This is a 1990 Honda CRX SI

Ok, basically I just replaced my outer tie rod ends and found out that the outter tie rod end is connected to a piece with a dustboot thats cracked and has grease coming out of it.

EDIT: My question is, is the inner tie rod end the thing under the dust boot thats torn up? Because when i try to buy the inner tie rod end, it doesn't come with that long dust boot, so i'm pondering if thats it or not.

Let me know whats up


Modified by RanCRX at 5:16 PM 9/10/2007

 

#25/27 are the outer tie rods.

are you talking about #26 that is cracked and leaking grease?

thats the balljoint boot. at this point, id replace the whole outer tie rod, it comes with a new balljoint boot. you cant replace the balljoint separately, just get the whole tie rod end.

#20 is the INNER tie rod. its inside those accordian boots. they can go bad as well.

if the accordian boots are torn, then most likely you need to rebuild and replace the steering rack end bushing. thats #10. replacing that and adjusting the gear box screw, #3, is pretty much as complete of a steering rack rebuild as possible.

 

.....

I already replaced both outer tie rod ends.

Was talking about #23/24. The dust boot. The outer tie rod end hooks up to a rod that hides under that dustboot, which is the toe alignment thing.

So basically is that alignment thing under 23/24 the inner tie rod?

I'm not a very good explainer but basically whatever is under 23/24 dust boot, is open due to the dustboot being cracked open and its a little greasy in there.

Not that theres grease pouring out of there, my mistake for over exggerating.


BTW, I balanced tires, rotors need to be replaced. But I recently turned them on the lathe machine and were cut good and non-directional.

I heard either inner tie rods or rack end bushing would cause the steering wheel to still shake if I replaced both outer tie rod ends. Only shakes at high speeds.

Also they're both cracked open on driver and passenger side. I need to replace them both

 

yes, then its #20 (same on both sides), the inner tie rod youre talking about.

im confident you would benefit from replacing the rack end bushing.

problem is that the labor is the hardest part, best to drop the whole rack, compared to the cost of the part, about $10.

all questions are answered in this thread.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1117870

dont forget to adjust the gearbox.

 

i have the same problem with the wheel shaking at higher speeds. i am going to replace my inners (already did outers) and that rack end bushing.
the inner is inside of that boot you are talking about. in other words 20 is inside 23/24.

 

how and why do you adjust the gear box?

 

the rack end bushing keeps the passenger side of the rack tight.

the gearbox spring keeps the driver side of the rack tight.

 

Where would I be able to buy a rack end bushing, autozone doesn't sell it here.

Ebay?

And thank you very much for the info, extremely helpful for sure

 

only dealer. or online dealers.

 

Also the dust boot 23/24?

 

i dont buy parts for my honda at autozone. only honda.

 

The "long boot" is called a bellows boot and you need those on there to keep the rack/inner tierod free of dirt and debris inside. Keep in mind there is a different part number for the left and right boots.

Make sure you get the inner tierods really tight and use loctite and properly install the locking washers if it comes with them. I recommend putting in inner tierods with an inner tirerod tool kit that lets you use your impact gun to loosen/tighten them because they can and WILL come loose if they aren't tight enough.

To adjust the rack loosen the large locknut on the rack and turn the bolt inside of that. Be sure not to overtighten as this will cause damage.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coot_er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have the same problem with the wheel shaking at higher speeds. i am going to replace my inners (already did outers) and that rack end bushing.
the inner is inside of that boot you are talking about. in other words 20 is inside 23/24.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Make sure to check your wheel bearings too. Jack up the car and check for up and down play in the wheel. Also this may sound stupid, but don't rule out your tires being out of balance if you are experiencing "wheel shaking" at 60-70mph+

 

When replacing the rack end bushing, is there anything else I would need to replace? Any lucknut screws or ect?

Cause if I can just replace the bushing that would be cool, less hassle, but if I have to replace alot of stuff on the steering rack just to replace the bushings, you think you can give me a parts list lol

 

Couple zip ties to secure the bellows boot back on Make sure that your inner/outer tierods do not have any play because you might as well replace them while you have everything torn down. Also, be sure to get your car realigned afterwords.

 

Just a question, how big are the INNER tie rod ends suppose to be?

I got one about close to 12in.

I say around 6-10in.

Does that sound about right?

They also have the number TR-217 on them. I bought them as a pair, and they're both the same size. Just pondering if the inner tie rod ends are the same size on drivers and passenger?

Let me know whats up!


Modified by RanCRX at 9:52 PM 9/18/2007

 

Yes, they are long and yes they are the same on both sides. Only the outer tierod ends are different for either side, the inner tierods are the same.

 

My inner tie rods are messed up and I don't want to spend money taking it to a shop.. how hard is it to change the inner tie rods? Are there any special tools I need to rent? Would you happen to have a how to? I've changed outers but don't know much about the inners... please help.. thanks

PS I have power steering.. does that matter when changing the inner tie rods?