B18B completely rebuilt - head gasket leaking
1998 B18B, completely rebuilt
Block sleeved by GE
83 mm Honda head gasket (from GE)
Head decked .005" (done my my engine builder at his shop)
ARP Head studs
Prestone Antifreeze
Just started the engine today and there is a very, very small coolant leak between the head and the block. My engine builder wants me to try the **** you dump in the radiator to seal leaks before tearing anything apart. Is this stuff worth trying? The leak does not even drip down the block, it just sits at the very edge of the head gasket. Also, what is most likely my problem? Is there a better head gasket than the OEM Honda? Cometic?
Modified by lsturbo* at 11:44 AM 4/13/2008
Modified by lsturbo* at 2:50 PM 4/14/2008
Block sleeved by GE
83 mm Honda head gasket (from GE)
Head decked .005" (done my my engine builder at his shop)
ARP Head studs
Prestone Antifreeze
Just started the engine today and there is a very, very small coolant leak between the head and the block. My engine builder wants me to try the **** you dump in the radiator to seal leaks before tearing anything apart. Is this stuff worth trying? The leak does not even drip down the block, it just sits at the very edge of the head gasket. Also, what is most likely my problem? Is there a better head gasket than the OEM Honda? Cometic?
Modified by lsturbo* at 11:44 AM 4/13/2008
Modified by lsturbo* at 2:50 PM 4/14/2008
yeah id try a 5 dollar bottle of crud before you go ripping your head off again. it could have been improperly torqued down. other than that, im not the guy to ask.
thats like covering an open heart surgery with a band aid...sometimes that stuff does more harm than good...you should def. recheck the torque on the head bolts...did u use a known good head? are you positive its not warped or anything...also u can use a coolant pressure tester (pump tool) and watch the gauge for an internal coolant leak or external...also might wanna try compression and leaktesting the engine...the oem gaskets should seal regardless if everything is right... are u sure maybe u jus spilled some coolant and its hasnt dried off yet b/c u say it does not drip?
Yes, I actually blew off the coolant with a air gun and it come back in about 10 minutes. So the size of the leak is very minimal, but it still is a leak. I guess if I rip it apart, how will I ever know what the problem really is? I can put a straight edge across the block and head again, and replace the head gasket with an aftermarket one? This was a Honda OEM that was sized for 83MM, do they take a stock 81mm and bore it to 83MM or is it from a different application? Also, my builder wants to try the Bar-leaks first whcih I am OK with as long as it will not clog up passages in my coolant system...any more advice is appriciated...
Well, another thing to consider is that this is a stepped deck from GE, could the sleeves be too high cause the head gasket not to seal around the edge of the head? Also, do you think a re-torque is typically necessary in this situation? I know it is a good idea to check the torques, but is it typically required with a stepped deck?
hey just make sure that the two dowl pins are lined up or seated properly because i had the same problem when i had head work done to my gsr head and i assume you already know that the head bolts are expansion bolts and you can not reuse them i didnt know that till after i pulled my head off 3 time lol .. just looking out
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Option 1.) Put Bar-leaks in radiator
option 2.) Retorque the head
Option 3.) Pull head, inspect, replace head gasket and put copper spray on the gasket (nothing was used the first time)
Option 4.) Drive as is for a while to see in thermal cycling will help the situation.
Problem with option 1 is the fact that the cams need to be removed to re torque the head studs and I am half way to replacing the head gasket at that point.
Any advice is appreciated..thanks
Modified by lsturbo* at 3:25 PM 4/14/2008
Option 1.) Put Bar-leaks in radiator
option 2.) Retorque the head
Option 3.) Pull head, inspect, replace head gasket and put copper spray on the gasket (nothing was used the first time)
Option 4.) Drive as is for a while to see in thermal cycling will help the situation.
Problem with option 1 is the fact that the cams need to be removed to re torque the head studs and I am half way to replacing the head gasket at that point.
Any advice is appreciated..thanks
Modified by lsturbo* at 3:25 PM 4/14/2008
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