my seats i just put in. bought these babies for 450 brand new





dont mind my dirty car lol. im in the middle of removing my sound deadener.

here is a teaser shot of my rear lca's and my tein suspension lol, just for fun








Modified by thevtecnician at 11:29 PM 5/13/2008

 

who took those pics bud the neew ones are super clean

 

.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joetdk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">who took those pics bud the neew ones are super clean </TD></TR></TABLE>
oh its bo's camera. she has a digital camera. the pics are much smaller now though but they are clear so thats all that matters. as soon as she leaves again im gonna be stuck with no computer or camera lol! im gonna have to buy a laptop or something and a camera.

so anyway today me and my fiance re-bled my master cylinder, with not much luck. i have barely any pressure still! i do have brakes now though but it travels all the way down before anything really happens lol. if my car wasnt as light as it is i think i wouldnt be able to stop at all. i dont know what to do! my brakes worked before i pulled off the da fronts and 4x114.3 rear discs. im stumped. i think im gonna set up an appointment for brake masters and see what they say, in the meantime i'm gonna start saving up for my 5 lug. does anyone know of any 13 or 14 inch slicks that will fit the 5x114 brakes? i know people are reading this lol.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joetdk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">who took those pics bud the neew ones are super clean </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

im in to watch this for a while!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Smokinsax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im in to watch this for a while!</TD></TR></TABLE>



Well since my car was actually running today I figured I would take care of the battery problem. When I did my wire tuck, I moved the fusebox into the cabin and placed it where the ecu would normally go and put the ecu behind the center console. When I did this I didn't have the correct cables and fuse to re-locate my battery to far from the fusebox so it was placed temporarily on the passenger side floor board near the center console and just under the glove box. The stock battery is too big and was always on the list of replacement, so today I went ahead and ordered this and the terminals to go with it:

http://inlinefour.com/bakhigperbat.html

I'm not too sure where I'm going to put it yet. It will probably end up going to the very back of the car by the tailighhts so later on down the road when I get my master cutoff switch I can mount it behind the license plate for track use. I also need to run to a beat shop and get the fuse for it and some power cables.

Has anyone had any experience with these batteries?

 

nice build! i bet joe is regretting it, huh?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spooncvc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice build! i bet joe is regretting it, huh?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks I try Lol! I don't know though. Joe always says if I ever sell it(which I won't) I have to sell it to him no matter how much I want. I think if someone even offered me 10,000 in cash for it right now I still wouldn't sell it. I love my ef!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thevtecnician &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thanks I try Lol! I don't know though. Joe always says if I ever sell it(which I won't) I have to sell it to him no matter how much I want. I think if someone even offered me 10,000 in cash for it right now I still wouldn't sell it. I love my ef!</TD></TR></TABLE>

HAHA, yeah, I wouldn't sell it if I was offered $10,000. $15,000? a possibility...I could build another one... bigger better, faster, stronger!

 

also, still have the SA3Rs? are they 4x100?

 

Yah I guess you're right $15000 is a lot lol. But you would still have to wait parts to pop up. We can't just buy everything we want brand new from a shop we have to source it first and wait for it to come. N1 was awesome though, cheap prices. My doors, fenders, headlights, climate control, and rear bumper came from there.

As for the sa3r's they are long gone. Those things were 16x8 with about, I'd say +20 offset they stuck out about 1.5" past my wheel well lol. They were 4x114.3

 

a gang-star bump!

 

Well depending on the weather today me and my fiance plan to clean the car insideout. I removed all the sound deadener from the back of the car's interior and the chunks are just sitting around the car. I'm gonna put it all in a buket and weigh it to see how much weight I'm saving, and for all to see!

I'm also debating on whether or not to still go 5 lug. The car will be caged and ready for the track. If I can't put a set of slicks on it its a pretty useless h2b swap don't you think? Any feedback is appreciated!

 

well 5 lug is better then a h22 they suck expecally with a h2b kit lsd b series trannys suck u need to run a d2k kit that is soo clean d series dx motor dual point with a 6 speed k series tranny that is tight!

 

Yeah that's true. I'll just bolt the motor in backwards like ak would sit

 

Well it looks like the crx is gonna sit on back burner today and collect more dust. Its about 100000 degrees celsius outside lol.

 

lol yea a nice day to go swiming and they cruise at night lol thats wat we did last night

well went to in and out lol me steve antony gill and justin

cars 3 egs 1 clean db8 and 1 ek