93-96 dc sports h22 header:


97-01 dc sports non-sh header:


im being offered a dc sports 93-96 h22 header new for just $120 cuz the store is closing out but i have a 2000 base lude. i looked at the header and measured it in my hand versus the stock one and it seems almost identical. The most obvious difference is the bung for the O2 sensor. questions is: Can i get the 93-96 header and when i do the 2.5 in. collector mod have the bung moved and it will fit correctly? Another guy told me to just put the sensor there and the second sensor after the cat and block the original bung before the sensor. Any recommendations?

and no i dont plan on spending more than 300 on a header so hytech and all the other great brands are out of the question. I know the dc sports is barely a differnce over stock (as read on H-T) but for that price i might as well get it and modify it a bit.


p.s. i dont check my spelling so ignore errors

 

anyone?....anyone....? bueler?.....bueler

 

ya maybe you could have a new o2 bung put in and use the other one for a wideband or plug it.

 

**** just buy it for that price if it dont fit you could just sell it

 

when you get you "collector mod" done, just bring your old header up with you and tell them that you want the length the same overall

i believe the 5th gen one is shorter, but don't quote me on it

 

tru dat 5th gen is shorter i know this cause i almost bought one

 

imma be a guinea pig and try this out if it doesnt work ill just sell it but right now im thinking of getting the collector mod done with a bung like the one now for a wide band (plugged until i actually buy the wideband) and another bung out back for the 02 sensor.....thanks...ill let you know how it went, im just waitng on tax returns to buy the wideband.

 

9 times out of 10 off the shelf items never fit right... keep that in mind

 

5th gen is shorter. I know for a fact. I accidentally bought one a long time ago and had to extend the exhaust piping on my 4th gen.

 

PasswordJDM.com also sells a O2 wire extender harness.

 

the length of the o2 harness isnt the problem its the actual fitment thats the issue but ill keep that in mind. saturday i MIGHT go to the shop and get it done if not than next week...depends on my work schedule

 

when you are doing a 2.5" collector mod, you are chopping off all of the differences between the two header yrs anyway, so it doesnt matter. waht car its for. as long as it mates to the right engine, u will be fine.

 

update: went to install everything fit perfect now for the bottom half i noticed that the tube passed the cat(resonator in its place) so i removed it. the harness for the first sensor was perfect lentgh also and for the second sensor i had to fill a gap of about 4 in. of piping in order for the end of the header to meet the rest of the piping so i just bolted on a flange, welded tubing to the rest of the exhaust and put a o2 bung on the side. looks like it can from the factory.


The only thing i find weird though is that with the stock header i had 2 resonators and a flowmaster with 2.5 in full piping and the car was loud yet deep. and now with only 1 resonator, header and flowmaster it sounds quiet and not as deep as before. it feels like i lost a bit of power on the low range (1k-3k) but other than that it feels powerful on mid range and high, its revving faster now too.

if anyone asks ill post pics. thanks for the help.

 

the reason it is so quiet and revs fast is because you removed the cat and that frees up the engine alot... actually your engine is probably freed up to much... my h23a1 stock header broke off the cat and i drove it like that for awhile and it didnt seem as fast as before...but actually my lude was alot quicker...especially on the top gears...quote me if im wrong anybody...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pkolaboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the reason it is so quiet and revs fast is because you removed the cat and that frees up the engine alot... actually your engine is probably freed up to much... my h23a1 stock header broke off the cat and i drove it like that for awhile and it didnt seem as fast as before...but actually my lude was alot quicker...especially on the top gears...quote me if im wrong anybody...</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pkolaboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the reason it is so quiet and revs fast is because you removed the cat and that frees up the engine alot... actually your engine is probably freed up to much... </TD></TR></TABLE>


^ is wrong

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb6_00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if anyone asks ill post pics. thanks for the help.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would love to see the end result, I have never seen a completed 2.5 collector mod.

 

didnt have a cat in the first place, just a resonator in its place followed by another one. dont ask why, it was sold to me like that, and the piping is professional 2.5 fits exact has some badge on it says "made in japan" with some serial numbers...dont really know.

as to the freeing up too much i really dont know if it is freeing up too much considering ive seen people running 3 inches without turbo (dyno proven) right here on h-t.

i didnt do the mod, didnt really bother with it since its practically going staight back anyway.

 

distance with resontor removed


perfect fit on plug


took flange off resonator but the 02 bung (not pictured) turned out to be facing downward so another bung was placed on the side of the piece of new pipe



one resonator left



flowmaster 40 series not 60 series. bolt on flowmaster for prelude is a 60 series. called flowmaster they said the actual flow rate of gases is the same so i got the 40 series which sounds deeper plus only 90 bucks plus a can of black paint and a welded on tip verses $200+ for bolt on.