what wires to i tap into for a kill switch?
can i use a regular toggle switch?
thanks.

 

what kind of kill switch? A racing or just plain don't start my car switch?

 

a dont' start my car switch

 

a simple kill switch could just be something that cuts one of the lines to the ignition.

pull off the cover plates under the wheel and you'll see. I'm actually thinking about using just a cheap $1.50 radioshack switch and cutting one of the ignition wires. then just mount the switch wherever you want.

 

You'll need to know how to off the cover of the steering column. Next you'll need a test light or a volt meter. Basically you will need to test the wires. The wire to cut is the starter wire. The starter wire can be identified as the wire that is "hot" when you crank the ignition key. BY cutting the wire and adding some sort of switch or relay you will prevent the starter motor from turning over and starting the car.

 

you sound just like my old auto electricity teacher. Also try switches on other systems if the thieving is real bad in your area. If it's an auto, you can get creative w/ the park mode sensor... bastards wont be able to get it out of parking lock A couple well placed switches (electrically and physically) will give even the best thief a hard time. Time is important b/c no thief wants to spend a lot of time working on a car.

 

Isn't it a good idea to place a relay between the switch and the actual wire?

 

http://forums.clubsi.com/showflat.ph...th&Main=549214

 

nice link
thanks for the help everybody

 

I'm not sure I would tap into the starter wire from this location:
Isn't that right where the theives will go when trying to hot-wire a car, or disable any security features?

Makes more sense to me to use a relay to control the starter from a very "inconvenient" location.

------------------------------------------------------

Side Note:
I have heard that disabling ONLY the fuel pump (via relay) and trying to start the car can cause fuel supply problems LATER. Any comments on disabling the Starter, Fuel Injectors, and Fuel pump in tendem? This would require 3 30A 12VDC SPST relays, or one 30A 12VDC 3DPDT right?

Thank You.

 

Its better to use an extra relay to disable the fuel pump because this way you can place the relay somewhere else, but yes both methods would work.

Personally, I would add a switch in a hidden location that kills the pump rather than interface it to my alarm with another relay, if my alarm is bypassed (ie. Disabling the starter kill) then technically, my fuel pump would go at the same time.

If my fuel pump was on a seperate switch, my alarm is Layered, in that both have to be bypassed to start the car.

-Rage

 

hmm you might need a relay

 

hmm ok so lets see. we've determined that its better to kill the fuel pump than the starter ignition, and have that separate from the alarm. on the clubsi site there is debate on whether to switch the power or the ground wire to the fuel pump. any comment on that here?

 

haha ok. can a diode be used to help prevent a voltage spike? (not disagreeing here, just trying to learn)

 

Anyone got the wire Color code on ground side of the fuel pump?? I think my yellow red was tapped and I just wanted to make sure its not +ve as well (don't have my manual handy!)

-Rage

 

ok im not too familiar with relays but ive been reading up on them. it looks similar to a switch. how would the relay be rigged up in this application?

 

also, i wonder if anyone has seen this one:

http://www.ae92gts.com/ae92gts_antitheft.html

this looks really well designed. i cant really understand the relay part though. im guessing when that momentary switch is pressed, the relay is activated?

 

The design of that relay circuit is actually quite nice. After studying it for a while, you'll find the genius at work behind the way it was designed. At first, i was inclined to think that the relay is unecessary and all that was need was a momentary to start the car.

But, with further thinking I realized that the relay is there to latch on after the momentary is depressed. Pretty nifty circuit if I do say so myself.

Teken: If I was to implement the diode into my that circuit, where would it go? Would it come between the fuel pump + and the exit of that circuit?

 

im still inclined to think that but thats because i still dont have a firm grasp on the relay concept.

and what would the orientation of the anode/cathode sides be?

 

Teken: I would not trust my fuel and ignition system (which remain ON at great lengths of time) to bargain components.

However, my local audio/alarm shop doesn't carry Bosch relays.
Do you recommend anywhere else to get some? Neither NAPA or Autozone in my city have Bosch relays.

Thank You Sir, I appreciate it.

 

Follow-Up:

I asked another audio shop for some Bosch relays and they had some!
They are rated 30/40A. I picked up some wire harnesses for them too.
They don't say Bosch on them though. . . . do the Bosch relays you use have the Bosch logo on them Teken?
These have part #
HG4255
012-1Z9(M)


Thanks,
Karl

 

Bummer, I'll just save the knock-offs for a non-critical application (fog lights maybe).
The hunt is on again for Bosch relays . . . . . I won't use anything less for my fuel system. Maybe I'll travel to Austin this weekend and find some.

Wish me luck.
They really last 10 years? That's excellent.

 

Here is a store that sells Bosch brand relays and other electronics:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showp...ectGroup_ID=31

Now to place my order. . . . .