READ THROUGH ENTIRE THREAD BECAUSE I HAVE INFO IN ALOT OF POSTS I KEEP ADDING, SOME INFO IS WRONG BUT I CORRECT IT IN LATER POSTS. ITS ALL A LEARNING PROCESS.

this thread is in reference to my eight 3rd and 4th gears ive broken in my z6 and y8 transmissions. this will probably end up on my 93 civic with 400+whp d16z6 so i thought i would document it.

i located this 86-89 integra CG tranny and traveled about 2 hours to go pick it up for $75. i was also given the intermediate shaft, shift linkage, and clutch cable. i got a deal

for the people that dont know the CG trans has 5th gear on the outside of the case. kinda like how people replace 5th gear with a handcuff, well this one has a handcuff built into the trans and you odnt have to get rid of 5th gear. it came on the dohc d16a1's in 86-89 1st gen integras. the gear ratios are much shorter than the z6/y8 trans. according to g1teg.org, a site dedicated to the first generation integra, the gear ratios are the same throughout 86 to 89 which can be seen here http://www.g1teg.org/specs/

this transmission is essentially like a tougher b-series transmission that bolts up to sohc d-series blocks.after looking at this in person it looks real promising. screw trying to put a b-series trans on a d-series while spending thousands and thousands of dollars in the process. i was told the b16 differential drops right in these so that will be good since i need a lsd. i will know more once i open it up further.

first things first, my good camera broke so i have to use my old shitty one so youll have to deal with the crappy pics.

the tranny torque mount on 92+ civics should bolt onto this tranny with some modifcation. im still not sure what im going to do with the top tranny mount as this tranny has no holes and it uses some sort of exhaust hanger looking mount according to the pics on acuraautomotiveparts.org




the pilot bearing portion of the cg mainshaft is much larger than d or b-series. im hoping the cg pilot bearing is small enough still to fit into my flywheel. the cg has a 21 spline shaft and their clutchs are 200mm while the z6/y8's have a 20 spline shaft and their clutches are 212mm. the accord/prelude a20 uses a 20spline/210mm clutch. only a 2mm difference which will work with my current z6 flywheel and pressure plate and allow me to bolt up this tranny.


CG uses the same starter as any other d-series.


gsr intermediate shaft fits perfectly into the differential. the CG intermediate shaft has a female end like 90-93 teg cable trannies so i will need to use those halfshafts. the d16z6 block has provisions for a intermediate shaft but the holes are not tapped and only 1 or 2 of the holes line up with the cg shaft. ill have to fabricate a adaptor plate for that.


running the clutch cable to the pedal on my 93 civic should be no problem if i decide to go with the cable. ill just need to make the hole in the firewall a tad bit smaller with a plate. a friend of mine has a 93 civic with a cable tranny, ill have to see how he did his. btw, the cg clutch cable is the same as an EF's but the cg's is about 3 inches shorter in length.


not sure exactly what shift linkage ill need to use until i get it up in the car. but more than likely the CG linkage.


ill have to modify the rear mount bracket.


bolted upto a d15b7 engine. all 4 top and front bolts go in perfectly. the rear bolt is off by about a 1/4". that can be fixed though.


the starter bolt that goes in the block does not line up though so i will need to tap that hole in the tranny.


my cg trans didnt have a reverse switch on it, but any d-series switch will work.


notice the angle of the shift rod.


the cg trans has the springs and ball bearings just like the b-series and y8 transmissions. but on the cg they are on the underside of the tranny.


this bolt on top i can only guess is just another oil fill hole as it just goes into the case and does nothing. the cg still has the other oil fill and drain holes in the normal spot as any other honda transmission though.


5th gear cover plate removed. gasket is STUCK haha


there is the bearing underneath the 5th gear on the countershaft which also has the snap ring around it. im not sure yet but i think in order to seperate the cases i might have to take the 5th gear off the mainshaft as i dont see it being able to slide through the case the countershaft.


the CG gears are the larger thicker gears just like b-series transmissions, woohoo!! hard to tell from teh pic but more than a few millimeters thicker.


the electronic VSS pops right into place of the cable vss if you were to put this tranny into a 92+ civic like i am doing.


and just for fun :D

"fastline" type shifter made from 2 oem shifters.


thats as far as i got tonight, its been a long day... i will post more progress real soon.


Modified by mike93eh2 at 11:48 PM 4/13/2008


Modified by mike93eh2 at 11:51 PM 4/13/2008


Modified by mike93eh2 at 11:19 PM 5/5/2008


Modified by mike93eh2 at 11:26 PM 5/5/2008

 

definitely keeping an eye on this thread. Never even heard about this until your other thread.

 

Good luck man.

 

 

now im confused as to what axles i will need to put this in my 93 civic... at first i was thinking the CG axles were the same as 90-93 teg axles. but the part numbers are different and came upon this..

http://hondaswap.com/hybrid-ed...95259/

guy says 90-93 are shorter than 86-89...well the drivers side at least is.. so if anyone has any clues let me know. id hate to order some axles and they be the wrong ones.

 

In for more info.... Nice post!

