Hey guys, my camber kit is only, err, 4 months old. If that? Check the dust boot around the ball joint. Mine was cracked about 1/3 of the way through, and it didn't look like it was gonna last much longer, so I replaced it with a polyurethane one that I happened to have.

I had to take the spindles off to get one bearing replaced and when I did, I found out that the last person to service it didn't put a bearing retaining clip in. ARGH. Trying to kill me!? It hasn't moved, but still... So at any rate, I am going to check the other side, at the risk of seperating that bearing.

Warren

 

So the ball joint skunk uses on their kits sucks *** huh?

Craig - Who has had one to many tonight

 

The ball joint seems fine, but the boot sucks ***. I mean, come on, it's not even the lower one which is exposed to higher temps.

Warren

 

I guess the Civic one will have to do for now.

Will

 

Get the King kit

 

Dude, the King kit is just Skunk2 arms.

Warren

 

That wasn't always the case. For a while, the King pieces were slightly different from Skunks, and they had them available for a while (a year or so) before Skunk came out with theirs. Then later, it sounded like King started shipping the Skunk pieces when they ran out of stock on their own. Now, they seem to be the same thing, which is not such a bad thing if the Skunk pieces are good.

 

actually King's old black camber kits were Z.Speed, which IS what Skunk2 used to be... both are importer/distributed by Group-A.

Z.Speed = Skunk2.

 

If that's the case Frank...what are the chances of the MC brace being imported? I know that there are a few people that have given up and have produced their own.
Austin

 

Dude, use loc-tite and have OEM joints pressed in!

LOL - I have an older set and I compared them to a friend's newer skunk set. They are much different. My bad I didn't realize that there was a 3rd party involved ala Z-Speed.

Clayton - who's tail is now between his legs...

 

they're different because the newer skunk2 has different angle for better chassis clearence as well as more adjustment range. i thought warren has some big issues but honestly a torn booth is... not much to sneeze at.

 

Fascinating discussion of the geneology of camber kits....

The coolest ones I ever saw were the ones on Michael Galati's ITR when he won the SVWC championship as a privateer. The entire control arm looked like a machined billet steel piece, with a massive carrier for the ball joint. I even inquired with DC Sports on if they would fabricate them for me, but the person who answered the phone blew me off. I have it on video, although my video camera broke so I can't play the tape anymore.

 

No, it's not a major problem, but if the boot goes, and you prematurely wear out the ball joint, then you'll be really pissed.

Not a big deal for me since I had a bushings kit which included a poly boot. No way it's gonna rip now

Warren

 

it's a race car right? so it should get a quick look-over before each race ideally. any idea why the boot got torn (just straight crappy boot??) ? it really shouldn't gone bad so fast...

are you putting those energy suspension ball joint things? don't those have problem holding grease?

 

It wasn't torn all the way through, yet. It's just a thin rubber boot, and it's in a spot that gets squished a lot. I didn't abuse it with a pickle fork or anything if that's what you're asking.

Yeah, I'm running the ES boots. I've had one on the bottom for some time now, and it has held grease just fine, even through water. I thought they were pretty crappy at first since you can't wrap them down to stay in place, but when you assemble the suspension, they make a nice tight fit around the base and taper of the ball joint, and it's just as tight as stock. These are REALLY beefy boots, and there's no way one of these babies is going to tear.

Warren