Where did you end up running your power and remote wire, and how do I go about connecting RCA cables to the stock CD player? I've searched this topic before and came up with a couple of threads on the location of a hole in the firewall and subwoofer size and whatnot.

Just wondering exactly how to go about doing this. I have picked out the subwoofer I'd like to use in place of the stock subwoofer, and I was also wondering what the bolt pattern is on the stock speaker. I know it's an 8" subwoofer.

http://www.pioneerelectronics....W841D

Just looking for a little bit more bump, nothing too crazy.

 

ive heard some people use that sub and are very happy with it. The sound and fitment are pretty good from what ive read.
As far as connectiing the rca's to the deck, you will need a line level converter. they run like 20 bucks at Best buy or circuit city. You just tap into the stock sub lead and out to the amp from the rca's I ran all of my wires down the driver side panels and under the back seat into the trunk. Theres a thread on here https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2205567 that may be useful.

 

run your power thru the fire wall about 1/2 way across the dash is a good spot. run the power wire down the driver side. hook the line level converter to the leads that go to the factory sub. disconnect the factory sub if using a box. don't use the sub and a box, one or the other for best sound. the line level converter powers on when the radio sends a signal to the factory sub. the converter has a remote wire on it, hook that to your amp and your good to go. if you run RCA's power and remote run the power and remote on the driver's side and the RCA's on the passenger side to reduce noise. you never run speaker wires and RCA's next to you power wire. you will get noise from the current of you're alternator. good luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondamanforlife &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you never run speaker wires and RCA's next to you power wire. you will get noise from the current of you're alternator. good luck!</TD></TR></TABLE>

True, except it doesn't really matter as much with low frequency sound (bass). This is more affected with use of a multi channel amp when running power to mid-high frequency component/aftermarket speakers.

It's an open-air subwoofer designed to drop in place of my stock woofer. No box involved.

I'm running the power wire through the boot behind my gas pedal. (It will run through drivers side plastic paneling, along with a remote wire spliced with fuse #35 in the under-dash fuse box, as depicted in previous threads.)

What I'm most concerned about is the method of running the RCA cables. Is it necessary to do, considering I'll be using the stock leads for the line level converter? Does that eliminate the need for RCA cables and a remote wire, considering the bass will be controllable from the stock head unit?

Also, I checked out my trunk. The way it looks right now, it will be a tight (if not impossible) fit for the woofer that I linked to in my last post. The area where the stock woofer is mounted is completely enclosed in metal paneling and I think it's all welded together. Do I have to cut anything for this sub to fit properly?

 

What I'm most concerned about is the method of running the RCA cables. Is it necessary to do, considering I'll be using the stock leads for the line level converter? Does that eliminate the need for RCA cables and a remote wire, considering the bass will be controllable from the stock head unit?

yes. you will have everything you need from the converter.

 

Wooord. So if I go this route then I'll be able to control the bass level from the radio, right?

This job is essentially easier than wiring up an amp to an aftermarket deck... I must say, I thought it would be hell.

Although there is still the fitment issue for the subwoofer. Not sure how the hell I'm gonna get this thing to fit right.

 

I just spent 5 minutes slappin' together a wiring diagram in MS Paint.

Is this correct?

 

you got it! and yes your sub control will work great from the radio. I think you would do a great deal better if you install a box ins ted of the free air. JMO air space plays a big roll in bass performance resonating is the key. I have a 10" JL audio w6 in a sealed box with a mono block alpine 350w amp. that's all I need and people think I have 2, 12"s. I understand if weights the issue but it is night and day from free air to a box. post some pics when you get it done I would like to see that sub. good luck

 

Decided to go with a sealed box and subwoofer instead. Too much of a hassle to use that open air sub. Decided to snag one of those new 10" Kenwood subwoofers. For the price and specs, you can't go wrong, and Kenwood makes nice ****. Already have a nice 450 RMS (bridged) amplifier that I'm using. KAC-7201 is the part number. Should do the job nicely.

http://www.crutchfield.com/App...W2511

I'll post pics of the setup when it's done. Should be later today if I can figure out which wires to use from the LOC.

 

in regards to your diagram...the remote wire has to come from the deck to the amp...not from the amp to the LOC. All the LOC does is transfer signal, it has no power at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FBPSidan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in regards to your diagram...the remote wire has to come from the deck to the amp...not from the amp to the LOC. All the LOC does is transfer signal, it has no power at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I could run the remote wire from the 7.5a accessory fuse as well, correct? (would be upgraded to 10a) I don't feel like dabbling behind my center console just yet... popping off the required panels on the interior of the car is going to cause me enough anxiety as it is. lol.

