I get a pull to the right when I throttle it in 3rd on the highway.

GSR tranny w/Quaife, Mugen suspension bushing set w/Mugen engine mounts, cornerweighted prior to the cage install (potential issue), presently on PIC R3 suspension with something like maybe 1/8" total toe up front and 0 in the back.

Suggestions?

 

Turn down the boost?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bradstard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Turn down the boost?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not an answer I was looking for, since it's only 15 psi and there's no adjustable boost controller (by design).

Motons go on 1/30 at Piper's with adj. front upper arms (Skunk 2 Pro +).
I'll have them look for loose stuff at that time when the alignment and cornerweighting is re-done.

 

LOL Brad.

I think it's worth a shot Ed, those mated with the Mugen engine mounts will be unbelievably solid.

I say get your car re-corner weighted first, make sure the alignment is perfect, if you still get a pull to the right then go for it. IMO they're good to have anyway.

 

I've got some oil cooler lines running along the radiator support as well as a remote oil filter right up there, so it looks like a little re-do for the "bars" after the suspension install.

Oh well, I'll be done spending money on it shortly ... and finally start driving it a bit soon.

 

I wish I could say I was done spending money on it shortly. I don't care though, it's fun to me, and have lots of crazy ideas...

 

I didn't say I'd be finished paying for it, just that the build should be finished soon (after the splitter and brake ducting), for the time being.

 

Ed - Not sure if it's the case with the DC2 version, but on my Full Race traction bar set-up the radiator support bar hangs lower than the actual support. This could present a present a problem when trying to fit a splitter. Not the best picture but gives you and idea. I can get you a front view of the car is you want to see it better.

 

Thanks for the pics.

Splitter et al. will be a bit lower than those things, though the other night I was thinking of how much actual clearance I should build into the gap between it and the pavement.

I'll deal with that stuff after the suspension install.
One thing at a time ...

 

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/503605/3

 

You need more boost to even everything out

 

After getting a traction bar you won't drive with out one!

Night and day difference on my car.

 

Too bad L-Con stopping make their traction bars

 

What type of sway bar do have upfront? If it is stock ITR, I would suggest upgrading from that. Ed, can you post your alignment specifications inluding camber and caster?

 

Mugen front, 32mm ASR rear, Mugen suspension bushings, 1/8" total toe out, 0 toe in the rear.

Now that I'm typing this out I do recall that the right side front camber was probably + 0.7 degrees and the left at - 0.7 degrees. This was the best the shop could do for the alignment after the cornerweighting.

So, as mentioned above, I've got some front camber adjustment that will be installed along with the new shocks, F & R bearings, and ARP studs.

summary ... I'm pretty sure the present camber issues aren't helping any, but that a nice set of tractin bars would help keep the front in tack under load.

 

It's torque steer.

You have a boosted B-Series, it comes with the territory... Then again, I'm not entirely clear on what kind of pulling it is, so it might be an alignment/suspension problem.

But 15psi on a B-Series, with a decent sized turbo (As I remember you having), will cause torque steer regardless... Unless you somehow engineered equal length axles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GO-FIGHT-KILL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But 15psi on a B-Series, with a decent sized turbo (As I remember you having), will cause torque steer regardless... Unless you somehow engineered equal length axles. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, I understand.
Note that I was trying to see what the motor would do in 3rd on the highway at about 55 mph (~4000 rpm), with a full stomp on the throttle, since at that same vehicle speed in 5th I'm only doing ~2500 rpm and only get ~2.5 psi (yeah, the turbo is sized for the top end of the rev range).


I think some of it is probably the uneven camber up front (soon to be remedied), and traction bars couldn't hurt ...


Modified by Zygspeed at 11:51 AM 1/13/2008

 

I remember some old threads in the Road Racing/Auto-x forum discussing the use of traction bars on a road course, and the end result being that you wouldnt want to have them on a track car, but then again I could be wrong. This is if you still intend on tracking the car. IMO I would never buy/use any brand of traction bars.

Heres some threads on it:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=940859

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1202148

 

I'll look at the links, but both Jack (B18Cxr) and Don (turbo civic, mrlegoman) seem to have had good results with them, as has Rob Basso.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KOALA YUMMIES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I remember some old threads in the Road Racing/Auto-x forum discussing the use of traction bars on a road course, and the end result being that you wouldnt want to have them on a track car, but then again I could be wrong. This is if you still intend on tracking the car. IMO I would never buy/use any brand of traction bars.

Heres some threads on it:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=940859

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1202148</TD></TR></TABLE>

I honestly could care less what's in those threads, even if I posted in them.
For many years I have the Z10 traction bars with plenty of track & street miles and not one single bad thing to say. But I do have many good things to say.

HT, not always filled with good info. Don't always believe what you read here.

 

I use traction bars on my R and had them on at VIR.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
But I do have many good things to say.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Would like to hear more. I've read through threads of using that with road racing as a negative. Are you saying there neutral or positive. I have no desire to do straight line dragging aka dropping the clutch. But if these are benefical at the track I would consider them.

 

Read this http://www.full-race.com/artic...s.pdf

 

I been useing the Z10 bars on my car for many years.
they help with the wheel hop issues but i mostly felt them in the turns with a more solid feel in the front end.
The only bad part of my Z10's is the way they are pulling on the lower control arm bushings where they attach on the lower control arm, mine are split pretty good, but thats also due to several years off stresses im sure.
But read from the full race site about there attachment points compared to other bars.i personally never had or felt any binding issues but i like full races attachment point on solid bolts rather than on a rubber bushing.
Of all the traction aiding products out there, nothing beats a good set of sticky tires.

 

Ed-

Set the bars up so that the heim's are "floating" in the socket, then make sure the caster settings are "in spec".


Pre-loading the arms (either fore or aft) will yield different results.



But if these are benefical at the track I would consider them.


You will not believe the difference, a must mod for RR guys.


P.S. Full Race bar below....