I have never used the bleeder valve before and I would love to ditch the little valve and insert an -AN fitting in there to run a colant like to my oil/water cooler gt30r. Some people have said that this should not be done, and im just trying to figure out why? I was thinking of enlarging the hole slightly to allow for more coolant flow.

what do you guys think?

 

you can

 

And if you do so, you'll need a 4' wide drain pan when you need to drain your coolant.

Get a -6 aluminum weld-on. Much cleaner, and less messy

 

could i use that big coolant drain bolt on the front of the head for the return coolant line?? So from the bleeder valve from the bleeder valve to the turbe, then from the turbo to the coolant drain bolt on the head??

 

Use the plug on the front of the block, about 5" to the left from the dipstick.

 

what size -AN lines should i run?? Does it really matter?

 

-6 is more than sufficient. If you'd like, I have all the part numbers needed, PM me if you want me to foward them to you

 

I'd like to see a pic of this arrangment. I think it would look much cleaner than most installs of a water cooled turbo.

 

Here are some pictures:

For Reference

#1 is the feed off the block, #2 is the feed into the cartridge
#3 is the return off the cartridge, #4 is the return to the radiator.

 

Can my return line(#4) can be plugged into my coolant bleeder valve? I would rather rather use the bleeder valve then tap into my radiator.....thanks for the delp addict.

 

You could do it, however I really would advise you to just have a weld-on fitting added to the radiator.

 

that looks very clean good job

 

Thanks

If I can find some time this week, it may actually be done

 

Why would a weld on fitting to the radiator be better?? would the bleeder valve not flow enough??

 

on that setup, is there enough pressure for the coolant to actually goes up to the turbo and comes out and into the radiator? thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by V-SPEC 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on that setup, is there enough pressure for the coolant to actually goes up to the turbo and comes out and into the radiator? thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the way 1320addict is doin it is prob the best i have seen it is goin with the water flow and doing the same as the upper radiator hose. except is getting water right after the water pump before it sees the head. great way to run it.

 

1320 how did you get that on the drain plug???

 

huh?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xsi-t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1320 how did you get that on the drain plug???</TD></TR></TABLE>
Take out the drin plug, tap it to 1/4npt, then install a 1/4npt to -6 or -8 an adapter.
Do NOT tap it while the plug is in the block! This was a junk block and was not re-used. (pic borrowed from abnaasefmb)


Or you can buy this fitting from honda and go the much less expencieve route and just clamp your hose on. (I believe this fits but don't quote me on that, check first)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Take out the drin plug, tap it to 1/4npt, then install a 1/4npt to -6 or -8 an adapter.
Do NOT tap it while the plug is in the block! This was a junk block and was not re-used. (pic borrowed from abnaasefmb)


Or you can buy this fitting from honda and go the much less expencieve route and just clamp your hose on. (I believe this fits but don't quote me on that, check first)
</TD></TR></TABLE>Nice man thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by V-SPEC 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on that setup, is there enough pressure for the coolant to actually goes up to the turbo and comes out and into the radiator? thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats really the million dollar question. Do you people realize that there is very little pressure drop between the bleed plug and drain plug? If you don't have a pressure differential, then water won't move. The pressure drop from the fittings, tubes, and turbo passages has to be greater than that pressure differential between the two water taps. I've actually considered drilling a hole behind the water pump (into the block), and tapping a 1/8" or larger fitting to get coolant directly after it leaves the pump fins. Its mainly for increased flow (highest pressure at that point), not because its much cooler.

IMO the best spot besides that for the supply is the drain plug, and for the return it would be as close to the pump inlet as possible. The FITV hose would be best (bypasses t-stat for just the turbo), or any hose that goes to the t-stat inlet cover.

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by V-SPEC 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on that setup, is there enough pressure for the coolant to actually goes up to the turbo and comes out and into the radiator? thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bump for an answer to this question!

 

I used the bleeder valve. I drilled and tapped it for a fitting I got from Stan@Fastturbo. I run a -6 line from there to the turbo. Then I have another fitting welded to the bottom of my radiator tank for the other -6 line. Seems to be working, but I did notice my temps go up about 8-10 degrees.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BodyKits NW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used the bleeder valve. I drilled and tapped it for a fitting I got from Stan@Fastturbo. I run a -6 line from there to the turbo. Then I have another fitting welded to the bottom of my radiator tank for the other -6 line. Seems to be working, but I did notice my temps go up about 8-10 degrees.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm okay with using the bleeder valve as a return for the coolant, but am wanting to know if anyone has first hand experience with the flow results of the setup mentioned below.

BTW instead of tapping and messing with the bleeder port, you can use one of our water port adapters (for the D series only, so far.). Here is a pic...



You can use it to install a water return, and a water temp sensor, and still have the stock bleeder.

Anyone have an answer for how much flow you get with the setup mentioned earlier?

Craig