This is a How-To for a forced induction catch can to be used mainly on an EF, but I guess it can be applied elsewhere. This is also for a D16A6, not sure if other engines use the same "black box" or not.

<u>Materials from Home Depot:</u>

- (x1) 10 ft. length of braided vinyl tubing (3/4" outside diameter x 1/2" inside diameter) &lt;--- Homedepot only sold this in 10 ft. lengths.



- (x3) I.D. Hose Barb to MIP adapter (1/2" x 1/2") &lt;--- I am sure that bulkhead fittings would work better in this situation, but I couldn't find any at the time, plus this is a budget build.



<u>Materials from NAPA:</u>

- (x1) APC intake breather



- (x1) VersaChem Plastic Welding system. &lt;--- I chose this because it said "Perfect for bonding plastic to metal." right on the package.



<u>Materials from junkyard or your random parts pile:</u>

- EF Coolant overflow reservoir



<u>Costs:</u>

Braided Hose: $11
Fittings: $7.50
Overflow reservoir: $4.25 from local junkyard.
APC breather: $10
Plastic Weld: $5

<FONT SIZE="3"><u>Total Cost: $37.75</u></FONT>

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HOW TO:


1) Begin by cleaning the coolant overflow reservoir. Mine was completely filled with mold, gunk, and old nasty coolant. You don't really want that in your catch can.

Remove the lid and throw away that rubber hose and 90 degree nipple that is stuck to it. You won't need that.

I filled the catch can 1/2 full with bleach and 1/2 full with water and let it soak for a few hours. Then just scrub away with a brush small enough to fit in it. (Simple Green does wonders as well.)

2) Drill two holes in the catch can for the fittings.

The reason why I even chose to use an EF coolant overflow reservoir in the first place is because of ease of mounting it. If you're like me and removed your charcoal canister to allow more space in the engine bay, then the reservoir fits perfectly in it's place! It's a perfect mounting location.

You will want to drill the holes in a spot that won't interfere with mounting or cause a kink in the hose.

I chose to drill here:



Choose a drill bit that is only just smaller than the diameter of the threaded part of the barb. When you push the barb into the catch can, it should be a really tight fit.

If you are using the exact same fittings that I did, use a 3/4" hole saw. It's PERFECT. The fitting basically threads itself in. I used a wrench and just tightened it down.







3) Drill a hole in the lid for the breather filter.

Remove the stock elbow off of the lid, and, using the same drill bit as before, drill a hole in the lid and screw the fitting in.




4) Seal all the fittings.

Take the Plastic Weld and mix a liberal amount on a piece of cardboard. Apply it inside and out all around the fitting. Don't be shy with it! Also, to get a really good seal, put some on the threads of the fitting before you screw it in the drilled hole.

5) Install the breather element.

Simply shove the breather filter onto the barb to let the catch can breathe.



6) Remove the stock PCV system.

Remove the stock PCV valve and the hoses that go along with it. It is pictured here:




There is one hose that goes to the intake manifold. Just plug the nipple on the intake manifold with a screw or with a vacuum plug. It is the middle hose pictured here:



The other hose goes to the "black box" on the backside of the engine. The "black box" is where your crankcase actually breathes from. If you were to take it off, you can see the hole in the crankcase. Leave the box on as we will actually use it in the catch can, but remove the hose on the nipple of the "black box."



You can see the nipple on the left hand side of the picture.

7) Run the hoses.

Stick the catch can in the charcoal canister slot or wherever you want it, and then run a length of vinyl braided hose coming from the stock valve cover nipple to one of the fittings.

Run another length of braided vinyl hose from the nipple on the "black box" to the other fitting in the catch can.

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That's it! It may look somewhat goofy and it may not be quite as effective as an expensive Endyn setup or a vacuum assisted system, but it it extremely cheap and easy to use. Another nice thing about it is that since the reservoir is clear, you can see when it is filling up and empty it. Simply unscrew the lid and empty it out!

 

i love cheap *** mods that work.

