Projekt 2.0Si - Write-Up Part 1: Cylinder Head Removal
(EDIT: MODS - Maybe this can go in that archive at the top? Just trying to be contributive.)
Alright, I'm beginning a small piece of my Projekt 2.0Si write-up today, and that being said, would like to go ahead and chronicle what we have gone ahead and done so far. First off, I would like to begin with the statement that I see no reason that anyone with the correct tools, common sense, and some muscle, cannot do a motor swap in any Honda, period.
For the beginning of my article, which will go over the cylinder head removal, I'll go ahead and go over which tools I've used so far, which, isn't much.
Also, before I get any questions, this was a head removal on a B16A2.
Tools Used:
10mm, 11mm, 12mm Wrenchs
Metric Socket Set (Mainly used 10mm, 12mm, 14mm)
Wretchet
Flat-Head Screwdriver
Phillips Screwdriver
Cheater Bar
Exstension
Removal Time:
Roughly 3 Hours
(More or Less depending on how thoroughly you are labeling bolts and parts)
(Also, this is an EM1)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Here is what I started with, please don't flame for the overspray on and around the head, a buddy of mine wanted to try to paint my valve cover...On the car. XD

1) First things I did were to go ahead and remove the intake piping to free up space.

2) Next I went ahead and began unplugging the wires and sensors.

3) It'd probably be a good idea here to jack up the car, drain your coolant, and relieve your fuel pressure.

(For coolant, undo the wing nut on the bottom of your radiator, also, make sure you have a drain pan available for this)
(For fuel, I just undo my gas cap and loosen the banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter with a rag over it, if there is an easier way, be sure to let me know so I can add it)
(Also undo any fuel lines connected to the fuel rail)

4) After getting ALL the wiring undone that was connected to the head (or rather, motor in general for me), I decided it would be much more simple to remove the head with the intake manifold still attached, so I left it alone.
5) Make sure you undo the wiring off the alternator.

6) As well as the starter. *EDIT: Apparently this isn't necessary.*


7) I scuttled underneath the car after unbolting the bolts holding the exhaust manifold to the head and proceeded to bust the bolts on where the manifold connect to the rest of the exhaust loose.

(Caution: These bolts suck and are VERY well torqued on, as well as from constant heating and cooling, extremely difficult for me at least to get loose. I used a cheater bar and a strong friend to get them loose ^_^)
8) After removing the the exhaust manifold, do a quick check around the head to make sure there are no vaccum hoses or wiring that still need to be unplugged.
(Be sure to check BEHIND the head and the back of the intake manifold if you left it intact, I left a wire attached and ended up tearing it)
Now, I'm sure that you are supposed to drain oil and what not, but I did not do this, so that part will not be documented here until someone else wants to help me add more to the write-up.
9) Now proceed to remove the valve cover if you already haven't and the little ground screwed into it.
(A quick thought while writing, be sure to have new gaskets for everything you're removing, for the valve cover, you may not necessarily have a problem with leaking, but the exhaust manifold and head gaskets ARE NOT re-usable.)
10) Now, I was getting angry because I couldn't find my head bolts, but after some inspection, I found that I had to do a little bit of disassembly on the head to get them. Also, remove the little stabilizer on the head and the useless plate that's there.

11) I started out by removing the twenty or so bolts off the pieces that cover the cams, and undoing the bolts the hold on the distributor.

12) To remove the cams, you have to remove your timing belt before they'll come loose, so naturally, I'm sure I didn't do it the "right" way, but I just slid the belt off the cam gears.
13) Next, I pulled the covers and distributor, and then had to pry loose the other three thick covers holding the cams in.

14) After lifting out the cams, the bolts you need to undo are in the holes that the cams hid, maybe a 14mm or 15mm? Can't remember off the top of my head.
*EDIT: Be sure to remove the bolts in a three-step criss-cross pattern. Start with the outermost bolts, and work toward the middle of the head. We do this to help prevent warping while removing the head*
15) After making sure that nothing is still connected, gently begin to lift (with the help of a strong friend ^_^) the head off, if you notice anything snagging up, carefully put the head back down, and disconnect anything that is still attached, if not, then go ahead and lift off and remove the head.


