I've been fighting a problem for 3+ months with my swap, have spent thousands of dollars, countless hours and still have not gotten resolution.

if you have your car w/o axles or are changing axles, before you put them in, can you measure for me the distance from the diff seal to the back of the wheel hub (inner surface on hub where the axles sits) on the passenger side, and also from the seal on the intermediate shaft bearing support to the driver's side hub?

If you do this, please do it with the car suspension loaded, like, with jackstands and a jack under each side tire jacking up the suspension right until the body starts to move and the vehicle's weight makes the suspension compressed, or, even better, on a rack lift ; )

thanks SO much to anyone who helps me with this!!!

BTW, my measurements were 19.5" on both sides...


Modified by builthatch at 12:59 AM 8/11/2007

 

up

 

whats the actual problem

 

http://members.aol.com/builthatch609/carprob.doc

that says-

Car:
JDM obd2 b18c from HMO swapped in ’97 hatch with GSR LSD transmission

Issue:
shudder/vibration during acceleration, especially in 2nd and 3rd gears under light or moderate throttle angles (10%-30%) and low to mid RPM (2000-4500). This occurs during straight acceleration and turning acceleration. Shudder can be felt in the seat, pedals, floorboard, and mirrors, and slightly in the steering wheel. Vibration can’t be felt that much during first gear acceleration

Parts changed:
3 sets of reman GSR axles, settled on a brand new set of 99-00 Si axles
Brand new intermediate shaft assembly, including brand new support, shaft, bearing, seal
New Falken Azenis 615 tires, mounted and balanced with no issue
Engine mounts used were ones previously used with my single cam engines which exhibited no such problems over the past 9 years, only added brand new 99-00 Si rear t-bracket and driver’s side engine-side bracket to allow swap fitment. Mounts have urethane inserts.
Am using a ’97 CRV ac bracket to keep stock a/c system intact and using stock torque mount for that
New upper a-arms with new ball joints
New inner tie rod ends
New outer tie rod ends
New lower ball joints
Car has perfect fresh 4 wheel alignment
Replaced HMO JDM GSR LSD transmission with another from HMO
Hub bearings exhibit no play and are 100%
Clutch is brand new Exedy unit, as is flywheel
Added Ingalls “Stiffy” engine damper to help handle the load for the notoriously lame EK driver’s side mount

Addl info:
When car is raised via coilovers, especially after 8 turns, the issue practically disappears
Shifting action is perfect

i've deduced that for some reason it still is the axles for some reason, so i need these measurements to see if there is anything strange about the distance of my spacing vs. someone else's with a similar setup.

 

i dont have a car to measure, but i have the same problem with my 92 hatch and lsvtec swap. same exact symptoms youve described, shuddering from around 2500 to 3500 light to moderate throttle.

ive replaced the rims and tires, upper control arms, axles and it hasnt helped.


bump for more help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont have a car to measure, but i have the same problem with my 92 hatch and lsvtec swap. same exact symptoms youve described, shuddering from around 2500 to 3500 light to moderate throttle.

ive replaced the rims and tires, upper control arms, axles and it hasnt helped.

bump for more help </TD></TR></TABLE>

let's talk. do you use AIM?