 

Kool There are so many diffrent types of homemade catch cans i love it haha. Good job though, seems effective.

 

nevermind, i get it now.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">6) Remove the stock PCV system.

Remove the stock PCV valve and the hoses that go along with it.

There is one hose that goes to the intake manifold. Just plug the nipple on the intake manifold with a screw or with a vacuum plug. It is the middle hose pictured here:

The other hose goes to the "black box" on the backside of the engine. The "black box" is where your crankcase actually breathes from. If you were to take it off, you can see the hole in the crankcase. Leave the box on as we will actually use it in the catch can, but remove the hose on the nipple of the "black box."

7) Run the hoses.
HOSE 1
Stick the catch can in the charcoal canister slot or wherever you want it, and then run a length of vinyl braided hose coming from the stock valve cover nipple to one of the fittings.

HOSE 2
Run another length of braided vinyl hose from the nipple on the "black box" to the other fitting in the catch can.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree with this setup. dont forget to plug the nipple on the intake pipe.


i dont know why you set the fittings vertically apart tho. why not just place them next to each other at the same level.... the lowest fitting is now your max fill height.

 

Like this.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont forget to plug the nipple on the intake pipe.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you're using this with a naturally aspirated setup, then yes. Most turbo setups won't have this.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont know why you set the fittings vertically apart tho. why not just place them next to each other at the same level.... the lowest fitting is now your max fill height.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol, I hope the level never reaches the lower barb! That would be alot!

If it did, however, it is extremely easy to drain thanks to the lid being "unscrewable." One could also add a little drain fitting on the bottom should they wish.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i dont know why you set the fittings vertically apart tho. why not just place them next to each other at the same level.... the lowest fitting is now your max fill height.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i thought that too. but just figured it was his first try and didnt think about it. either way, it still works. whats an inch in fill height anyway? if he had that much oil in there anyway, he'd probably dump it.

 

awesome, one of many homemade catch cans

 

nice diy!!! should make a sticky...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18c5CivicSiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">awesome, one of many homemade catch cans </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup, you can make the can out of just about anything that can take the heat of an engine bay. The reason why I went with the coolant reservoir is:

A) Ease of mounting. The stock charcoal canister slot is pretty much the perfect location to mount the catch can, and it just so happens that the mounting tab is the same! It bolts right in.

B) Thick materials. The reservoir is made of very thick plastic which made threading the barbs in very easy. If something thin was used, then it would be more difficult and flimsy.

C) Removable top/filter. The lid of the reservoir made for an easy way to drain the catch can. Also, the lid is very thick and flat, allowing the breather barb to be easily mounted.

D) Cheap as ****. These things are cheap as **** and everyone has a couple just laying around with nothing to do with them.

 

2nd gen civic radiator can is perfect. tall and has the molded fitting to fit like stock.



(did you think you were the first to do this tippy? )

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2nd gen civic radiator can is perfect. tall and has the molded fitting to fit like stock.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Looks good to me!

 

Thats ballin! haha.

 

That **** off the hook man am going to do that to hatch

 

i have a greddy can laying around. i'm going to weld a fitting on the top and run it just like this

i'm going to weld in a bracket like the stock coolant reservoir so it slides right in

awesome job tippy

 

I prefer my setup. Eliminates that crappy black PCV box.

For B series engines, buy 2 Honda power steering hose nipples and washers (should be same as the stock ones found behind the 2 plugs in the back of the block, so you might not need them - can't remember). Remove the 2 plugs from the back of the block. Take out the PCV box, buy a freeze plug and rtv the hole where the box used to be. Also plug up the hole at the top or remove the stock nipple and plug it.

Buy a length of hose from Home Depot, cut in two. Run the hoses into a dogfood can stuffed with Lufa (sp). Congrats, you have 2 block vents and no recycled crank case emissions. This works really for boosted guys since the stock PCV system is hardly adequate for venting pressure and vapour in boosted setups.




Modified by Malgerus at 10:59 PM 5/29/2007


Modified by Malgerus at 12:15 AM 5/30/2007