All done!
----------------------------------------------------------------------
My car had pretty much blown up, so I decided to do a motor swap, after removing the head, I found that I had many more problems than I had originally thought. In the end, it came out to be:
Blown Head Gasket
Warped Head
Blown Piston 3
Blown Rings; Piston 1
Cracked Block
Just for anyone who was wondering. But no matter, thus started Projekt 2.0Si
Modified by SomedaySoon at 8:52 AM 4/3/2007
Modified by SomedaySoon at 1:27 PM 4/3/2007
Modified by SomedaySoon at 2:32 PM 4/3/2007
Alright, I'm beginning a small piece of my Projekt 2.0Si write-up today, and that being said, would like to go ahead and chronicle what we have gone ahead and done so far. First off, I would like to begin with the statement that I see no reason that anyone with the correct tools, common sense, and some muscle, cannot do a motor swap in any Honda, period.
For the beginning of my article, which will go over the cylinder head removal, I'll go ahead and go over which tools I've used so far, which, isn't much.
Also, before I get any questions, this was a head removal on a B16A2.
Tools Used:
10mm, 11mm, 12mm Wrenchs
Metric Socket Set (Mainly used 10mm, 12mm, 14mm)
Wretchet
Flat-Head Screwdriver
Phillips Screwdriver
Cheater Bar
Exstension
Removal Time:
Roughly 3 Hours
(More or Less depending on how thoroughly you are labeling bolts and parts)
(Also, this is an EM1)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Here is what I started with, please don't flame for the overspray on and around the head, a buddy of mine wanted to try to paint my valve cover...On the car. XD

1) First things I did were to go ahead and remove the intake piping to free up space.

2) Next I went ahead and began unplugging the wires and sensors.

3) It'd probably be a good idea here to jack up the car, drain your coolant, and relieve your fuel pressure.

(For coolant, undo the wing nut on the bottom of your radiator, also, make sure you have a drain pan available for this)
(For fuel, I just undo my gas cap and loosen the banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter with a rag over it, if there is an easier way, be sure to let me know so I can add it)
(Also undo any fuel lines connected to the fuel rail)

4) After getting ALL the wiring undone that was connected to the head (or rather, motor in general for me), I decided it would be much more simple to remove the head with the intake manifold still attached, so I left it alone.
5) Make sure you undo the wiring off the alternator.

6) As well as the starter. *EDIT: Apparently this isn't necessary.*


7) I scuttled underneath the car after unbolting the bolts holding the exhaust manifold to the head and proceeded to bust the bolts on where the manifold connect to the rest of the exhaust loose.

(Caution: These bolts suck and are VERY well torqued on, as well as from constant heating and cooling, extremely difficult for me at least to get loose. I used a cheater bar and a strong friend to get them loose ^_^)
8) After removing the the exhaust manifold, do a quick check around the head to make sure there are no vaccum hoses or wiring that still need to be unplugged.
(Be sure to check BEHIND the head and the back of the intake manifold if you left it intact, I left a wire attached and ended up tearing it)
Now, I'm sure that you are supposed to drain oil and what not, but I did not do this, so that part will not be documented here until someone else wants to help me add more to the write-up.
9) Now proceed to remove the valve cover if you already haven't and the little ground screwed into it.
(A quick thought while writing, be sure to have new gaskets for everything you're removing, for the valve cover, you may not necessarily have a problem with leaking, but the exhaust manifold and head gaskets ARE NOT re-usable.)
10) Now, I was getting angry because I couldn't find my head bolts, but after some inspection, I found that I had to do a little bit of disassembly on the head to get them. Also, remove the little stabilizer on the head and the useless plate that's there.

11) I started out by removing the twenty or so bolts off the pieces that cover the cams, and undoing the bolts the hold on the distributor.

12) To remove the cams, you have to remove your timing belt before they'll come loose, so naturally, I'm sure I didn't do it the "right" way, but I just slid the belt off the cam gears.
13) Next, I pulled the covers and distributor, and then had to pry loose the other three thick covers holding the cams in.

14) After lifting out the cams, the bolts you need to undo are in the holes that the cams hid, maybe a 14mm or 15mm? Can't remember off the top of my head.
*EDIT: Be sure to remove the bolts in a three-step criss-cross pattern. Start with the outermost bolts, and work toward the middle of the head. We do this to help prevent warping while removing the head*
15) After making sure that nothing is still connected, gently begin to lift (with the help of a strong friend ^_^) the head off, if you notice anything snagging up, carefully put the head back down, and disconnect anything that is still attached, if not, then go ahead and lift off and remove the head.


