PinchE NegRo

thumbup: Wuts up. Hey i just want to know which B engine would be better for my EK. I want to know from someone that has the swap so i know from someone that has expirience with these swaps. It would really hlep me out beause i'm getting the swap in a week or two and i really want to no which wou be best for my daily drven EK. i need to dicide. Thanx! V-TEC!!!!!!!

shawnhayes

Ummm. This is simple.

B18 beats B16 straight up swap easy. Unless you have plans later to "do stuff" to the motor, B18 is better stock.

Shawn

FifthGearOnline

or the hybrid section

but yea if you dont allredy have VTEC, then a straight up b18b swap will be much easier then a b16 swap

POLLO

Just get a b18c have torque and vtec and be happy.

Thank you please drive thru.

sshaikh01

before lock

ImportechPerformance

Exactly.......I just beat a b16ed 4dr ef (whatever i know its there not all ef's but just for the ease of calling em dat) he was so surprised that i wooped his *** from a rolling start of 20mph he had i,h,e and other lil bull chiet stuff....plus he had no back seats....i have a 96 4dr stripped dx w/b18c1......one word........b16 non turboed = Torqueless. he was like cool thing was he really thaught he was going to beat me...hahah one more ricer check off da list....

ps oh by me being stripped i mean no air bags, no tar/or carpet/ gutted trunk to the metal, light rotas no ps no front speakers, cf hood....and my engine is stock just header and exauhst...trust me dude it was no match for the b18c


[Modified by TheRedSkoolingBus, 10:31 PM 6/25/2002]

geckoo

Each type of engine is fine for a daily driver. You should be more specific on which engines your talking about because some b16's are better than b18's (ex: b16b > b18a or b) unless your talking about torque. In general i would say go for a b18c1 or b18c5 because they are

highschooler

None of these engines are going to be any better than the other for daily driving because they are both reliabe. Powerwise it depends on which b18 you are talking about. the b18c1 is the most powerful. You cant really compare the b18b to the b16a because they very different powerbands. If you're just interested in street driving and very little track time I would suggest the b18b because it has more torque requiring less revving, but the b16 might net you better track times if thats what you're after

Triple T

i have a b18b in my hatch and its just fine for daily driving... nice low end power and its powerful enough to get busy at a stoplight every now and again... i dont get to the high revs unless im racing. anyways i say go with the b18b or better yet b18c!!! i wish i had one of them.

Jonathan_ED3

b18b. '92 hatch. nothin stripped. i can still whoop EX's with my car fully loaded

kwil666

i would save up a bit more and get the b18c. stock for stock the b16 should win the b18 and the b18c should beat them both. or at less thats what i have seen in the real life. you really cant go wrong with the b18c. what do you want to do with the engine in the long run? are you going to leave it stock?

keith

is3oo

I don't think a b18c is worth the money unless you're building a drag racing car or something. All you need are some good cams to get the torque that the b16 lacks and spank the b18c all day long. And if you want more torque and power, then just turbo that shiet. If you add up all the costs, you'll probably end up spending a little more than for what you would of paid for a stock b18c swap. I would rather be driving a turbo b16, than a stock b18c with intake and other bullshit.

97hb

B18B

VTECVillain

I have 2 cars with both swaps (see sig.) VTEC and Non-VTEC. My 92 VX is what I drive everyday to work and occasionally race. The B18C1 is a great motor with power down low and up high. In my CRX I have an LS motor which is a really nice setup too. I went the non-VTEC route and don't regret it at all. I could've dropped a B16A in it like most people do. I had no plans for forced induction and I didn't want stuck with a car you have to rev to see any noticeable power from. If you are wanting a great daily driver, definitely go with a B18C1 if you can. If not, give the B18B some thought - Just because it's not a VTEC motor doesn't mean it sucks. If you start with that, you could always go LSVTEC later on too

ImportechPerformance

say you get ctr cams in the b16 and the guy with the b18c gets the same cams then what???
or the guy with the b18c gets it turboed as well as a b16 turbo then what???

b18c hands down...thankyou please try again.

Ricey McRicerton

not to be redundant(sp) but try a SEARCH

Eyewitness

The B16 with ctr cams is not going to whoopin on any b18c ALL day long givin they are in the same type vehicle....and turboing the b16 hurts reliablity....

B18C5-EH2

Question:

Why in the **** are you guys so worried about "having to rev just to get to the power, etc" when the motor is DESIGNED to be that way?

Do you think you're harming that motor because you rev to 8000rpms or something?

My 2 friends (brothers) both have 1992-1995 hatches.

Car number 1 is a 1994 CX with a B20Z with Skunk2 manifold and LS tranny

Car numer 2 is a 1992 DX with JDM B16A (2nd-gen, 170hp)

When they race the B16A powered hatch wins every time, and easily enough.

That should tell you something about a B16A swap vs. an LS swap since the B20 is supposed to be the "torque monster y0!" and even better than the LS motor.

B16A would be better/quicker than the B18B swap. This is STOCK though.

If you're the kind of guy who can either do some motor work or pay to have it done, then I might suggest this:

B18B swap
Crower 403 cams and valvetrain
All normal bolt-ons


This combo combined with a mildly ported LS head provided the owner with 151whp and 136lb/ft. of torque!

That's better than my old B18C1 for sure, and the powerband was very nice and flat.

If you can't do that though, just get the B16A and drive the damn car. Personally i'd get a B18C1 if that was what you meant in the first place, because stock for stock the B18C1 will eat up the B16A.

How would I know this?

Because I've had a B16A2 swap (still got it in my girl's hatch), B18C1 swap (sold for ITR swap) and the B18C5 swap all in the same 1992 Civic Si hatchback.

In every concievable situation the B18C1 romped the B16A2 handily.

The B18C5 is another story

owen_the_soyboy

B18 is superior because of torque.

no question.

I have had my B18C in my hatch for a few weeks now, it is just incredible.

B18C5-EH2

Owen I know you had great success with your Cx motor in auto-X, so how does the added weight of the B-Series up front affect handling?

...and can you get FTD at your local events?

Timmayeg

i love my b16 swap with just bolt ons it is very quick
my buddy has a 93 DX coupe 2150 lbs with LS motor, mine weighs 2300 with b16 both are with 1/2 tank of gas minus passangers and he has same bolts ons then me from a dead stop i whoop him if we do a roll and im not in vtec he will pull me till i hit vtec them once again i beat him, he does have a better weight and torque advantage over me but i still win
i have also beat hatchbacks with gsr motor with minor bolt ons from a roll and a dead stop

is3oo

I never said the b16 was faster. I said for the amount of money put in the b18c, you could make your b16 faster. You didn't get my point buddy.

I mean ofcourse if you put cams in the b16 and b18c, the b18c is gonna be faster.

And a turbo b16 is VERY reliable, so i don't know what you're talking about there.

is3oo

A b16 with good cams will smoke a stock GSR all day long. And you would spent alot more $ for the stock GSR swap than the b16 swap with cams.

B18C5-EH2

I would love to see identical cars race with the following engines:

B18C1

B16B

Type R cams in a B16A isn't going to do **** on a GS-R swap. I'll bet that a full-blown B16B wouldn't even be able to beat a B18C1 swap.

Before you go apeshit on me, realize that I still have a B16A2 swap in my fiancee's car, so I'm not hating on the B16A - I'm just being realistic.

vtecvoodoo

I`ve driven an eg w/ a b16 b and it wasn`t very impressive. Go 1.8 or go home