I've done stereo installs a million times over, but not with a stock head unit. And they were mostly just repetitive hack jobs on my EK. Not looking to do a hack job on the '08.

 

well if you arent wanting to do a hack job than tap into the ignition wire under the steering wheel, its maaaaad easy. Just my dos pesos

 

my remote is wired to the fuse for my head unit and 4 the rcas i got this thing from circuit city it was like 25 bux

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nighthawk R18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay, i may have done too much, but i sincerely hope this helps you

along the way i removed the drive seat belt and B pillar pannel to run the power/remote turn on wire easily. i also removed my back seat to make the running wire easier. under the backseat is where i tucked all the wires



remove the screw and deadpedal. pull (purple) towards the center console to remove the tabs. then UP to relieve the clips. pannel popper recommended. pannel surrounding the hood latch also has to be removed for easier tucking


blue and red represent power and remote turn on (everything tucked)




i pinch the remote turn on wire to fuse 35. upped the factory 7.5 amp fuse to a 10 amp.



zoomed out.



engine bay tuckage



set the fuse there.



power wire leading to grommet.



about 8 inches west of the brake booster, there is a squarish rectangularish rubber grommet, i ran the power wire through there. a snake would be helpful.



zoomed out.



as for the RCA wire, i cut off the 2 male connector pieces, stripped them and "T-Tapped" the positive negative to my rear right speaker.

all wires are tucked under the backseat.



annnd just for kicks
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Thanks for that, Nighthawk. I saw that other thread.

Finished it yesterday. Started at 6 PM and ended at 10 PM. I must say that was more of a bitch than I thought it was going to be... Ended up drilling through the firewall, and hooked up remote to the ignition wire in the steering column

I don't have a camera on me right now but I'll post up pics of the setup whenever I can. It sounds nice, gives me that little extra bump that I was looking for, without being too much.

Only issue is the box that the subwoofer is in... I have to replace one of the terminals that broke off when the box was resting on them (stupid me for setting it that way ). Right now I have just straight wires going right from the sub to the amp, and the line feeds through the terminal mount on the box, so there's a bit of air getting through. It will sound much nicer once I fix that, after work today.

edit: also thinking of bridging the connection for slightly more power. it's running off of one channel right now.

 

wow that took a long time lol. but props on DIYing it.

birdged is most def. better

did you have trouble finding the rubber grommet in the firewall? or just had no way of running wires through it, i imagine the K series being a whole lot bigger than the R18.

lemme know if you ever wanna upgrade your sub

 

I found the grommet, but after an hour or so of just fiddling with it, trying to get the wire through, I said "expletive IT!!" and just drilled (a little bit above and to the left of the clutch pedal).

I had to also take the airbox out during installation...

Oh and the panels are much easier to pop out in the newer Civics for some reason... it was harder on my EK believe it or not. Everything went back together perfectly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nighthawk R18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


</TD></TR></TABLE>



rookie install. Wires everywhere, lack of wire loom, fusebox remote wire, hanging fuse holder, and no zip ties.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondamanforlife &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you never run speaker wires and RCA's next to you power wire. you will get noise from the current of you're alternator. good luck!</TD></TR></TABLE>

FALSE, power wire is running of DC current while speaker wires and RCAs run off of AC current. Car audio myth.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JchanFTW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

FALSE, power wire is running of DC current while speaker wires and RCAs run off of AC current. Car audio myth. </TD></TR></TABLE> it has nothing to do with AC/DC it is electrical interference.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JchanFTW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">



rookie install. Wires everywhere, lack of wire loom, fusebox remote wire, hanging fuse holder, and no zip ties. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ok, then why dont you post the "right" way to do it. instead of sitting there and hating on how i did.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nighthawk R18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ok, then why dont you post the "right" way to do it. instead of sitting there and hating on how i did.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I couldn't because you would get into my car and have no trace of a audio install. You could pull the hood latch, and you still wouldn't notice anything out of the ordinary, but you would be missing a lot. Not only do I own speakers that you probably never even heard of, but everything I put into my car is hand built and installed.











I didn't say it was a terrible install. In fact, I commend you for doing it yourself. I know a lot of people that would rather pay some stranger to mess with your car. Those install places do hack jobs, I would never hand my keys over to anyone unless I had to.

 

I built the box too.

 

Sorry, but the box is REALLY nothing to be proud of. In fact, it's ugly as hell and it's way too big for just one sub, unless there's another sub on the other side of the box, and that's just dumb too.

 

Yeah, so I bridged it and fixed the terminal mount on the box. Thing slams really nicely now. I got the gain all the way down on the amp and my bass set to -6, amp is set to like 70Hz... no bass boost. Thing is crazy for $90.