All done!
----------------------------------------------------------------------
My car had pretty much blown up, so I decided to do a motor swap, after removing the head, I found that I had many more problems than I had originally thought. In the end, it came out to be:
Blown Head Gasket
Warped Head
Blown Piston 3
Blown Rings; Piston 1
Cracked Block
Just for anyone who was wondering. But no matter, thus started Projekt 2.0Si

Modified by SomedaySoon at 8:52 AM 4/3/2007
Modified by SomedaySoon at 1:27 PM 4/3/2007
Modified by SomedaySoon at 2:32 PM 4/3/2007
Sorry for the picture heavy post, by the way.
Oh and by the way, I was wondering if anyone could help me out with some ideas about wire tucking. I have some ideas already about what I want to do, but I'm still a little leary. I was thinking about taking the whole harness and re-wiring it. Any ideas?
Thanks.
-Rafe
Oh and by the way, I was wondering if anyone could help me out with some ideas about wire tucking. I have some ideas already about what I want to do, but I'm still a little leary. I was thinking about taking the whole harness and re-wiring it. Any ideas?
Thanks.
-Rafe
Looks like a neat write up but i cant see the pics bc im at school,subscribed for later!Good job.You just conviced me to do my own swap whenever the time to swap comes.
Thanks man!
What type of swap are you looking at? Let me know and I'll help you out if you need it.
(Glad I could be of inspiration
)
-Rafe
What type of swap are you looking at? Let me know and I'll help you out if you need it.
(Glad I could be of inspiration
)-Rafe
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SomedaySoon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks man!
What type of swap are you looking at? Let me know and I'll help you out if you need it.
(Glad I could be of inspiration
)
-Rafe</TD></TR></TABLE>
Waiting to get a car first...gonna be a few months.I always tought that the swap was sort of hard but i was never too sure how easy it would be for me with no experience.
You just confirmed what i tought was true.
I saw the pics and they look good.
Im still not decided by the engine that i will go for but lets see:
I want an Si hatchback so it should have the d16z6,i plan on working on that but if i feel the need of more power i wont go with the B16-its the same **** in someways,its too overrated.Torqueless wonder.
I want to work on the Z6 tho,its a decent engine for what it is.
B18A/B maybe but i want VTEC and not an LS/VTEC because im not experienced enough to rebuild one reliably but i do know a lot about them.
B18C1 is what I want if i go with a swap,drop a turbo and ill be good.
A B18C/5 might be good but its too expensive,well see how much i have by then.
K20/24 too expensive/too technical to swap so cross that off the list.
I want a great DD so an H/F series might be advantageous however i dont feel like dealing with dented oil pans,increased weight which leads to slightly lower MPG and more understeer. Im not sure if im willing to do the hood lift either...
B18C1 FTW
What type of swap are you looking at? Let me know and I'll help you out if you need it.
(Glad I could be of inspiration
)-Rafe</TD></TR></TABLE>
Waiting to get a car first...gonna be a few months.I always tought that the swap was sort of hard but i was never too sure how easy it would be for me with no experience.
You just confirmed what i tought was true.
I saw the pics and they look good.
Im still not decided by the engine that i will go for but lets see:
I want an Si hatchback so it should have the d16z6,i plan on working on that but if i feel the need of more power i wont go with the B16-its the same **** in someways,its too overrated.Torqueless wonder.
I want to work on the Z6 tho,its a decent engine for what it is.
B18A/B maybe but i want VTEC and not an LS/VTEC because im not experienced enough to rebuild one reliably but i do know a lot about them.
B18C1 is what I want if i go with a swap,drop a turbo and ill be good.
A B18C/5 might be good but its too expensive,well see how much i have by then.
K20/24 too expensive/too technical to swap so cross that off the list.
I want a great DD so an H/F series might be advantageous however i dont feel like dealing with dented oil pans,increased weight which leads to slightly lower MPG and more understeer. Im not sure if im willing to do the hood lift either...
B18C1 FTW
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Felliph3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Waiting to get a car first...gonna be a few months.I always tought that the swap was sort of hard but i was never too sure how easy it would be for me with no experience.
You just confirmed what i tought was true.
I saw the pics and they look good.
Im still not decided by the engine that i will go for but lets see:
I want an Si hatchback so it should have the d16z6,i plan on working on that but if i feel the need of more power i wont go with the B16-its the same **** in someways,its too overrated.Torqueless wonder.
I want to work on the Z6 tho,its a decent engine for what it is.
B18A/B maybe but i want VTEC and not an LS/VTEC because im not experienced enough to rebuild one reliably but i do know a lot about them.
B18C1 is what I want if i go with a swap,drop a turbo and ill be good.
A B18C/5 might be good but its too expensive,well see how much i have by then.
K20/24 too expensive/too technical to swap so cross that off the list.
I want a great DD so an H/F series might be advantageous however i dont feel like dealing with dented oil pans,increased weight which leads to slightly lower MPG and more understeer. Im not sure if im willing to do the hood lift either...
B18C1 FTW
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You completely failed to mention my swap!
B20VTEC FTW!
Awesome torque increase over B16, and with the right head, you've got mad power, and I'm interested in doing an All Motor setup anyway.
Don't doubt yourself on technical ability man, I really don't have much experience either, and if you mess it up, it's just money, you know? Just take your time and be patient and most importantly, don't rush it. (And the right tools help)