 

in for results, pretty sure i know where i can pick one of these up cheap

 

If you didn't know this already... make sure you keep an eye on your oil level in the transmission. If it gets too low, the 5th gear assembly will get starved for oil and fail. It happened to me on my way back from Denver one night. I had to drive 250 miles on the interstate, 80 mph, in 4th gear. It's a fairly common failure in these transmissions..

You can also use the 5th gear set from the 86-89 Accords if you want to. It is a taller 5th, which will lower your revs when cruising on the freeway. HTH.


<--- Former '87 Teg owner

 

bump...and pm sent...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The_Head &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you didn't know this already... make sure you keep an eye on your oil level in the transmission. If it gets too low, the 5th gear assembly will get starved for oil and fail. It happened to me on my way back from Denver one night. I had to drive 250 miles on the interstate, 80 mph, in 4th gear. It's a fairly common failure in these transmissions..

You can also use the 5th gear set from the 86-89 Accords if you want to. It is a taller 5th, which will lower your revs when cruising on the freeway. HTH.


&lt;--- Former '87 Teg owner</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks!

another update coming tonight. fell asleep early last night.

 

got the transmission disassembled. i inspected everything in it and suprisingly enough its really clean and every single bearing and seal are perfect. the syncro rings, springs, and hubs all look new. so do the dog teeth on the gears. pretty nice for a 20+ year old transmission.. but it has sat for awhile according to the guy i got it from.

you have to remove the roll pin from the shift rod to remove the 5th gear fork. then i had to remove the 5th gear on the mainshaft. NOTE: mainshaft nut is reverse threaded!! now you see both shafts have a snap ring. but only the countershaft snap ring needs to be spread apart to split the case. youll see why in the next pics.


this transmission uses a gasket between the case halves. why honda did this i dont know but ill have to get a new one because ill need the gasket if i want to keep everything in spec.














the axle seal is huge! so is the differential shim. its 3mm! im guessing its that thick because of the use of a gasket between the case halves.


the magnet is really clean for a 20+ year old tranny.


youll need to take these 3 12point bolts out to get the gearset out.


the input shaft bearing is not pressed into the case. it stays on the mainshaft when removing the gearset. notice the snap ring on the mainshaft keeping the ISB on..





really clean....well on the inside haha but the outside is getting cleaned as we speak.


gsr obx lsd and cg differential.


cg ring gear on the right is much thicker than the gsr's ring gear.

 

For the right front torque mount you can make up a L bracket like we did for rota's lower mounts with the B series tranny. 1/4" steel plates with a gusset.

I think you've seen the photo.

Good Luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1992Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For the right front torque mount you can make up a L bracket like we did for rota's lower mounts with the B series tranny. 1/4" steel plates with a gusset.

I think you've seen the photo.

Good Luck.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea i was going to do that or just pick this up..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWD1V

but the front and rear torque mounts arent what im worried about.. im worried about the transmission mount because there arent even any holes for a mount. ive seen pics of automatic 1st gen teg trannies and they have holes. any ideas what i should do would be helpful.

 

very interesting topic. thanks for sharing this!

 

ive been wondering if this would work!

 

just found out that since i will be using my d16z6 flywheel and action pressure plate with a a20 clutch disc i will need to use a EF throwout release bearing instead of the CG.

 

I don't think that mount will take ANY torque without snapping.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think that mount will take ANY torque without snapping.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what exactly are you talking about? im lost..

 

now i just need to start ordering parts so i can put the tranny together.. then fabrication begins...but i think since summer is starting and i just put a new trans in my car a week ago, im probably going to just wait until i blow another 3rd or 4th gear...but as we all know that wont take me very long. HA!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93eh2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what exactly are you talking about? im lost..
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm talking about the ebay link to the passenger side transmission mount you posted. I don't think it will be able to withstand the force of a 400 hp car grabbing gears. The rubber looks very thin and weak.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm talking about the ebay link to the passenger side transmission mount you posted. I don't think it will be able to withstand the force of a 400 hp car grabbing gears. The rubber looks very thin and weak.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i currently have avid torque mounts.. i will be still using those. basically im using all the same mounts and torque mounts im using right now but will just need to fabricate all the bracketry. im probably not going to get that stock torque mount in the ebay link and just make the whole thing myself since i will need to chop that one all up anyway since its not near long enough.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93eh2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i currently have avid torque mounts.. i will be still using those. basically im using all the same mounts and torque mounts im using right now but will just need to fabricate all the bracketry. im probably not going to get that stock torque mount in the ebay link and just make the whole thing myself since i will need to chop that one all up anyway since its not near long enough.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Solid. I just put 95a's in my car and i love the way it drives.

 

i had to shave a little off the electric VSS to get it to clear..


and since the gear on the electric VSS's are in a little bit different location on the rod than the cable VSS's, i shimmed it up a little with some washers so its in the same spot as the cable VSS..... although hasport didnt do this when they did the install of their hydro d-series trans into EF conversion.

 

tapped the starter bolt hole today. you need to use a 1/2" x 20tpi tap and bolt. works perfectly with the hole without having to drill it out. ill also need this exact tap to do the intermediate shaft mounting.

 

a M12-1.25 tap should work, but i would probably just use the half inch one.

metric tools are more expensive usually