If you need help later on once you pick up your ride, definately hit me up if you need anything!
-Rafe
You just confirmed what i tought was true.
I saw the pics and they look good.
Im still not decided by the engine that i will go for but lets see:
I want an Si hatchback so it should have the d16z6,i plan on working on that but if i feel the need of more power i wont go with the B16-its the same **** in someways,its too overrated.Torqueless wonder.
I want to work on the Z6 tho,its a decent engine for what it is.
B18A/B maybe but i want VTEC and not an LS/VTEC because im not experienced enough to rebuild one reliably but i do know a lot about them.
B18C1 is what I want if i go with a swap,drop a turbo and ill be good.
A B18C/5 might be good but its too expensive,well see how much i have by then.
K20/24 too expensive/too technical to swap so cross that off the list.
I want a great DD so an H/F series might be advantageous however i dont feel like dealing with dented oil pans,increased weight which leads to slightly lower MPG and more understeer. Im not sure if im willing to do the hood lift either...
B18C1 FTW
</TD></TR></TABLE>You completely failed to mention my swap!
B20VTEC FTW!
Awesome torque increase over B16, and with the right head, you've got mad power, and I'm interested in doing an All Motor setup anyway.
Don't doubt yourself on technical ability man, I really don't have much experience either, and if you mess it up, it's just money, you know? Just take your time and be patient and most importantly, don't rush it. (And the right tools help)
If you need help later on once you pick up your ride, definately hit me up if you need anything!
-Rafe
Well at least that guy had some nice things to say, maybe I'm just impatient, but anyone else have any opinions or questions or suggestions?
Sorry, I just feel like talking.
-Rafe
Sorry, I just feel like talking.
-Rafe
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Man, I wish I had another driver so whenever I feel I could rip out the motor to rebuild I could do it. Unfortunately, my daily driver is the one I want to rebuild.
You know the funny thing? This is my daily driver.
I was racing an STI and blew her up, and my room-mate just happend to buy a truck around the same time. So he's driving the truck, I got his EK for now.
I was racing an STI and blew her up, and my room-mate just happend to buy a truck around the same time. So he's driving the truck, I got his EK for now.
took us about a hour and a half to take my head off my em1.. didnt blow it up though
good job on the write up
good job on the write up
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SomedaySoon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You know the funny thing? This is my daily driver.
I was racing an STI and blew her up, and my room-mate just happend to buy a truck around the same time. So he's driving the truck, I got his EK for now.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats exactly why i dont want LS/CRV/VTEC....
LOL
Sure Ill hit you up if I ever need anything,if you just wanna talk about cars and anything hit me up too,my sn is Felliph3.
How much torque is that pushing?
I was racing an STI and blew her up, and my room-mate just happend to buy a truck around the same time. So he's driving the truck, I got his EK for now.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Thats exactly why i dont want LS/CRV/VTEC....
LOL
Sure Ill hit you up if I ever need anything,if you just wanna talk about cars and anything hit me up too,my sn is Felliph3.
How much torque is that pushing?
No, no dude. The blew up the B16
The B20 is what's going in now. I just got the head off the B16 this weekend. The motor is getting pulled and new B20 assembled this weekend most likely.
And cool thing man, hit me up whenever.
-Rafe
The B20 is what's going in now. I just got the head off the B16 this weekend. The motor is getting pulled and new B20 assembled this weekend most likely.
And cool thing man, hit me up whenever.
-Rafe
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00 Em1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">took us about a hour and a half to take my head off my em1.. didnt blow it up though
good job on the write up
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, we were also dicking off half the time.
good job on the write up
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah, we were also dicking off half the time.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SomedaySoon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah, we were also dicking off half the time.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha that will always get ya
Yeah, we were also dicking off half the time.
</TD></TR></TABLE>haha that will always get ya
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00 Em1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha that will always get ya
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Word.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Word.
by the way mine project is a simple plan. Single head Vtech with a milled head, with skunk 2 internals. then slap a supercharger on that pupy n its good to go. yup the plan is all morder high compresion.
Sounds like a good idea to me. Can't offer much insight since I'm not a really a single cam guy, but feel free to ask if you have any questions.
Why were you racing an STi in a B16 Civic? Might as well try to pull Corvettes on the highway with a Geo Metro 
Anyhow. The writeup doesn't detail a lot of the important parts of doing this - mainly being careful not to lose dowel pins in the rocker arm assemblies, keeping the head from warping by unbolting it in sequence and stages, etc. It also has a few extraneous steps (why remove the starter wiring?) and could use a few more simple precautions (take the distributor off, for one).
Other than that (and the terrible misspellings) this is a reasonable write-up. I hope you didn't damage anything and wish you luck with your B20VTEC project

Anyhow. The writeup doesn't detail a lot of the important parts of doing this - mainly being careful not to lose dowel pins in the rocker arm assemblies, keeping the head from warping by unbolting it in sequence and stages, etc. It also has a few extraneous steps (why remove the starter wiring?) and could use a few more simple precautions (take the distributor off, for one).
Other than that (and the terrible misspellings) this is a reasonable write-up. I hope you didn't damage anything and wish you luck with your B20VTEC project
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project 98ek »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">by the way mine project is a simple plan. Single head Vtech with a milled head, with skunk 2 internals. then slap a supercharger on that pupy n its good to go. yup the plan is all morder high compresion. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You're an idiot.
You're an idiot.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why were you racing an STi in a B16 Civic? Might as well try to pull Corvettes on the highway with a Geo Metro 
Anyhow. The writeup doesn't detail a lot of the important parts of doing this - mainly being careful not to lose dowel pins in the rocker arm assemblies, keeping the head from warping by unbolting it in sequence and stages, etc. It also has a few extraneous steps (why remove the starter wiring?) and could use a few more simple precautions (take the distributor off, for one).
Other than that (and the terrible misspellings) this is a reasonable write-up. I hope you didn't damage anything and wish you luck with your B20VTEC project
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the compliments and critique man. Just out of curiousity why would I remove the dowel pins on the rockers when all I had to do was remove the cams? Also, what things did I appear to mispell? I didn't notice anything off the top of my head, so just wondering. And thanks for adding about the unbolting in sequence, we didn't because we assumed that the head was already warped from the head gasket blowing, and my apologies for racing a friend for fun to test out his car.
(Also, the starter wiring was removed because I intend to remove all the wiring from the bay soon for paint and tuck. Not sure if it was necessary for the head removal, but mainly was this write-up was written for was not to be a detailed description for the most part of the head removal, but rather, what I personally did for others reference.)
Thanks once again, and not sure what you're rolling in, but good luck with it.
-Rafe

Anyhow. The writeup doesn't detail a lot of the important parts of doing this - mainly being careful not to lose dowel pins in the rocker arm assemblies, keeping the head from warping by unbolting it in sequence and stages, etc. It also has a few extraneous steps (why remove the starter wiring?) and could use a few more simple precautions (take the distributor off, for one).
Other than that (and the terrible misspellings) this is a reasonable write-up. I hope you didn't damage anything and wish you luck with your B20VTEC project
</TD></TR></TABLE>Thanks for the compliments and critique man. Just out of curiousity why would I remove the dowel pins on the rockers when all I had to do was remove the cams? Also, what things did I appear to mispell? I didn't notice anything off the top of my head, so just wondering. And thanks for adding about the unbolting in sequence, we didn't because we assumed that the head was already warped from the head gasket blowing, and my apologies for racing a friend for fun to test out his car.
(Also, the starter wiring was removed because I intend to remove all the wiring from the bay soon for paint and tuck. Not sure if it was necessary for the head removal, but mainly was this write-up was written for was not to be a detailed description for the most part of the head removal, but rather, what I personally did for others reference.)
Thanks once again, and not sure what you're rolling in, but good luck with it.
-Rafe
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You're an idiot.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Also, try not to be so mean man, he was just posting his opinion.
Also, try not to be so mean man, he was just posting his opinion.



